After hearing horror stories about cams getting eaten at initial startup, I have decided to go to a roller cam. My question is about hydraulic roller as opposed to solid roller. I will be racing this 454 on weekends and want the best cam for that purpose, but I am not completely clear as to what I actually want. Can someone clear this up for me ? This will be a 500+hp 454 that will see relatively high rpm's from time to time. Thanks for any advice guys :confused:

A hydro roller will work however it won't give you teh power or revs that a solid roller will. without a rev kit you are talking 5800-6000rpms max, and the valvetrain will last a long time and no valve lash checks. IF you are looking for max power, a solid roller will be better in every single aspect accept for longetivy. Expect to chekc the lifters once a year. THey might last 5 years, but it is good to check. Solid rollers have endless RPM capability, more aggresive lobes, lighter valvetrain,and are cheaper since you don't need a rev kit. This is especially for BBC's since the valvetrain is heavier and beefier than a sbc. If you want a good street car and have a lot of lowend a hydro roller will work excellent. If you want max power etc. a solid roller is the way to go. make sure you get a steel billet cam with a cast iron gear, and either Iskys red line lifters, or crowers wiht the hippo option. Obviously i have been doing my research these last few days!

John,

I'm not sure how they would matter as far as consistency goes, but I've liked all the hyd rollers I've had quite a bit. A switch to a solid roller, of relatively radically different design (note I am not qualifying it as the 'right' solid roller...), for me netted 35-40hp.
A 454 decent heads, carb, headers, intake would seem that it would make an easy 500+ with a well designed hyd roller. A very mild solid roller may have its benefits over an excellent hyd, but I wouldn't know.
My valve lash hasn't moved a bit in the initial 1500 miles w/ the solid. I'm using ok rockers and a girdle though. ymmv. And I still have to check them.
My next build will be another hyd roller...
Without regard to cost or class rules, I can't see why anyone would stick to a flat tappet anymore, except for a 'true' restoration.

my .002
matt

matt

Thanks for the input guys. Do I need any special machining in my original flat tappet block for the hydro roller lifters ? The descriptions and notes in Jeg's are concerning me.

I went to a hydraulic roller on my 1971 454. Used the following:

Retrofit lifters
Shorter pushrods
Cam button

The cam I got had a pressed on iron gear so I didn't have to change the distributor gear. I'm running an electric fuel pump but if you have a mechanical pump you also need a bronze pushrod for the pump.

Edit: No machining needed.

Cody..no need to run a rev kit with a hyd roller.

I use a hyd roller in BigRed I shift at 5800 rpm 1st to 2nd and 6200 rpm 2nd to 3rd.
I`ve rev`d 6500 rpm many times but isn`t worth it as the ET is better shifting lower.

Even with larger 2.25" valves and .650 lift (a different setup btw) routinely went 6500 rpm at the finish... hyd roller also.

Also, with an imposed rpm limit of let`s say 6500 rpm max, I`m still not convinced that a solid roller will out power a hyd roller if they are ground the same.
By that, I don`t mean ADV or .050 numbers but what actually happens at the valve.
JMO..that`s all.