ok ok im opening up some options here are my ideas....

350 10 to 1 comp
dart 215cc 64cc 2.05/1.60 valves 1.437 dual valve springs angle plug
vic jr intake
speed deman 750 cfm carb
comp magnum 292h 244 dur. .501" lift
1.5 harland sharp roller rockers
B&M 2400 holeshot convertor
quick fuel 140+ gph elec fuel pump
elec fan
3.55 posi 10 bolt

what kinda Hp and torque and ET estemations do yall think i should look for

I would swap out the Victor Jr intake for a dual plane like the Air-gap. With a 2,400 stall you would probably be better off with a little less head - or conversely you could go higher on the stall with those heads. If it were me I would run a good mechanical fuel pump and a clutch fan setup in place of the electric parts and use the leftover money for something else.

You will find people "guessing" all over the place on power. let me instead suggest that you simply take it to the ultimate dyno, the dragstrip, and collect some low/mid 13 second time slips smile.gif

Thomas

Mr. McFast:(name?) I'll guess 432 hp with proper tuning,and 425 lb. ft. of torque.The hp will be in at 6100,while the torque will be at 4500 or so..Should run the quarter in a properly set up '69 Chevelle at 13.6,assuming a full steel body.I'll be honest,these are not estimates from a computer dyno,but from the gut.I feel the simulators are a waste of money and time.Take it to the strip! Steve

Too much cam and too much head, especially for that converter and gears. But then again, u might want a screamer, which then i'd suggest going with a solid lifter cam.

With that cam,I'd stick with the Victor Jr. intake,but go up in stall to 3000 or even 3500.Otherwise,the RPM is your best bet. Steve

so what would my et be like witha 3000 stall.....
what about with 3.73s in the rear.....the reason i want a elec fuel pump is that as soon as i click the ignition switch ill have fuel in the carb and have a quick start cause it seems like the mech pump i got now it takes it gfor ever to start the motor

the reason i want an elec fan is its a cheap HP with some use too as itll cool better also....

id really like to stay away from the the soid cam cause having to run the lash and all that extra work but.....id like to dig at least into the high 12s but if a soild is what it takes than i guess thatd have todo ;)

this anit gonna be a daily driver just a WEEKEND WARRIOR! :D :cool:

Mr. McFast; Mid thirteens are pretty respectable.If you want twelves,my best advice is to stroke it to a 378 or 383.Other than that,I can't see getting into the twelves realistically with your combo.The switch to a higher stall converter would be a big start,and with that cam,I'd recommend 3500 stall.If tuned right,you could reach low 13's.As mentioned in another reply,the Performer RPM manifold might benifit you,but I'm not sure it would be substantial with a converter change. Steve

what kinda 1/8th mile would i be looking at with the 3000 stall and 3.73s? we dont have a 1/4 strip that isnt a 3hr drive but we got a 1/8th about 45mins away tho

3,000 stall, 3.73's and a solid lifter cam - now that would be a better contender in the weekend warrior battles!

My mechanical fuel pump 496 starts up INSTANTLY. If yours doesn't, and the pump is good and the ignition is good, then it will be a carb related issue. I'll bet that if you were to just install the electric fuel pump now that you would find your hard starting problem remains. I sold one of my farm '67 ElCaminos to a friend at Christmas. It was an amazingly stock 327, Rochester Q-jet, original points distributor, etc. With just one pump on the accelerator, it too started instantly, no matter what the weather. My buddy put a beautiful ceramic Edelbrock Performer intake on it - now it starts hard. His girlfriend complained how hard it was to start, so I looked at it. In his manifold update he deleted the choke thermostat because the new manifold had no provision for this kind of choke - bad move on his part, because a proper choke is needed for easy starts. If you have a bad choke thermostat, or missing choke, your engine will be hard to start no matter the fuel pump style.

A fan clutch setup is within just a couple of hp to a proper electric fan - and a fan clutch fan with a shroud will pull MORE air even at low engine rpm's vs an electric fan. A cheap single electric fan is easily less than $100, a proper twin electric fan+wiring+relays+switches ranges from ~ $300 to $500. To get airflow similar to a fan clutch fan out of an electric fan you must use twin electric fans - any idea how much of alternator hp drag it is to draw 40-50 amps to power up street friendly (read that as large airflow) twin electric fans?

Thomas

P.S. Have fun and do it your way whatever that ends up being!

Way too much cam and not enough gear. If you insist on running that engine combo, change the gears to 4.10 minimum. On a small block motor set up the way you have it, I would personally go to 4.56 gears. You can squeeze by with the 2400 converter with the much larger gears, although a 3000 converter would be better. The last small block I ran (other than the LT1 in the '94 Firebird we have) was in a '73 Vette. 10.0/1 355 CI motor w/ 350-350HP cam(224/234@ ,050), 2400 converter and 3.73's. Car ran a 13.90. Came out of the hole real hard. That car could have used 4.10's to get it through the traps correctly. With a 244@ .050 intake duration, you should have a 7000 rpm motor (assuming your lifters will still function at that rpm). 7000 RPM is a 4.56 geared combo. As a comparison, I run a 2800 converter behind a 408BBC with 3.73's and a 226@.050 cam. Don't bother buying any new engine parts until you change the rear ratio.

Good luck.

The heads are too big go with a 200cc port. With 64cc chambers and flat top pistons, the SCR is about 10.2:1. At this CR I'd recommend a cam with about 276º advertised on a 110 LSA. If you tighten up the LSA to 108, you can run a 280 cam. With either of these cam an RPM manifold would be better. If you want the 292 cam, you should raise the CR to 11:1. This would require a 3000-3500 convertor and more gear to work best. In any case 215cc ports are too big for a 350, unless you wind it to 8000 rpm.

how about the comp magnumn 280H 230 duration and .480" lift

and the dart 200cc 64cc 2.02 1.60 valves 1.250 single valve springs and is a straight plug head

and a rpm intake

.......then how much HP

this is one of those OPEN MOUTH INSERT FOOT DEALS :D graemlins/clonk.gif

Drop the cam back even further to 220 - 224 (max) @ .050.

Weekend warrior... hydraulic cam...?

Slap in a solid cam in there, adjust the lash once or twice a year, and drive the hell out of it on the weekends.

I think you need either a smaller cam with a dual plane manifold, 200cc or less heads, numerically higher gears, and a higher stall or...

More compression, same cam (or a solid one), a lot more gearing, and a lot more stall... Even then I think the 215cc heads are too big... and will a 2.05" intake valve be shrouded in a 4" bore? :confused:

Either way, to get into the low 13s or high 12s with a 350, you'll need more gear and more stall.

EDIT: Of course, you could tame it down for the street and use the bottle at the track... ;)

Originally posted by GRN69CHV:
Drop the cam back even further to 220 - 224 (max) @ .050. Be careful about going smaller than I recommended, you could end up with a detonation prone engine.

aight there is a guy here in town had a 72 nova 355 12:1 comp or so and like a 525" lift hyd roller makes about 450 HP and has like a 2800 stall and a set of 3.31s i want to be able to hang with him he hasnt took his car to the track but its just a weekend warrior pretty fast....it friggin screams threw the dumped 3 inch exhaust and i got the ol 2 1/4 inch flowmasters 40 series id like to be able to hang pretty close with his car ;)

Your friend in town isn't as fast as you might think, although chances are that he doesn't get much of a challenge in the stoplight grand-prix. At his "guesstimated" power level his 3" exhaust mainly serves to make his engine noisier, rather than faster.

The track can be a humbling experience, that is why a lot of street squealers stay away. What you will discover is that it is more important how all the parts you put together work as a team, rather than how much of a standout one part or another is by itself.

If you already have a pile of parts go ahead and put them all together. Then start playing around with different parts of the combo - find some friends that you guys can swap parts back and forth.

Thomas

right now i just got basicly a stock 350 with a set of flat tops im about to sell another 69 i have to my bro and then thatll leave me some cash to play around with :D graemlins/thumbsup.gif so im opening up some ideas ;)