okay it seems i got the bug. picked up a 69 chevelle last month bought a sbc 427 stroker short block. need some help. this is gonna run a 323 rear gear . it has 18cc dish pistons. i want to put a complete and total torque monster cam in it with a duel pane intake . need a cam and head recomendation. want to run on 91 pump gas .. what can you suggest or what cam should i use and heads remember im an old fart so i need correct info since im way behind in my hot rodding . you guys have always been of good help so far and i thank you all.

well this will be interesting to see what they say since i have a 427 motown myself ..and i miss my old heads .. to

Is this an aftermarket block? If yes, is the cam tunnel raised? If not, you could have a problem finding a low performance cam to fit this block, because it will have to be a small base circle cam to clear the rods.

what intake manifold and carb will be used? I'm guessing you'll want power from idle to like 5500 rpms? I'm sure you'll get the answers you need hear. Is it a factory block or aftermarket? Maybe UDHarold will chime in on a cam for it.

oops wrong topic sorry

its a 9.025 deck cam location stock 350 mains 4.125 bore 18 cc dish pistons 4340 crank with a 4 inch stroke. i want it to make slam you in the seat torque run on 91 octane pump and pull the 323 gears that are already in the car like no tomorrow and use a duel plane intake. i need a head and cam recomendation . thank you

That's a big small block, especially in a OEM block. The comment above about the small base circle cam is is well-taken. You're likely going to need one.

Go to AFR (http://www.airflowresearch.com/), click on the left side on the small block stuff, look at the 220cc head. You would need to talk to them about valve springs, you'll need a streetable valve spring that won't kill your valve train. Also need to ask them for a straight plug setup, you really don't want slant plug heads on a street car unless you're willing to pop for a set of custom built headers. Not cheap. It comes with a nice big 76cc chamber, keep the compression down to a dull roar so you run it on gas you can actually buy. You'll get about 9.2 or so with 76cc, close to 10:1 with 67cc.

You could also look at the SPEC 210, it's good. but the chamber is 10cc smaller.

You could also look at these Brodix heads, (http://www.brodix.com/2005catalog/13-14.html) the T1x is the better head but has 68cc chambers and requires an expensive shaft rocker setup.

After you settle on heads I'd recommend you call up Isky or Crower and ask them to recommend something after explaining that you have a 4" arm in there. Make sure they understand about the 3:23 gear and your intended use. This combo is pretty well outside normal practices, that's why I'd talk to somebody at Isky or Crower after you have the heads in your hands. You don't need to talk to some goofy magazine-reader type at CC or a local-yokel speed shop.

Feel free to email me if you have questions. Another guy here, wolfplace, might be a good resource for you also.

Tom

Can you post your bearing clearances? Also your piston type and skirt clearance.

dont know the bearing clerance off hand as it is an assembles short block . it has custom order ross 21 cc dish pistons. i know i said 18cc my mstake.. the crank says 4340/350040006000/int/1855. it has an h beam rod. its not an oem block its a merlin motown aftermarket block..im not looking to race it i just want gobs of torque and decent heads to run a duel plane with..

i have that same crank its by scat right.? i think some are confused as to the base circle deal .. i had a rr-282/295 wich is a roller with 530 intake 550 exhaust234/246 at 50with a 110 center lobe and it didnt make that good of power. i also lost power when i took the pro top line 220 /208/160/72 chamber iron heads off in favor of dart pro 1 alum 205/160/64chambers. so i ditched the cam and had comp custom grind me a flat tapped hyd to my spec,s for a 350 and had no clerance problems . however i did get alot of torque out of the new cam my biggest change was to a 114 lobe seperation. and i went to a 228 236 at 50 with a 503 intake and a 514 exhaust. still run the open plem for now but am ghonna chang when i put iron heads back on the dart,s were a huge mistake for my motor,. i might mention my roller was an isky. also with a 72cc chamber my compression was 9.3.1 and with a 64 barley 10.0 .1 so claims ross when i called them to talk compression on ther 21cc dish .. i have that same short block . did you get that from smedding performance.? in california. i have pic,s of it posted on one of my pages on my web site....

yes ben smendding . has your motor had any problems. ? is he a good machinist./?

i have used him on many small blocks never had any problems with his work. i have heard horor stories but as with all shops there is always someone who thinks they can finish the job they screw something up or make a mistake and the first thing they want to do is blame the shop.. then agin once in a while all shops have a mistake slip through. after they are only human they make a mistake now and then to. . let me know what you fianlly come up with . myself im goin after some pro topline again because like i said there was a very noticable drop in power changing to alum heads . and its a street motor in a 70 chevelle with a/c .

hmm i cant beleave no body here can recomend a cam or some iron heads for this motor . ? what did i stump you all.

2.32 rear gears...Am I mis reading something? :/

sorry adam i corrected my error 323 rear gears

3.23, I think. A typo.

Tom

Unless you have some unusual rods you almost always need a small base circle cam with a 4" stroke standard deck block.
Some people do not know the difference between a small base circle & a standard one & if you call for a custom cam & tell any decent cam company you have a 4" stroke you will normally get a small base circle unless you tell them not to.
Not always but usually,,,
There is just no good reason to lose power with aluminum heads unless there was something wrong with the head something else was changed at the same time or there was another problem.
I have flowed a lot of Pro & dart heads & while I don't normally use either much, I know which one I would choose between those two ;)

I don't recognize the crank number but if it is a Scat, it will have their name cast into the crank in raised letters.
It does not look like a normal Scat number but it may be part of a kit or something.

I would suggest the AFR 210 with a 66cc chamber which you won't find in their catalog but I can get them for you at a pretty good price & they come with a solid roller spring so you can spec any spring down from there at no charge.
Straight or angle plugs, same price.
If you want a iron head go with the new Darts 215cc should work fine, 230 is way too big.

The Isky roller cam mentioned above is a hyd roller, not a solid just so there is no confusion. ;)
For a cam in a 10.0 427" small block I would go with a hyd roller or hyd flat tappet considering your RPM limits.
I'll leave the specs to Harold as he has been sneakin around here the last few days :D

Hi Harold graemlins/beers.gif

65283, the reason I asked about your bearing and skirt clearances, was that I was concerned that this might be a max effort short block, and that it might not be suitable for continuous use. Race motors are typically set up a little looser, and this can lead to increased heat generation in the bearings and cylinder walls. You should get the specs from the builder.