I am new to the website. I am rebuilding a 68 chevelle, It orginally came with a 10 bolt rear end. I plan on having about 550hp after Its done. I do not plan on building a race car. I will rop on it on the street a bit and take it to the track once and a while with a set of stickys on it. Will a built 10 bolt rear be enough for this car with that kind of power ????? If so what kind of internals should i put in it? axles? carrier? gears? c clip elimintors etc? Im new to all this so any help would be appreciated. thanks!!
:thumbsup:

I am new to the website. I am rebuilding a 68 chevelle, It orginally came with a 10 bolt rear end. I plan on having about 550hp after Its done. I do not plan on building a race car. I will rop on it on the street a bit and take it to the track once and a while with a set of stickys on it. Will a built 10 bolt rear be enough for this car with that kind of power ????? If so what kind of internals should i put in it? axles? carrier? gears? c clip elimintors etc? Im new to all this so any help would be appreciated. thanks!!
:thumbsup:

With that kind of power and stickys I would go 12 bolt.......

why not upgrade to a ford 9" or dana 60, both tend to be stronger than a 10 bolt and both are available at reasonable cost in salvage yards at times.
I sheaded several 12 bolt rears with HD axels before swapping to a dana 60 with HD axles in my race car, and never had a problem after that

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0304_9_inch_12_bolt_rearend_comparison/index.html

http://www.dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm

http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm

http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyrearends.html

With Moser axles (or another quality after market axle) Eaton posi and Richmond gears, have the axle tubes welded to the center housing and install C-clip eliminators. The 10 bolt will handle that power easily....

I am new to the website. I am rebuilding a 68 chevelle, It orginally came with a 10 bolt rear end. I plan on having about 550hp after Its done. I do not plan on building a race car. I will rop on it on the street a bit and take it to the track once and a while with a set of stickys on it. Will a built 10 bolt rear be enough for this car with that kind of power ????? If so what kind of internals should i put in it? axles? carrier? gears? c clip elimintors etc? Im new to all this so any help would be appreciated. thanks!!
:thumbsup:

Well, I have a 71 with a 427 and a 10 bolt. I bought good axles, a new eaton posi and it seems to be fine.

Once in a while at the track should be OK and it's the cheap way to deal with the problem now. If and when you waste it then consider a upgrade to a 12 bolt, or the 9 inch ford, dana 60 or the rear everyone overlooks the 8 3/4 chrysler, very strong. All the non GM rears will need brackets made for the rear so it will bolt in.

your better off going with a 12 bolt or Dana 60 that 10 bolt can be made to hang on but I would rather be safe than sorry just my 2cents:sad:

I purchased a 8.5 10 bolt that came from an Olds, it has the same pinion diameter as the 12 bolt plus bolt in axles instead of c-clips. The only problem that comes up is the driveshaft will have to be shortened 1 inch because the pinion snout length is longer. I also needed the adapter type u-joint because the Olds takes a larger size, other than that it was a direct bolt in. I am very pleased though with the way it all turned out. I bought mine from J.D. Race & Restoration, it was around 1,100.00 shipped and came complete with new posi, gears,brakes and lines. They stock cores and will build to your specs, Jim does it on the side so depending on how busy he is will determine how much he can do. He was great to deal with, I was looking at a Moser or a Strange 12 bolt which would of been over kill for me and much more pricey.

Steve

thank you all for your input! it is greatly appreciated! I think im goin to go with the built 10 bolt rear. At most Ill have 550hp, I dont think I'll have that much, so i believe I'll be fine with a built 10 bolt. thanks guys!

don't know if any one's had any experience with the truetrac but it looks strong i'm running about 375-400hp and an Eaton in a 10 bolt 8.2 after a few strip passes my spiders started doing strange things that would be my only concern

It will cost the same to upgrade a 10 or 12 bolt so why not build in some strength from day one. I saw a 10 bolt with a ton of upgrades grenade on the starting line with only few passes. Like throwing money away when they break that soon. 550 hp is lots of power, especially with bb torque.......

I'm assuming wicked68's 10-bolt is an 8.2".

Sticky tires are probably the dividing line that would make 550hp over the top for an 8.2", if somebody wanted to be reasonably sure they would be able to avoid the tow truck for a ride home.
Even with all the upgrades, an 8.2" is a crap shoot every time you hammer it with big torque, a clutch and real rubber. A 389 GTO on old Lakewood Pos-A-Traction rubber just isn't the same as a modern-tech engine on modern rubber, especially with a clutch in-between.
There is a lot of movement inside the gear case. For a good example of this, look at the new aftermarket 12-bolt that is available, with much increased meat and fastener size and depth of engagement.
An 8.2" with 550 hp (that in a rat would be roughly the same amount of torque, or 450 ft.lbs in a 550 hp mouse) passing through it to rubber that won't slip much will result in metal moving around, even with all the crutches like axle braces and support covers. That is a big killer of rear ends.

I ran one for a while in my Elco with 500+hp, with a Super T-10 and Radial T/As, and it was probably the tires' poor traction that let the rear live. Drastically lightened body also played a role, no doubt.

My current Dana 60 with all the upgrades (billet 1350 yoke, Truetrac, late Torino bearings and ends, Strange axles, etc, didn't really cost that much more than maxxing out a 10 bolt would have cost, in order to achieve equal results. Maybe another $750 or so, considering everything inside the 10 bolt would have to leave.

I can hammer on the big Dana all I want and it doesn't even care. Funny, it's only about 20-25 pounds heavier than a 12-bolt, and doesn't absorb power and rob efficiency like the 9" Ford does.

Eric

Well, I have a 71 with a 427 and a 10 bolt. I bought good axles, a new eaton posi and it seems to be fine.

Once in a while at the track should be OK and it's the cheap way to deal with the problem now. If and when you waste it then consider a upgrade to a 12 bolt, or the 9 inch ford, dana 60 or the rear everyone overlooks the 8 3/4 chrysler, very strong. All the non GM rears will need brackets made for the rear so it will bolt in.

Is that '71 427 a 4-spd car?

Is that '71 427 a 4-spd car?

I wish:hurray::hurray::hurray:

I was a completly original 307 A/C TH350 car with 14K on the clock when I got it. It was my grandmothers car, bought new in St Louis and garaged it's entire life.

I removed the stock numbers motor, built a 427 and put the A/C back so it looks factory, installed a Gardner exhaust, wheels and tires, upgraded the 10 bolt and handed it over to my son for paint, still waiting for paint:(:(

I put a B6 converter in, out of a 70 1/2 Z/28, about a 3200 unit.

Son added a Goodmark cold air hood as well.

I wish:hurray::hurray::hurray:

I was a completly original 307 A/C TH350 car with 14K on the clock when I got it. It was my grandmothers car, bought new in St Louis and garaged it's entire life.

I removed the stock numbers motor, built a 427 and put the A/C back so it looks factory, installed a Gardner exhaust, wheels and tires, upgraded the 10 bolt and handed it over to my son for paint, still waiting for paint:(:(

I put a B6 converter in, out of a 70 1/2 Z/28, about a 3200 unit.

Son added a Goodmark cold air hood as well.

Sounds like a cool car! :)