From what I have heard you want to limit how many times you turn the motor over by hand after putting in a new cam because the lube is likely to fall off.

The thing is between temporarily adjusting the valves(2 times), degreeing the cam(1-2 times), turning it over to find correct pushrod length, turning it over to pre oil it at the 90 degree intervals, and then finding TDC to slip the Distributor in, I'm going to have to turn it over a good 8-10 times. Is this going to be too much? Do you guys have any tips?

Also, where do you guys get the GM EOS? Do you just pour it in the oil fill hole or should I lather the cam and lifters in the valley with it before fire up?

AllGo,

I don't believe 8 to 10 times by hand should be a problem IMHO, but maybe someone else knows better. I turned my 396 over more than that with no ill effects. The GM EOS should be available at your local GM dealer. That's where I got mine. If not, Pace Performance or Scoggin-Dickey should have it in their catlogs or on-line. I used the EOS after assembly and poured it over the rockers and pushrods before installing the valve covers. It seemed to work great as I experienced no problems even when it wouldn't fire initially and I had to turn it over more than I wanted to. By the way, I did prime the entire oil system before attempting to fire the motor, but after adding the EOS. Hope this helps.

John

I used Isky brand cam lub for that reason, It is a molly based lube & still lubricates after the bulk has been removed. And beleive me, after the first revelution with the rockers adjusted, the bulk of the lube is off...

I am also a beleiver in EOS, any GM dealer should have it in stock. I think I just paid about 6.00 for a bottle..

Good luck,
Scott

Thanks for the replys.

So the concesus is that there won't be a problem turning it over this many times before fire up?

I don't think there will be any problem at all...

but did you prelube?

One suggestion is to not install the lifters or pushrods when finding TDC, pre-lubing, degreeing the cam, etc. When degreeing the cam, finding proper pushrod length, etc., just use very light hdw store springs which exert hardly any pressure on the lobes/lifters and just on one cylinder. The only time you should have to turn it over with all lifters, pushrods, rockers, and normal springs installed is to adjust the valves. Also be sure to prime your carb by pouring about one oz of gas down the primary vent and pumping the throttle linkage til you get a pump shot before attempting to start it.

Originally posted by von:
One suggestion is to not install the lifters or pushrods when finding TDC, pre-lubing, degreeing the cam, etc. When degreeing the cam, finding proper pushrod length, etc., just use very light hdw store springs which exert hardly any pressure on the lobes/lifters and just on one cylinder. The only time you should have to turn it over with all lifters, pushrods, rockers, and normal springs installed is to adjust the valves. Also be sure to prime your carb by pouring about one oz of gas down the primary vent and pumping the throttle linkage til you get a pump shot before attempting to start it. Didn't even think of that....thank you very much for the information!

You're welcome. smile.gif

I had to re-degree the cam, check P/V clearnace, etc, and I kept thinking , man how many times can I roll this thing over! Well, final assembly was the lifters/pushrods, etc, so I regooped them, poured EOS ( at any GM dealer - Doyle should have it) over them, set valves ( installed lifters/rods one at a time actually), then FINALLY ran two beads of RTV on the intake surafces and glued the intake down ready for initial fireup the next day.

Hey, which cam you swapping to?

Originally posted by 427L88:
I had to re-degree the cam, check P/V clearnace, etc, and I kept thinking , man how many times can I roll this thing over! Well, final assembly was the lifters/pushrods, etc, so I regooped them, poured EOS ( at any GM dealer - Doyle should have it) over them, set valves ( installed lifters/rods one at a time actually), then FINALLY ran two beads of RTV on the intake surafces and glued the intake down ready for initial fireup the next day.

Hey, which cam you swapping to? Going with the xs268 solid cam(230/236@.050 .488/.501 lift,....hoping for low 13s!)

So when adjusting the valves should I take my chances and use the ICEO method which will undoubetly take a number of turns or can I use the 2 turn over method to get in the ballpark for inital fire-up?(althought Ive heard the 2 turn method isnt perfect for non-stock cams but it should be close enough for fire up?)

ABSOLUTELY NOT. I only 'rough' things when I'm using statistics!

Not being a great mechanic, I try and be as precise as can be, use the EO/IC method. Even so, I fired the new motor with .100 lash on both #1 valves. Brainfart for sure.

The bottom end isn't fresh is it? Well, then don't worry about rolling the motor over by hand.That was my concern, fresh bearings.

Don't know how aggressive the ramps on that cam are, but don't fret if lash ends up opening up a few times on you before everything takes a set.

Looks like a great choice!

Originally posted by 427L88:
ABSOLUTELY NOT. I only 'rough' things when I'm using statistics!

Not being a great mechanic, I try and be as precise as can be, use the EO/IC method. Even so, I fired the new motor with .100 lash on both #1 valves. Brainfart for sure.

The bottom end isn't fresh is it? Well, then don't worry about rolling the motor over by hand.That was my concern, fresh bearings.

Don't know how aggressive the ramps on that cam are, but don't fret if lash ends up opening up a few times on you before everything takes a set.

Looks like a great choice! So did yours fire up all good? Look forward to seeing you at NYIRP sometime...I'm actually going there tommorrow to get my baseline run so I see how much the cam change wil improve times.