First rebuild is it normal to have to tap a valve out of the heads ? all but two valve came out with a little twisting.Hand to tap it out using a slim long bolt and lite hammer blows.

After removing the springs found shims under them on the heads ,Question im installing new spring,retainer,locks do i remove them or leave them in ?

How do you clean rust and carbon buildup off valves (out of heads) ?

Is it normal to have little chips of on the valve tips ?

Should the plastic cups on the exh. side and the rubber/metal valve seal be change while im redoing them ? I'm already changing the rubber O-rings ?

Thank you to all in advance for your help and a continued thanks to other who have helped me in the past

Don't tap the valves out of the heads with a hammer UNLESS you are planning to replace the valve guides.

On a high-mileage engine, the top edge of the valve retainer groove area gets mushroomed out, making it too large to go through the guide. If you drive it through the guide, it puts gouges in the guide which leads directly to high oil consumption in the new engine, UNLESS you replace the guides.

The correct way to remove the valves would be to remove the springs and retainers first. Then, use a small fine-cut flat file, and carefully file down the mushroomed area till the valve will slide out without hammering.

Randy

If you have chips on the valve tips, (I assume you mean the end that the rocker contacts) you need new valves. That also means a valve job. If they are going to the machine shop anyway, see if you need valve guides. if you hammered out valves, you will. Not bronze inserts unless you don't plan on having the heads a long time, they don't last as long. BB heads that have guides replaced should be pressure tested. A smaller guide can be used that does not go into the water jacket, but if they used the big guide you need a pressure test. Replace the seals, they are cheap. Now that the head is nearly rebuilt, better get new springs.....

I have no Idea what this work is worth as I always had the right friends in the past, or did the machining myself at work, but it seems the opinion nowdays is that if you are going to spend the money to rebuild stock heads, for the same price or a little more you can get aftermarket heads already built. I would look into that before spending any $$ on machining.

Did you remove the retainers/keepers with a hammer & socket? While effective often when doing this the retainer will nic the stem.
Sounds like your ready for some head work, the shop that does this will glass bead the ports and the valves IF they are reusable

I had two valve on cyl 7 that wouldn't come out :mad: after i removed the spring retainers and o ring. So i used a slim bolt with tape around it bottom and side and lightly tapped the top of the valves to remove them from the head they stopped about 1/4 under the guides when i had to tap them.There are no engine real shop that i know of around here :( its rice rocket central :confused: , i already have the gasket to put it together. What do you thing are my chances to put it back together and it work ( not smoke that bad)? Also does anyone know if i use new springs ,retainers,o ring do i need to leave the head shims in place ? or are they for the old spring so remove them .Sorry the message is so long but im broke the other option are a long wait for rebuilt or aftermarket heads. The one valve has little chips on its edge about the width of a piece of rice.

those heads sound like they are beat along with the valves. I would just keep an eye for a set of rebuilt or aftermarket heads