So since I brought the car home yesterday, it's been sitting until today when I put it back together (Worked on it a bit last night). I removed the carburetor and stripped it down, cleaned it, put a new gasket in, and reinstalled the carb. Now the idle's up around 1500 or so (No tach, guessing by ear), and the top flap stays open all the way. I'm thinking it's the choke going out. Either that or something's missing that wasn't there when I got the car. Any input from anybody that ever had similar issues or know's about it? Any information is greatly appreciated as I'm working on the car all day tomorrow too.

-Chad

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/3111/carb2hr8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/5979/carb1er6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


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I removed the carburetor and stripped it down, cleaned it, put a new gasket in, and reinstalled the carb.
WHICH gasket?

Now the idle's up around 1500 or so (No tach, guessing by ear), and the top flap stays open all the way. I'm thinking it's the choke going out. Either that or something's missing that wasn't there when I got the car. Any input from anybody that ever had similar issues or know's about it? Any information is greatly appreciated as I'm working on the car all day tomorrow too.
The FIRST thing you do when working on a Rochester 2G-style carb like that one is to stand by the left fender, grab the fuel inlet firmly, and push back and forth. Does the whole top of the carb wiggle back and forth? Unless you've been into it to tighten the screws, I bet it moves quite a bit--and that is as common as dirt.

As I recall, the throttle stop and throttle linkage is set up so that with the carb pushed all the way one direction, the idle speed is very low; and with the carb pushed the other way, the idle speed is much faster.

There is a choke coil on the passenger side. Is it connected? If the engine was cool--let's say "under 80 degrees" the choke should be shut or at least partly shut. But if the engine is fully warmed up--or even shut off but with residual heat in the intake manifold--the choke may be held open; especially if the choke coil is improperly adjusted.

It'd be worth your time to work the choke flap and watch the choke-to-fast idle cam linkage to assure it's in proper synchronization. As I recall--and it's been a LONG time--with the choke flap closed as far as the vacuum pulloff will allow, the idle speed screw should align with the index mark on the fast idle cam. (looks like ">" stamped into the cam.) Bend the linkage to adjust--but--you want to be sure the choke pulloff is adjusted properly before you adjust the fast idle cam linkage.

At some point, you might just as well buy a carb kit and follow ALL the directions that come with it.

another common problem with this carb is if the wing nut on air cleaner gets tightened too much it will actually warp the top half of the carb pulling the middle upward if this happens it will create a vacuum leak in the upper air horn area. with a block of wood and a hammer gently tap on top of carb to force it back down.also for your fast idle problem if the choke plate is wide open and the fast idle cam is not resting on the set screw the base idle screw may just need a slight adjustment or possibly the the throttle plates are opened a little to much from bent linkage or possibly throttle cable to tight

The problem is the top plate stays open way too much. That's why I'm thinking it's my choke. I completely stripped the carb, cleaned it and put it back together using the existing gaskets (I know it's a no no, but they were in good enough shape). I put a new mount gasket in after cleaning the mating surfaces on the carb and manifold. This is why I don't know why it's not working properly. To me, it has to be the choke. Maybe I'll just replace or adjust it and see what happens. Maybe I'll just leave it as is and use it as an excuse to bump up to a new manifold with a 4 bbl instead lol

no it doesn't have to be the choke. this time of year you might not see the choke blade closing much.

the choke blade staying open does not cause a fast idle, the choke closing causes a fast idle.

likelyhood is that you've created a vacuum leak along the way. hearing any loud hissy or whistliing noises at idle? ook over the carb carefully including the back, check for any open vacuum ports.

Carb kits for the 2 bbl are cheap and come with everything you need. Make sure your throttle plate bushings are not worn, they can cause a vacuum leak too.

I've checked for vacuum leaks already and found nothing. I'll double check again today and go over everything one more time to see if I missed something but I'm pretty sure I covered everything. Everything's hooked up and whatnot. But yeah, I'll double check and report back later. Thanks for all the info so far.

Who use's a choke on these??

Pump it three or four times and go!!

My Q-Jet's choke on my 406 is wired wide open!! And If I had a problem lighting her off down around 12 below zero, it was nothing that a shot of starting fluid won't handle!!!

Imho, the 2G and 2GC have to be the simplest carbs made.

pdq67

same here, I've had my choke on my quadrajet on my 84 k5 blazer wired open for years. even in the winter it always starts.