ok... i'm putting the engine back together getting very close to getting it done and i'm trying to adjust my valves and having severe issues... i'm using method two out of the tech pages.... tdc with both valves closed on #1 and adjust 1e 1i 3e 5i 7i 2i 4e 8e then rotating a full 360 degress and adjusting 3i 5e 7e 2e 4i 6e 6i 8i and i'm tightening down until i feel light tension on the pushrod then another quarter turn... after i'm all done there are always rocker arms that are loose enough to come off.... it is a brand new cam and i let the lifter sit in oil over night before installing.... any ideas?

Try Method 1. Make sure your socket is not touching the rocker or the ball. Tighten while you spin the P rod with your fingers. When you start to feel resistance. Stop. Remove the socket and see if you can still feel resistance. If so, Tighten another 1/2 turn. If not, try again making sure the socket is free.

As stated by Crane Cams:

Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.

2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)

3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)

4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
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Note that in those instructions they didn't make any distinction between a hydraulic flat-tappet setup, and a hydraulic roller one. That's because they are both done the same way. So if you know how to adjust a non-roller cam, you also know how to do a roller. It's no different.

Roller rockers are often noisier than stock-type ones; some more so than others. Generally, the noise is fairly evenly distributed throughout the engine: not a couple of them clacking loudly and the rest quiet, but rather, all of them making about the same amount of noise. If it's like that, maybe a kind of louder whirring sort of sound than you're accustomed to, they're probably fine.