First problem, I have a drain somewhere. If I leave the battery connected it goes dead, and kills the cells. I need to know how to test to find the short.

Second problem, alternator was only putting out 11.5 volts. I replaced it, and the new one is still only putting out 11.5 volts. Any suggestions?

I want to upgrade my engine compartment wiring harness. I want to run electric fans eventually, so I will need maybe 105 amp alternator? What about relays for headlights and such? I really would like to modernize my electrical system. I appreciate any and all suggestions.

Thanks, Kevin

PS, I'll post pics of my current (pun intended) set up ASAP. I think my voltage regulator was bypassed.

One easy way to determine which circuit might be draining your battery, is to first remove the fuse that runs your dome lights and make sure that your key is off, because obviouslly this happens when the key is off. Then remove each fuse, then touch your cable back to the battery, when you quit getting a spark when you touch the cable to the battery, then you know which circuit is draining your battery. This may not be the correct way to check it, but you said you would take any suggestions.

Do you have an internal or externally regulated alternator? If externally regulated, it is easy to set it to full field, where it will put out about 14 volts.

Disconnect the ground, power, and field/resistance wires. Run a jumper from the field termainal (marked F on the back of the alternator) to the power terminal. start the engine and take a voltage reading at the power terminal. If you still have 11.5 volts, the alternator is not working. If it goes up to 14 or so your alt is ok and your reg has likely taken a dump on you.

Devin

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=parasitic+battery+drain&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=

Do you have an internal or externally regulated alternator? If externally regulated, it is easy to set it to full field, where it will put out about 14 volts.

Devin

I believe the alternator is internally regulated, and the VR has been bypassed. Any other suggestions?

Thanks for that link Dean. I'll check it out this weekend.

What alternator would you recommend for electric fans?

ttt

onther way to check for battery drain is disconnect negitive battery cable hook 12 volt test light between negitive battery post and negitive battery cable if there is a drain the light will light dim(make sure door is not open and dome light on) if light is on there is a drain now start pulling fuses and see if light goes out. also if fuses tast good diconnect altenator power wire. common drains i have found are defective radios and bad altenators. thanks Mike

Thanks Mike. Any guesses why the alt is only putting out 11.5V ?

The alternator will only put out about 1.5 - 2 volts more then the battery voltage the regulator sees, check what the battery charge is first.

kevin ........couple of things that KILL more battery's then anything else are....
do you have an alarm ?? & do you let the car sit for weeks at a time with it on ??

start by checking the battery voltage with it turned off .... good battery should be 12.8-13.5

without starting car turn on headlights voltage should stay 12.3-12.8 if your dropping into the 11 volt range your battery needs replacement .....more then likely has a dead cell check with a hydrometer ... simple CHEAP little tube with balls that float the more that float the better off that cell is charged

then start car ....... voltage should climb to 13.8-14.5 if you don't get a increase in voltage you have a charging problem somewhere......

also if you have LESS voltage with the car running then when it was stopped .... your running a total loss system as its not charging at all ... an just running on the battery

Thanks Mark, I'll get a hydrometer and check it out.

OK, any suggestions for upgrades to wiring harness and such? It is almost 40 y/o and looks to be hacked/spliced to death.

easiest way out ........ M&H or American Autowire both are plug & play :D

as for any major current draws a couple of relays run off the power wire at the horn relay will work for anything short of a 1000 watts stereo ;)

Edit: it all depends on what you're trying to run !! but if your mostly stock except for maybe electric fans run off the earlier mentioned relays about the only up grade that should be needed ( other then GOOD harness's) is the Alternator of simular style that you have only off an AC power acc loaded car ..... any good re builder can load the stock 37 amp case for 75 amps & no one but you'll know its not stock ...
Halogen headlight replacements bulbs & new harness you'll think your driving a totally different car at night :thumbsup:

Thanks Mark. :thumbsup: