Looking to make some tweeks to my combo over the winter in search of a little ET. In no particular order I am looking at one or some of the following:

- No Hop Bars & possibly adjustable uppers
I currently have boxed upper & lower bars (no rear sway bar).
Had SSM lowers but the car is way better off the line with them bolted in the stock location as a standard boxed arm.
Dick miller & Gazan stuff looks pretty good, any opinions?
What about the Edelbrock no hops? Anyone know how much higher the mounting point is moved?

- New shocks
I have CE 3 ways front and rear. Thought a better quality shock may make a difference. Any suggestions?

- UD 288/296 - 107 Currently run the 110 lsa version. Thought the 107 lsa would help it out of the hole as well as the 1st half of the track.
Would the 107 also make the converter stall a bit higher?

- 10" ATI Treemaster
I have been running a 10" locally built unit for 6 years now. Thought I would try another one to see if there would be any appreciable difference.
I also tried a 9" BTE unit but it slowed me down quite a bit (too much slip). Would the 107 lsa cam improve it's performance? It has a 150 degree negative fin angle.


For those that do not remember my combo it is as follows:

69 chevelle - street car
454 .030 over
10.5 compression
049 heads, 2.25/1.88's, ported to flow roughly 290+cc
UD solid 288/296 F10
Vic Jr (oval port)
950 HP carb
Aeromotive electric fuel pump & regulator
2" headers w/3.5" collectors
3" torque tech full exhaust
4.10 gears
TH400, 10", 3500 stall.
69 chevelle 3850#'s with driver
Car ran a best of 11.30 through the mufflers and typically turns 11.50's / MPH is 118-121

Id call BTE and see if they can tighen up the 9". If you purchased the converter 1 restall is usually free. Its alot cheaper than a whole new converter.

How much do your 60fts move over 10 passes?
How old are your slicks?
imho
I would look at changin to 4:56's and Koni shocks on all 4 corners or at least fabbin a Rancho 9000 on the rear. good luck

Originally posted by hoffbug:
Id call BTE and see if they can tighen up the 9". If you purchased the converter 1 restall is usually free. Its alot cheaper than a whole new converter. Tried that. Spoke to some dude named Bubba and he said he couldn`t make it stall any higher as it was already at max negative fin angle. I would have thought he would have suggested tightening it up due to my cars weight. maybe I`ll call back and try to speak to someone else. At any rate, they want 125$ for a re-stall, plus shipping of course.

Originally posted by 1968 hot rod:
How much do your 60fts move over 10 passes? Good question. If you are hitting steady 1.6's with your setup I think that is pretty good. Your ET and MPH match up very well and I assume you are putting down about 500 to the ground. All in all for what you got your times are excellent.

I think a converter is a great place to start when you have a cheaper converter in.

Cam wise it would probably help to know exactly what your powerband is now and how well your bottom end is set up to take more rpm. I also would be cautious on trying to make more power with those heads and compression. Not sure what you have done to em now, and I know there are guys making more power on ovals, but IMO you are near the diminishing returns area on those heads where you will spend alot to gain little with that compression.

I would guesst-imate that your are crossing the traps in the 6300 rpm area with the 28" tire? Where does you motor stop making power and how comforatble are you taking it past 6500rpm?

Something else... at 3850 lbs... take some weight outta that pig and your time will really be worth it IMO. You don't have to go super extreme but every pound helps.
Just my $.02 worth... hope it helps.

Originally posted by CaptCrunch:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 1968 hot rod:
How much do your 60fts move over 10 passes? Good question. If you are hitting steady 1.6's with your setup I think that is pretty good. Your ET and MPH match up very well and I assume you are putting down about 500 to the ground. All in all for what you got your times are excellent.

I think a converter is a great place to start when you have a cheaper converter in.

Cam wise it would probably help to know exactly what your powerband is now and how well your bottom end is set up to take more rpm. I also would be cautious on trying to make more power with those heads and compression. Not sure what you have done to em now, and I know there are guys making more power on ovals, but IMO you are near the diminishing returns area on those heads where you will spend alot to gain little with that compression. Just my opinion/experience that i know some will not share.

I would guesstimate that your are crossing the traps in the 6300 rpm area with the 28" tire? Where does you motor stop making power and how comforatble are you taking it past 6500rpm? How built is the lower end?

Something else... at 3850 lbs... take some weight outta that pig and your time will really be worth it IMO. You don't have to go super extreme but every pound helps.
Just my $.02 worth... hope it helps. </font>[/QUOTE]

Solid roller would wake things right up,with no other changes.
IMHO,you have a very good running combo as is,but the "need for speed" or ET gets overwelming sometimes smile.gif

Alittle off base, but what rods are you running in that 454?

Thanks!!

first off im not a big block man yet and im not knocking mr 4 speed but i have spent over 400 dallars going to solid roller with no improvment in et at all,but i had something that works real well as you do.i would talk to harrold about a cam change myself.the faster you get the harder it is to find one more tenth.as was stated also you will have to loose some weight to help et.also work on the suspention to get good weight tranfer. your sixtys should be at least in the 1.50s and your et will improve.as you know track prep also has alot to do with 60 ft times .a better converter will probable help.more stall and more gear will also help 60 ft times.if it will hook at the line

Convertor before you do anything else. A 6 year old locally built one may be OK but try the ATI. I had real problems with anything but the best convertors.

The 120+ mph indicates the power is there to go low 11s if not high tens. Sheetmetal runs 10.80s at 121, and while his car and yours are like comparing apples to oranges, it seems you have some hidden ET potential left. If you are not spinning, I would talk to some of the converter folks to see if you are in the ballpark.

I agree. If you can hit 120, you can go 11 teens or even better but the car has to hook.
I'm guessing your 60ft is all over the place?
Chevelle rear suspension is a mystery to me, but others here know how to make it work. A loose posi will also not be reliable in the 60ft dept.
I'd work on the suspension first, then mess with the converter. I feel your cam is fine. I loved mine!
Ron