What is the easiest way to kill a battery that is just making the load test? When I test my 680 CCA battery @ 50 AMP it just makes the OK range. The place where I bought the Battery tested it and their load tester just tells them good or bad so naturally it says it is good even when it won't crank the car over when it is hot. It whirls right over when I jump start it. I want to kill it so the prorate will still be worth something.

Todd.

If you can remove the cell caps you can charge it up real good to drive all the acid from the plates, back into the electrolyte, then dump out the electrolyte and refill it with water.

Sounds like either the load test is false or the battery is OK.

I forgot to add the battery is 4 years old and has a 84 month warranty so it is still worth something if prorated.

Todd.

If you dont want to chance draing out the acid somewhere it should be and adding water to kill the battery you can dump baking soda into the electrolite a little at a time which neutalizes the acid rendering the battery toast shortly after that.

It will foam up while doing this so be ready for it and have the battery outside somewhere thats safe so you can wash away the neutralized acid with a garden hose if some foam overspills the battery when you add the baking soada. But anything that does overspill with ne neutralized by the baking soad so you should be ok.

But again,slow and easy with the baking soda.

BTW,i always suggest spending a few more $ to get a larger /higher CCA battery like 800+CCC(not CA) so when they are 3-4 yrs old lokes your is and down some on cranking power/amps they cant still do the job in most cases so you dont have to go thru what your experiencing at this time.

If you can kill the battery and get the prorate refund put that towards a higher CCA battery this time arround,its well worth the additional $20 IMHO.

Lastly,it could be a cumulative thing going on here too meaning that yes the battery is marginal on cranking power when hot but a lsightly tires starter esp one without a heas shiedld can also add to this issue. That would be why when it wont spin over very well/fast when hot and you jump it that when the starter gets hit with 2x the amps/cranking power that also helps it spin over better too.

So a new stronger CCA battery will definately help but dont be surprised if once in a while or maybe even a yr or 2 down the road when the new batteries cranking power power starts to drop some that the hot start issue shows its ugly head again due being heat damaged,being tired/worn out ,or it's not a hi trq starter when its needed for your setup.

hows the alt ouput is it a 37 amp low output alt ? If so they can be an issue at times esp if you do a lot ofstart/stops/restarts in your driving and the lower amp alts cant recharge the battery as fast as it needs to be,thats where a stronger 55-61 amp alt can help out some.

Scott

most parts joints just load test them. i would park nearby and simply leave the lights on and kill it. you'll need to have a jump but drive it no more than a block to the store and shut it off. when they load test it then it wil be under the minumum.

Or, you can avoid being dishonest and simply ante up for a new battery and call it good if you want a new battery.

More importantly though, if the battery checks out and it is hard to start when it is warm, why assume it is the battery? You more than likely have a wiring, alternator and/or starter issue, not a battery issue.

1. make sure the battery cable connections at the battery and at the block and starter are clean and solid.
2. make sure the engine/starter has a good ground and that the battery has a good ground to the engine.
3. have your starter checked.
4. have your alternator checked.

The same parts store can probably check your starter and alternator for you. The starter on my truck began grinding on the flywheel and then turning slower and slower when hot. I tried heat shields and other tricks like that, finally turned out that the starter had a partial internal short that only showed up when the starter was hot. I had previously been certain it was a failing battery, the testing at the parts store showed otherwise. A new starter later and it starts a WHOLE lot better than it ever has. Apparently that starter was questionable ever since I installed it years before.

you can avoid being dishonest

ouch!

Guy's,very good point with the honesty thing but he said the batery tested margianl and he is faced with an 84month warrentee battetry thats somewhat wekaened,what to do?

Anyway,i did also mentoned the fact it could also be a weak alt or starter collectively adding to the issues along with not a bad battery but one thats weakened some on cranking amps as would be expected with 4 yrs of age all again "Collectively" causing the problem.

I would have the alt output checked and starter draw in amps checked and install a starter heat shield if not already running one.

Scott

The question is not about being honest. The battery is obviously at the breaking point and is performing at a level at the bottom of the 500 amp range. If I wanted a 500 amp battery I would have bought one but I needed the higher amps and expect it to perform at a level needed to crank the old girl over. Also the starter and cables are 6 years old, both were brand new and the car gets out of the garage about 4 times a year for shows and the occasional cruise around the block so I would guess both have just a few months worth of use at the most. The cables get disconnected when the car is parked and have zero corrosion. I'll use the soda method this weekend and guess what? I won't loose any sleep over it. One other thing, the alternator is a 12si 94 amp and was installed new 2 years ago new and tests great with every possible draw on it including lights, brights, cooling fan and radio on.

Thanks

Yeh,since the alt is high output and working wellits likely the battery and maybe outside chance the starter in getting a ittl tired too but i dont know that for a fact.

Food for thought,i use a battery maintainer that costs approx $20,1st battery lasted 13 yrs and 2nd one lasted 12 yrs. They both started my bbc 396 with just under 10:0 comp running 18 deg base timing when it was hot right up untill the 13 & 12 yr ends of their life,they were both older gen Sears Diehards.

It very importatnt to keep the batteries up to full charge and you taking the car out 4x-5x yrly doesnt cut it for sure esp if you dont charge it fully at least 1x every 1-2 months.

This can also lead to starting issues when you leave the garage with a partially discharged battery form sitting long periods with no charging which leads to premature battery failure due to plate sulfation. Yes,even if the battery is substantially discharged it can still start the motor ok when cold and seem like its fine when its really down 50% when it comes to avail cranking amps which is key when trying to start a hot motor esp with a heat soaked starter if not running a starter heat shield so keep this in mind too.

Then i bought a repop Delco R59 after the 2nd battery went bad and the repop R59 is already showing signs of going south after only 5yrs with still using the manitainer,looks great but will not be going the 12-13yr distance this time arround,thats for sure.

I have owned the car for 30+ yrs.

Let us know how you make out with the new battery,maybe for as few additional $ you could get a higher CCA battery this time arround like 800+CCA.

Scott

The question is not about being honest.

Apparently not since you are asking for help on how specifically destroy a battery so you can get a new one via the prorated warranty. Let's say you paid $65 for the battery new, if it is 4 years old on a 7 year warranty and the prorating is straight across the board you will take advantage of the parts store to the tune of just under $28. Besides, sounds like you need a larger battery anyway and/or you have other system issues as it is. Just because the car sits a lot doesn't mean the other parts in the system can't be at fault.

I'd still venture a guess your real mechanical issue lies somewhere other than with the battery. Did you fully charge the battery before testing it? Have you ever fully charged the battery? I'm talking about charging it with a charger and not about running the car. The alterator was not designed to charge the battery so don't rely on the alternator to charge the thing. I've yet to see a hot start problem that ever ultimately had anything to do with the battery.

"...alterator was not designed to charge the battery..."

I'd have to agree with the addition that the alt is intended to maintain a charge provided the car is driven regularly/often and long enough. The alt can also recharge after starting the car if driven enough.

Most any battery will fade away if it isn't kept charged, overcharged, etc. and they tend to fade after about 4 years.

I will be the first to admit that I neglect the battery and only charge it with the wall charger about once a year when I think about it or the starter cranks slow.

Rich,i respectfully disagree with you on your statement :

" I've yet to see a hot start problem that ever ultimately had anything to do with the battery."

I have been working on sbc/bbc and all other gm muscle cars for over 37yrs and having a good strong frecs high cranking amp battery is very inportant to avoiding/fixing hot start issues with GM V8's . Having a tired or cheap lower cranking output battery can cause hot start issues even when all else in good cond up to shuff sort of speak.

But as you illude to also having a good alt ,good hi trq starter with heat shield,good clean connetctions in the entire elctrical starting /charging/ground systems is just as important as having a good powerfull battery is for trouble free hot starts.

It's a collective thing and if 1 or more of the starting system parts in the older design gm starting system isnt up to snuff like for ex the battery then you can have hot start issues.

But at times its not just the battery as it can also be a weakening of the starter or a neglected battery with no charging over long periods of time inbetween uses thats the issue too.

scott

Given the age of the battery and that it is fading, I would simply buy a new one.

I have found over the years, that the time spent testing, etc, is wasted. I replaced the starter, wiring, relay, alternator and regulator once in 1992 based on Autozone saying my battery was fine. Yep, the battery was dead...

I usually go to Autozone, drop the old one, get the new one, and tell them they can test the old one after I leave if they want to. Otherwise you will keep doing what you are doing, chasing a problem that may or may not involve a marginal battery.

That said, I am convinced, based on the advise of a friend who is a topnotch electrical engineer, that the battery maintainers/chargers, used regularly, are well worth it to prevent this sort of problem. He has a 67 Malibu with a stout 383, etc, that always starts.

I have not seen one for cars, but for some batteries they make dischargers so you can properly cycle and charge them...

Pro rated replacements are based on the FULL list price of the battery. In some cases it will be almost as much as purchasing a new battery with the discount price. Buy an Optima battery, about $140 most places. The initial price isn't nearly as high when you consider the life of one. I am still using one purchased in 1999. I have never gotten less then 7 years from one. Your cables will not corrode, it never needs checked or cleaned. Just secure it to the tray, hook up the cables and your done for years.
There are dealers that get blemished ones from time to time. I have purchsed them in Tucson for $110. Fully functional and wit a warranty.

Well I ended up using this battery in my truck to replace the 7 year old original battery so now I will buy an Optima battery and be done with it.

:thumbsup:

Picked up the new Optima today, and this battery makes the old one seem like a 6 volt. After the engine is hot it cranks right over with the lights, brights and electric fan going....SWEET!

Todd.

Well I ended up using this battery in my truck to replace the 7 year old original battery so now I will buy an Optima battery and be done with it.

Good move, Todd. I was hoping your integrity was worth more than the cost of a new battery. For those offering advice on how to kill the old one, shame on you:sad: