This guy built a TIG welder out of an alternator for under 100 dollars. And it works :eek: :eek: graemlins/beers.gif

I just wanted you guys to see this, he shows a picture of a weld he laid on some stainless steel piping:
Homebuilt TIG welder (http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=519bf5dc71996b9a8dedef8442045ea2&threadid=8872&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

dude that is so awsome i may see if i can round that stuff up and make one. i wonder if any kind of ol working alternator will work?? :confused: only thing is i dunno how to use a TIG but i can Acetaline and oxy weld with balin wire.... so i ight be able to TIG and i can MIG so i might be able to do that but that weld that guy laid that was some kinda pretty ill tell u that ;) smile.gif thanx for postin that

Hmmmm.....

I have a 5hp (output) 3-phase VFD at my disposal. It has several control methods available. It's designed to run AC motors at variable speeds. I wonder if I could rig it to drive a TIG torch.....

I dont think the VFD will work...it depends on motor feed back to regulate frequency...you might be able to trick it though....hmmm let me think

That's exactly what I'm trying to figure out, how to trick it. In open loop it depends on V/F or Flux Vector control. And it's very sensitive to any current imbalance between phases. So I'd have to use all three phases equally first of all.

I'm probably better off just buying an inverter TIG unit from Kraze Arc. After all, welding aluminum is the main reason I want a tig.

If this method was the way to go, wouldn't everybody be doing it?

But really, if you run that alternator at 130A for any lengthy period of time, it will burn out. They're not made to run full capacity for that long. Also, I like to have the foot pedal to make the welds nicer.

yeah but does it have phase control and arc frequency settings. its pretty cool though.

way over my head to build that....but that is awesome! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Well if you read through those 7 long pages, the guy said after welding he said the alternator was warm but no warmer than what it owuld be after running in a car. And hell if your gonna build a TIG welder why not add some fans to cool the alternator off. I know thats what im gonna do. Im thinkng about building one to handle my aluminum and then let my hobart 175(coming in soon) do all the steel.

My plans are to use 2 140amp alternators with hopefully my friends 20 hp cratfsman V-twin mower motor. :D Overkill maybe... but they pay someone to do thier yard anyways and all it needs is cleaning up and spark plugs. Then devise a cooling system for the alternators. Don't know whether to run a push or pull im thinking pull or if i really get bored devise some sort of water cooled setup. :eek: graemlins/clonk.gif but highly doubt that. That would just be for ****s and giggles. Can't decide whther to run to 12 volt batteries or one. Im gonna try and talk to fast68 over on turbomustangs.com and see what he has to say.

I read that part about the alternators getting warm.

But when running a car, how do you know if the alternator is warm because of it's own work, or because of the heat in the engine compartment? My guess says its warm from the ambient heat, not because it's charging. In that TIG welding setup, those diodes will get HOT. Very hot, hot enough to where they wont last long.

Why not let your Hobart 175 do the aluminum also? The conversion is cheap and does well if you know how to use it (if you know how to TIG, you can weld aluminum with the Hobart).

Wow....just goes to show that cobbling can be an art form too. Thats cool

Look for big diesel truck alternators. They're designed for continuous high output.

Silver69Camaro, I'm getting ready to get a Miller 172. Can it TIG also? Hobart parts are slim here so I decided to spend more and get a Miller.
I should splurge and get the 185, but it take 2 people to load into a truck.

When converting the MIG, you aren't actually converting it to a TIG welder. It's still a MIG, but you're just able to weld aluminum. Usually limited to 1/8" thick or so. I don't really have any specific info about the 172 or the 180, better call a dealer (a knowledgable one).

Scott, what's the duty cycle on the 172 vs the 180? Buy the unit with the higher duty cycle, that would make you much happier. Is the 180 the stand-alone power supply that requires the feeder?

The 185 is about 100lbs heavier than the 172. Or coincidently 185 lbs. Looks like a king size 130.
172 has a 30% DC IIRC & 20A 220v.
185 is at least 60% I think & 30A 220v, but about $1200 vs $720ish. The Hobart 180 I've seen for about $1000.
The 185 is what I've seen in a lot of lite industrial fab shops. I rarely weld more that 1/8" plate at home. I don't really like the 130a series weld quality. And it usually gets turned up all the way. So I thought a 172 might be a little better. The 185 takes up a lot of floor space too. While I have a 3 car garage, it has 3 cars in it.

I had this saved a time ago. Maybe something for you home "cobblers". Its a home made spotwelder.

I had this saved a time ago. Maybe something for you home "cobblers". Its a home made spotwelder.

Home Made Spot Welder (http://www.5bears.com/welder.htm)

Wow, that's straight up my junkyard alley.

Joe