I am going to build a 496 for my 68ss.This mostly will be a street motor and will be driven quite a bit in the summer.The plan is to make it look like an L89 motor so it will look "stock"except for hedders.I will be using a set of 074 heads and a gm 163(dual plane aluminum intake).I have a 67 427 2 bolt block that I am going to use.I don't have a unlimited budget but I do want to build it so it will stay together so please advise me on the right way to go about this.Do I need to convert to 4 bolt mains?cast crank or steel?stock or aftermarket rod and length?what piston for about 10 to 1 cast or forged?flat tappet cam or do I need to go roller hyd or solid?What about these stroker kits on ebay for about a grand?I figure a max rpm of 6000 or 6500?Car has 3.73 gears and a 4-speed.I know some of these choices are an individual preference but I just want to build a good solid engine that doesnt put me in the poor house.Thanks Bill.

b

Two bolt main is fine, I used studs on mine. Cast crank is fine for a reasonable rpm street engine. Tone down the rpm range to 5,500 to 6,000 and use a regular flat tappet hydraulic cam. Generally you will use a 6.385 aftermarket connecting rod. Have you cc'd the combustion chambers of your actual heads?. Is your block zero decked, or something else? Using that info along with which head gaskets you will be using will help you select pistons for that compression ratio. Actually I see no reason why you couldn't go higher on compression, I'm just past 10.8:1 on mine. Whether you buy your parts from Ebay or anywhere else, you will still need to inspect and measure before assembly. A lot of super discount rotating parts need some work before they are good to go.

It will be fun.

Thomas

Thanks for the help!

Check Ohio Crankshaft's website b/c I just saw where they have a chea, er, eh, --, "inexpensive" 496" rotating assembly AND even if it might be Chinese, I figure they will put it together RIGHT!!

pdq67

I went with the Eagle complete balanced rotating assembly through Jegs. Steel crank, H-beam rods SRP pistons (I think). 10:1 with 119cc heads. I see some E-bay sellers are offering them for a little less than I paid.

So far so good.

Originally posted by William Hennke:
I am going to build a 496 for my 68ss.This mostly will be a street motor and will be driven quite a bit in the summer.The plan is to make it look like an L89 motor so it will look "stock"except for hedders.I will be using a set of 074 heads and a gm 163(dual plane aluminum intake).I have a 67 427 2 bolt block that I am going to use.I don't have a unlimited budget but I do want to build it so it will stay together so please advise me on the right way to go about this.Do I need to convert to 4 bolt mains?cast crank or steel?stock or aftermarket rod and length?what piston for about 10 to 1 cast or forged?flat tappet cam or do I need to go roller hyd or solid?What about these stroker kits on ebay for about a grand?I figure a max rpm of 6000 or 6500?Car has 3.73 gears and a 4-speed.I know some of these choices are an individual preference but I just want to build a good solid engine that doesnt put me in the poor house.Thanks Bill. =
Bill,
Is the 074 the aluminum rect port 118cc head?? I don't keep track of all them damn numbers smile.gif
I agree with Thomas, a 2 bolt block in a Rat will handle a ton of power.
I would stud it.
For a number, easy 6-700hp without issues,, as long as it isn't at 8000 rpm :D
I prefer a little less compression like 10.0-10.5 max for a street deal with aluminum heads especially if it's going to be driven a lot.

While I would almost always prefer a forged crank for a performance deal, a good cast crank is just fine, I would suggest Scat as I feel they have the best quality control of the "budget stuff"
Plus Scat is actually a manufacturer & grinder of cranks, not just an importer. They do all their finish grinding & profiling in house & do everything from the 9000 series cast to full $3000 billets.

There are a number of genuine crap cranks out there now under different brands & most are coming from the same source so it the price seems to good to be true,,, it is probably for good reason :rolleyes:

SRP's for a piston, Scat 6.385 capscrew rods, Scat 9000 series crank should do you very well.
The 6.385 rod should let you internal balance the engine without Tungsten with the SRP's

As for buying on ebay, there are a number of legitimate dealers there but be advised there are also a lot of "blems" & "seconds" that end up there also.

If you email me I can give you some pricing on the Scat stuff from just parts to a complete internally balanced rotating assembly ;)
BTW, we do our own balancing as I am not a big fan of some of the mail order "balancing" jobs I have seen.

Wolfplace,yes the 074 is the ret port 118 head.I will send you an email about the parts thanks.

I used the 074s on my 505 and a hydraulic roller cam. Scat 9000 crank and 2 bolt block with studs. I,ve only had it up to 6000rpm so far, it still has only 100 miles on it, but from 3500 to 6000 it flys and is still pulling harder as rpm climbs. I think you will really like it when its done.

You may have to clearance that 427 block for the longer stroke. Someone else may have experience with that but I don't think the 427's have the same clearence already cast into the block as the 454's do.

If your on a budget the best thing to do is to sell the 1967 427 block #351 ......it would probably bring $1500 or so and replace it with a early 70's 454 block #289 $300-$350 and ad $1200 to the budget........427 blocks are very hard to find especially 66 and 67 blocks 2 or 4 bolt are bringing outrages prices thanx to the corvette guys. And as stated earlier the 454 block would be easier to clear for the 4.25 crank......have heard of someblocks needing no grinding at all.

Mine didn't!!

pdq67