I recently purchased a big block #3855962, it did not come with heads nor intake manifold. I have been looking for heads and an intake manifold. The confusion comes with oval/rect heads or intake ?? what should I be looking for. The block is a 1966 vintage and I would like to go back to factory type heads and intake. I have found heads #3872702 [oval] will they work or should I be looking for different heads. Please excuse my ignorance, I know this is the answer place. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Rudy

Is there a quality difference between a 3855962 and a 3855961 block

Thanks Again:confused:

The "962" block should be a 4 bolt main unit. It was used in the high performance 396 lineup. The "961" is a 2 bolt block used in the "other" options. As to which heads to use, its totally up to you. Lots of people swear by the oval port heads and some say the rectangular port heads are best. The block was probably paired with rectangular heads when it was in the original car. The 'pad' ID will verify. Its located on the passenger side, top, right in front of the head mounting surface. Post the ID (It will be something like T0321EL) (example only) This will tell you how it left the factory and if you want it period correct, then you'll know which heads to use. Just know that there are LOTS of aftermarket stuff that will give you a LOT more power.

962 blocks were 4-bolt, super thick cylinder walls
961 s were mostly 2-bolt, some 4-bolt
both came with steel crankshafts.

The 962s (edit: and all BBCs for that matter) will accept either a rect port or oval port head casting.

The 962 cam in some 360 horse and most 375 horse engines.
So technically, the 702 heads would be correct for one version, the 360 horse engine.
I believe 858 is the correct casting number for 396/375 horse engines with rect ports.

What is the casting date of the block? look for a code like G108 (JUL 10 68)
What is stamped onto the pad, passenger side for the engine build date and application suffix code? Should say something like T0115EF
T=Tonawanda 01 JAN 15=15th EF 396 3 or 4 speed 360 horse

Are you trying to make a period correct engine for a particular vehicle?
If so, see what the engine it was by getting the numbers then go from there
Also, depends on what YOU want to do with it. For a street engine or even most bracket engines, with a 396, the oval intake runners are better sized for a 396

Damn, Dave beat me to posting!

the casting # TI204EJ ,any more info from these # would be helpful, I would like period correct its going in a 66 convertible, to be a cloned SS

Thanks again
Rudy

That is a engine build date stamp and suffix code
Build is Tonawanda, DEC 04, apparently 1965 (need the casting date still)
Suffix of EJ is 396/360 horse 3 or 4 speed, hi perf Holley
3866948 Iron Holley-type hi rise intake is appropriate
The factory cam is the 'hyd hi-perf' cam which in my opinion is a POS.
Look elsewhere for a cam

Edit:
As this is a 1966 block, you will have to use the special cam bearings for 65/66 BBC engine blocks and have a fully grooved rear cam journal

Edit:
Look here, just what ya need it seems....
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241278

I have seen bare 962 blocks go for very big bucks($3k+),i believe its becasue its the correct casting id for the late 65 vett's with the 396/425hp & also the fact that thet 962 block can usually be bored to 427 cid.

Scott

I bought the 962 block and a 10 bolt 66 chevelle rearend at a garage sale, I was the only person that showed any interest in theses two items and he wanted to get rid of them, he was moving. I had to pay the outragous some of $200.00 for both items, you never know what you can find at garage sales !!!!!!!!

The EJ is the 396/369hp L34.
The 3872702 heads are correct 1966, 98cc Oval port used on the L-34.. (they are a pretty good head)

Now you just need to find the correct 3866948, 66 L34 intake.. (any BB oval port intake will work) But with your luck ($200, 962 block and a 10 bolt 66 chevelle rearend) You should have no problem finding the intake.....LOL

I bought the 962 block and a 10 bolt 66 chevelle rearend at a garage sale, I was the only person that showed any interest in theses two items and he wanted to get rid of them, he was moving. I had to pay the outragous some of $200.00 for both items, you never know what you can find at garage sales !!!!!!!!

I go to every estate sale 1-3 per weekend...
Got a box with a Chevy V-8 points distributor and some other stuff for $1
I hope to find some 'real' engine parts soon this way
After seeing what "oldtimeparts" got for peanuts, I'll be checking garage sales too!!!! :thumbsup:

Pay close attention to what George (kettbo) posted. If this isn't done right the engine will have to be pulled and rear cam bearing fixed. There is no substitute for the crooved cam and the rear cam bearing being installed correctly. There's not many guys out there working in shops who are hip to this deal.

since it isn't really a "real" ss to begin with, then why not throw some modern aluminum heads on it and paint them orange to make them look stock to most people that look at it? supplement that with a modern cam and something like a Performer RPM intake painted orange with all the markings ground off.

Derrick,

With due respect, I disagree on the Aftermarket Aluminum heads.
1. Cost
2. Some guys like the old school stuff and for this application, cruizin in a ragtop, certainly sufficient street power with 396 and 702 ovals
3. In addition to the cost, why recommend aftermarket heads for street cars? I did not see DRAG, RACE, etc posted and he seems tickled pink on his 10-bolt. Consider if you will the archecture of these aftermarket Aluminum BBC heads. Bigger valves for sure, bigger ports...most are right at home with built 454s, 489s, 502... All this is well and dandy if making a drag car, big cam, way lotta gear with a 396 ....but on these street 396, you actually need modest-sized ports, standard size valves, flow under .500" so your engine makes a lotta torque

OTOH, I do think the 40-something year old cast iron 396 intake has been superceeded by the RPM technology. Plus save a buncha weight on the front end. I figure the difference to be 25 horse / 25 ft lbs torque on that intake swap (so long as the car has headers).

Lots of cam choices out there but I'd need his trans type, converter info, gearing, exhaust info and a few other things before recommending a particular grind. Some of the cam grinders will cut/groove the rear journal if you order from the manufacturer.

I have seen bare 962 blocks go for very big bucks($3k+),i believe its becasue its the correct casting id for the late 65 vett's with the 396/425hp & also the fact that thet 962 block can usually be bored to 427 cid.

Scott

I have a sweet 962 block that is bored to a 427 bore and used in a drag car. was run in a 65 chevelle as 396 but 427 cubes now and 12 1/2 to 1 comp.

I agree with Derrick on the part of why worry about making a "clone" alomst original?
Nothing wrong with a clone, mine is just that but its like having almost matching numbers which the purpose of is to prove that a car is unmolested and it has been.
As for aluminum heads, if you can afford them I think its worthwhile, I have them but did not paint them