Hey guys, I'm in the market for some new slicks and I seem to remember hearing/reading that some were using Hoosier radial slicks with good success. I picked up a used set of 30x9's that I tried out on Saturday and was a little suprised at how bad they spun. Admittedly, they are used, and I didn't get the chance to play around with tire pressure, but I've never spun as bad as I did on Sat. On the video, I can clearly see them spinning 4-5 turns before the car really even moves. I had 16 lbs of air in them... was that too high? I talked with a few racers who are using this very same tire and they all said pretty much the same thing... they hook and handle great but they're not as consistent as bias plys. Also, if they start to spin they don't recover as quickly.

I do plan on buying new tires anyway so I guess my question really is - Is it worth trying a new set of radial slicks or should I stick with good old-fashioned bias plys?

Any recommendations are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

radial slicks should NOT be tuned like a bias ply slick, and do not respond to the same changes.

Typically use more air, and need to be under a finely tuned suspension.

My recommendation is Bias Ply, but in ethier case you need to be on a track that is prepped well, and you will find that, that is not the case at LVD.
Instead, you may consider Maple Grove, Englishtown or Atco raceway....on the saturday/sunday bracket schedual, and not the test and tune days.

Thanks for your response Brian. I do know that the radials require more air and I did start with 18 lbs. before dropping them to 16. As far as tracks and track conditions... I hear you but I have to deal with what's available to me. I'm only a "once in a while" racer and lousy track conditions is usually a forgone conclusion. I'm not asking for forgiveness that I'm not as hardcore as other on this site - I'm just working with what I have.

Sounds like the bias plys are going to be more forgiving in my particular case.

Are radial slicks ok to use with radial front tires? Am I really doing myself and others a dangerous disservice when I use ET streets with my regular front radials on?
and I thought LVD had good track prep.. it was like god's gift when I got there after going to NED all the time..

Matt

10 sec 69...

I have been running the 30x10.5R Hoosier Radial Slick since the start of last season. They were recommended by a buddy of mine in stock elimination div 7. I can tell you that my car ran a best of 6.58 @ 103.05 1/8 mile with them, and last race it ran 6.62 @ 102.5 in 90 some degree weather. I have been told by many that the radial will run quicker than the bias in a side to side comparison, however I too have had problems all season trying to run consisent.

I think with the power that both you and I are putting out, personally I think we should run bias tires. When these slicks are worn out, I will be replacing them with bias ply slicks to try and improve my traction and consistency.

BTW, I run my at 16# any higher and lower and it won't hook until third gear. Also I marked them and noticed that they have moved about 1-1.5" on the rim, so I also will be screwing them to the rim ( I think this occured on the runs that the tire acutally hooked up, although hooking with them is extrememly un upredictable).

Just fyi.

Radials are quicker because they don't flex as much as the bias ply. Also they are more inconsisitent because they dont flex as much as the bias ply which makes them more tempermental(bad speller).

Chevy_69_chevelle (sorry i forgot your name) If your tires are spinning on the rim i would go ahead and screw them in. One it will make it more consistent but for safety reasons also. a friend of mine damaged a bead because his wheel was spinning in the his wheel and he didnt want to put screws in his new wheels. well needless to say he had to put new body panels on his car, and he ended up destroying his new wheels too.

Todd

I will be screwing to the rim before the next race, what I planned on doing (which is what my G/SA friend did) was just screw on the inside that way you don't see the screws, but it still holds.

I run 20psi in my radial slicks. I've screwed one set of slicks and I'll never do it again,they leak and no I don't run tubes. I have always spun the wheel inside the tire, if you call moving about 1" per race spinning the wheel. I've never had a problem,the bead looks fine and this is with 1 set of Hoosier slicks, 1 set of M/T's, and 2 sets of drag radials, don't know how you tear up the bead turning the wheel inside the tire :confused: unless it had been previously screwed and there are burrs on the rim? Yeah I know,,,I'm reviving an old post, but coincides with a current post.

A buddy of mine is running the American Racer tires (ol' McCreary's) and 11.06 1/4 with a 1.6X 60' pulling the front wheels about 6" or so. So I bought a pair and hope to see 1.7's or 8's at least. Tires are mounted and have tubes. On the street (test drive around the block) they spun very easy. Point I'm trying to make is no heat,no stick.

My uncle runs a dune buggy with 2lbs of air in his rear tires ( 38.5X15 on a steel rim) and no screws. They do this in the mountains and has never had one come off the rim. So i asked how does that work.

Here's the tip,

he said to mount the tire on the rim, paint the inside lip( bead) of the rim till it's dripping wet with paint ( clear would probably be the best choice for us) then air them up and let them set a couple of days with a little extra air in them. He said they tear the tire apart when they take them off to replace them.

Has anyone else ever heard of this ?