: 70' coil question
Juhosaphat Sep 13th, 08, 10:58 AM Last night I was trying to put in my new MSD coil, and found on the positive side of the existing coil, a small little canister that had a mounting bracket on it. I'll get a picture as soon as I can to show it, but I was wondering if anybody would know off hand if it needs to be grounded for the coil to function properly? The canister is probably about 1" x.5" and is cylindrical in shape. Any info is greatly appreciated since I'm trying to get my MSD coil in today.
-Chad
The Devil's advocate Sep 13th, 08, 11:14 AM That would be a noise suppressor, is grounded to the coil bracket by the screw and holder for it, and the wire goes to the positive coil post. It helps eliminate radio noise with AM and CB radio operation.
Regards,
Milton
Juhosaphat Sep 13th, 08, 11:24 AM That would be a noise suppressor, is grounded to the coil bracket by the screw and holder for it, and the wire goes to the positive coil post. It helps eliminate radio noise with AM and CB radio operation.
Regards,
Milton
So I'm guessing it's not a necessary part then? The radio is going to be coming out of the car anyway, so taking it off won't harm coil function will it?
The Devil's advocate Sep 13th, 08, 7:12 PM Nope.
Regards,
Milton
Juhosaphat Sep 13th, 08, 9:16 PM Nope.
Regards,
Milton
Awesome. Took it out today and hooked the coil back out after cleaning the carb thoroughly. Now my only other coil based question:
The positive side has two wires spliced into one end. I thought there was supposed to only be one wire? Or is one maybe an old tach wire that was left in?
The Devil's advocate Sep 13th, 08, 10:43 PM That is correct for a point ignition, one wire is a bypass from the solenoid to the positive side of the coil, for starting voltage to the coil during the engine cranking, the other is the resistance wire from the ignition switch the system runs off of when the ignition switch is in the run position. No problems there.
Regards,
Milton
Juhosaphat Sep 14th, 08, 2:35 AM That is correct for a point ignition, one wire is a bypass from the solenoid to the positive side of the coil, for starting voltage to the coil during the engine cranking, the other is the resistance wire from the ignition switch the system runs off of when the ignition switch is in the run position. No problems there.
Regards,
Milton
So when I go to put in my MSD coil, I'll just hook up both of them to the ballast resistor and run one wire from the other end of the resistor?
The Devil's advocate Sep 14th, 08, 11:49 AM On a 1970 GM vehicle, ONE of those wires that go to the single connector for the positive post on the coil IS the ballast resistor. The wire itself, IS the resistor. That wire is the one with the silver strands and black insulation, with another plastic covering that is white, and appears to be a woven cloth-like white cover. THAT is the resistor wire.
Connect the two wire connector to the positive side of the coil. IF your ignition system is the stock points system, connect the wire from the noise suppressor bolted to the coil bracket, to the same positive coil post.
IF you have electronic ignition, follow their recommendations for the wiring, and disregard using the noise suppressor, don't connect it.
Regards,
Milton
Juhosaphat Sep 14th, 08, 12:30 PM On a 1970 GM vehicle, ONE of those wires that go to the single connector for the positive post on the coil IS the ballast resistor. The wire itself, IS the resistor. That wire is the one with the silver strands and black insulation, with another plastic covering that is white, and appears to be a woven cloth-like white cover. THAT is the resistor wire.
Connect the two wire connector to the positive side of the coil. IF your ignition system is the stock points system, connect the wire from the noise suppressor bolted to the coil bracket, to the same positive coil post.
IF you have electronic ignition, follow their recommendations for the wiring, and disregard using the noise suppressor, don't connect it.
Regards,
Milton
MSD calls for a .8 ohm ballast resistor for their Blaster 2 coil to work properly. That's why I'm wondering which wire to hook up to the resistor? Or both?
If it helps, it's a stock points type system. In the MSD instructions, it says to use a .8 ohm ballast resistor between the positive wire and the positive terminal on the coil. I used to be so good with wiring, but haven't done it in a few years. I hate having to remember things lol But I sure do appreciate all the help so far.
The Devil's advocate Sep 14th, 08, 8:31 PM Take the terminal with the two wires connected to it, and put it, and the noise suppressor wire on the POSITIVE POST OF THE COIL. Then, connect the black wire from the distributor, to the NEGATIVE POST ON THE COIL. DONE.
The MSD resistor is for systems that don't have a resistor already in place, or, no resistor wire.
Regards,
Milton
Juhosaphat Sep 14th, 08, 8:49 PM Take the terminal with the two wires connected to it, and put it, and the noise suppressor wire on the POSITIVE POST OF THE COIL. Then, connect the black wire from the distributor, to the NEGATIVE POST ON THE COIL. DONE.
The MSD resistor is for systems that don't have a resistor already in place, or, no resistor wire.
Regards,
Milton
Great, I ordered a resistor for no reason then lol No problem though. Atleast now I know I can hook up my coil without an issue. Do I really need the suppressor? The car isn't going to have a radio in it eventually, so would it be more for others benefits than mine in that case?
The Devil's advocate Sep 15th, 08, 12:09 PM One thing you need to confirm, that the stock resistor wire is still in place and functioning. If that silver stranded, black insulated, plastic cover woven look wire is still there, this is good, the resistor wire is still in place. This wire will show a full battery voltage with just the ignition on and the engine stopped, should drop the voltage down when the engine is runing. Measure from positive post of coil to engine ground (carb stud, etc).
You don't need the noise suppressor to run the vehicle, only to help resolve the radio noise issues, if present.
Regards,
Milton
Juhosaphat Oct 3rd, 08, 2:14 AM So is that second wire the one that runs to the starter? Because I'm putting a new starter in and am not going to be able to use it or need it.
anychevy Oct 3rd, 08, 4:03 AM So is that second wire the one that runs to the starter? Because I'm putting a new starter in and am not going to be able to use it or need it.
Correct
Your new starter dosen't have the (R) terminal as mentioned above, so the yellow wire from the starter to the + side of the coil is not used.
You can cut it off or just leave it taped up at the starter and the above mentioned resistor wire will do.
If you want to put a ballast resistor in line to the + side of the coil, you need to run a new coil wire from the IGN terminal on the fusebox and then mount the ballast resistor on the firewall.
Juhosaphat Oct 5th, 08, 3:52 AM Correct
Your new starter dosen't have the (R) terminal as mentioned above, so the yellow wire from the starter to the + side of the coil is not used.
You can cut it off or just leave it taped up at the starter and the above mentioned resistor wire will do.
If you want to put a ballast resistor in line to the + side of the coil, you need to run a new coil wire from the IGN terminal on the fusebox and then mount the ballast resistor on the firewall.
So I'll be okay running the original wire to the coil with no resistor right? Or I'd have to run a completely new wire from the ignition to a ballast to the coil if I wanted to go with a ballast resistor?
anychevy Oct 5th, 08, 4:11 AM So I'll be okay running the original wire to the coil with no resistor right? Or I'd have to run a completely new wire from the ignition to a ballast to the coil if I wanted to go with a ballast resistor?
Yep
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