I've just got done installing a new cam, pushrods and roller rockers and while the intake and valve covers are off, wanted to check with you guys and see if there is any way to see if I'll have any problems with coil bind. Is there any way I can test for this? How? I did a search and didn't find anything.

Another question: The cam manufact. suggests that I remove the inner spring during the 20 minute break-in period (hyd flat tappet cam). When I installed the previous cam a few years back we didn't do that (didn't know we should have) and didn't have any problems. I've never have removed the inner spring before...how difficult is that? Is removing the inner spring a something the manufact. recommends just to be on the safe side, or is this really crucial with all hyd flat tappet break-ins? I've already got the correct oil and GM additive for the break-in.

ok if your using a hydraulic cam ,checking the coil bind is easy BUT you need a solid lifter (because a hyd lifter has a plunger and it will depress,giving a false reading) ......so after you install the solid lifter ,rotate the engine until you have full lift .Stop and insert a feeler gauge between the springs and measure .Dont forget the inner spring measurement.

Now for the removing the inner spring . if your only at like 110lbs closed and like 250 lbs open i say your fine ....ive done this many times !! Now if your at say 125 -135 lbs closed and 300lbs open i would remove the inner for ease of breakin .
search removing springs on engine for tips on this job.

I have been told in the past that if you can insert a paperclip between the springs at full lift you are good. But that kinda of stuff always makes me leary.
Bill

Here is the cam that I'm putting in and their recommended springs. I didn't replace my springs because I think the cam is just slightly more aggressive than my previous one and they didn't have that many miles on them. Based on this information, I'm guessing that I should take out the inner springs then? I'm not looking forward to doing that...and am suprised that I've spoken with two of my friends, who are mechanics and muscle car guys, who said I should be okay without removing the inner springs....

Comp Cams 11-246-3
Intake Lift- .552
Exhaust Lift- .555
Intake Duration @ .050"-230
Exhaust Duration @ .050"- 236
Recommending Springs Part #924-16 (Seat pressure 125# @ 1.880" seat, 315# @ 1.280" open, Valve lift up to .640", Coil bind @1.200", Rate 17 lbs/inch)

As far as the coil bind question, how much clearence should i have with the spring compressed with a solid lifter. The paperclip sounds great, but does anybody know the actual measurement? Thanks for you help guys!

What are the specs on the springs you have on there? Also rule of thumb is minimum of .060" clearance before coil bind.

I'm not sure what the current specs are, but they are double springs and supported this cam:

Crower 01242.
Intake Lift- .522
Exhaust Lift- .527
Intake Duration @ .050"-218
Exhaust Duration @ .050"- 226
Approx Spring Pressure- Closed 110/120lbs, Open 325/335lbs

I'm thinking if the springs held up under the old cam, they would be fine with the new one. Anybody disagree?

Also, anybody change to a cam like this and not remove the inner spring? Result from that? The reason I keep asking to try to make sure is because I don't have an air compressor to hold the valves open...

An air compressor helps but is not necessary. You can bring the piston to TDC and the valve will sit on the piston. If it makes you feel better you can slide a piece of rope into the cylinder to fill up the gap. As far as the springs I would change them. It's cheap insurance against valve float. Many people change cams and then wonder why the car doesn't run as expected. You don't know what the spring pressure is on the springs now. I wouldn't think springs for that cam are that expensive.