What is the best one out there for a carbed setup?

My Holley won't do anything anymore after just one year. The gauge just sits at 25psi and the motor runs like crap. No matter if I turn the screw in or out nothing happens. The Holley fuel pressure gauge just stays pegged. I have the main line coming in the bottom of the regulator and then a line from each port to the inlets on the carb. Why would it need a rebuild after so little time. One summer with about 300 miles and a dozen passes at the track. BTW - I am running a Summit 140GPH e-pump and -8 line to a Holley 3310 750CFM vac sec carb.

that gauge must be wrong at 25 psi the floats would colapse let alone it defidently wouldnt run. but if your in the market for a good one try a barry grant 2 port there a little pricey but they outflow the holley 3 to 1 and get a new gauge for it a liquid filled type they dont bounce around at all nos makes very nice mini ones

I found out from Holley that the 12-803 regulator just can't handle my fuel pump. I'll be going with the Summit billet regulator. It looks like they get it from Aeromotive and it can handle 20+psi input pressure.

If I were you I'd spend a little money and Get a Mallory regulator. They are very nice quality pieces, and are rebuildable. I've had one four years in my Chevelle, and still running strong!

Just adding to what Superwrench said about getting a liquid filled gauge....they're great pieces...only thing I heard wrong about them is when the temps go up, the heat affects the liquid and can/may give you a false reading. I don't know if that's suppose to be with all liquid filled ones or not. I have the liquid filled oil pressure and temp gauge...I haven't noticed anything wrong yet. Just thought I'd throw it out there...maybe someone else has heard the same and can chime in.

Liquid filled gauges are filled with glycerin. It is heat sensitive. The hotter the gauge gets the lower the pressure will read on it. This shows very common at the racetrack when you set your pressure, make a pass, and then re-check the pressure. The pressure now shows low, so you reset the pressure. Now the car cools down while you’re in the pits, and when you go to start it back up it will you have too much fuel pressure. Avoid liquid filled gauges if possible.

i have found the same thing happens with my autometer w/isolater. i think they are a nessisity in car tuning but as said they will give false readings when hot both types either way the line or gauge does heat up my point was that if using a under the hood type they shake so much that the liquid filled type does not have your average 2 lb needle shake like the dry ones do so the next best thing is a incar one but you are still subjected to the stainless line heat point is the fuel pressure should bassically be checked with a cool engine and compartment to take advatage of a correct reading weather its a under the hood type or not and the gauges are great for after the pressure is set and for keeping tabs on it