Ok so Im pretty sure Im going to have traction issues with my BFGs DRs at the track with my manual and more HP:yes: So I have been doing searches on slicks and it looks like bias ply slicks with M5 compound work best with stick cars. The Micky Thompson ET drag slicks look to be a good tire with a reasonable price to go with.What do you think?? Is it absolutely necessary to run a tube or is it just insurance? I have read were guys are not running tubes or rim screws.

Some slicks will loose air fast and tubes are needed, also tubes are nice when you are going to run really low tire pressures.

The screws will help the tire from turning at launch but will mess up your wheels if you ever dont wana run them again.

Your gona need some bias plys for a manual car like you said.

I am not running tubes or screws because I am running radial slicks(not advised for stick cars).

I thought you said you hooked on the street with those?:confused:

Some slicks will loose air fast and tubes are needed, also tubes are nice when you are going to run really low tire pressures.

The screws will help the tire from turning at launch but will mess up your wheels if you ever dont wana run them again.

Your gona need some bias plys for a manual car like you said.

I am not running tubes or screws because I am running radial slicks(not advised for stick cars).

I thought you said you hooked on the street with those?:confused:

That was with a rolling start and it was before the motor was tuned.. Now it will spin the DRs rolling in 1st
Also tubes are like 55 bucks apiece...

Kevin, what axles are you running?

Im running US Alloy axles, welded axle tubes, 1/2" wheel studs and diff cover with bearing support...

Hoosier QTP's. Good price, no tubes, that's what Darryl's runing, I got a pair too, but haven't got to use them yet.

That'd be what I'd say.

At your power level you might have to invest some $$$ into suspension now. The slicks might not be a cure all.

Hoosier QTP's. Good price, no tubes, that's what Darryl's runing, I got a pair too, but haven't got to use them yet.

That'd be what I'd say.

Question is do they work well with a stick car?

Question is do they work well with a stick car?

Why not run what Mike(loader) is running, or Akaui?

At your power level you might have to invest some $$$ into suspension now. The slicks might not be a cure all.

Hey Brian do you ever read or remember what people have done to their cars??
I have lowers,adjustable uppers,sway bar,shocks,airbags.. What else would you do to a fast street car??

Why not run what Mike(loader) is running, or Akaui?


Over 200 bucks a piece and another 50 for tubes is way to much

Hey Brian do you ever read or remember what people have done to their cars??
I have lowers,adjustable uppers,sway bar,shocks,airbags.. What else would you do to a fast street car??

What shocks, what springs, front sway bar?, how loose is your front end?, etc.......

come on man just trying to help

Question is do they work well with a stick car?

By the time the power hits the tires ain't it all the same?:D

What shocks, what springs, front sway bar?, how loose is your front end?, etc.......

come on man just trying to help

I know sorry for snapping at you.:yes: I have done everything I want to the suspension so Im just trying to work with what I have and if slicks will net me a couple of 10ths then I will run them...

Run the DR's and give Loaders a try and see how much different they are.

There's a little rubber left on my old MT ET drags that are 400 years old for anyone to use up if you want to try them. Still got me in the low 1.4's this year for 60fts

Ben may use my DR's or these. It's up to you guys.

I guess I should say, Darryl was running, till He went "Fat Tire".:D

Why not run what Mike(loader) is running, or Akaui?

No, don't do that!! Run something different and see how it works!!

I figure I'm saving a huge pot of money with you guys as test mules:D

By the time the power hits the tires ain't it all the same?:D

:noway:

I know sorry for snapping at you.:yes: I have done everything I want to the suspension so Im just trying to work with what I have and if slicks will net me a couple of 10ths then I will run them...

I think Bergs ET drags would be a good choice. As long as the cords dont turn into dust:D

I'm running M/T ET Drags at 10.5 psi, no tubes, with steel valve stems on all 4 corners.

I have no idea what model or vintage, just they hook real sweet, a little burble on the juice when I hit 2nd, then it's hair straight back, baby.

I'm running M/T ET Drags at 10.5 psi, no tubes, with steel valve stems on all 4 corners.

I have no idea what model or vintage, just they hook real sweet, a little burble on the juice when I hit 2nd, then it's hair straight back, baby.

Me too on the MT Drags with no tubes. As far as Brian and his traction antics, I have minimal in mine and it seemed to hook real good last year at Bremerton...:sad:
I think I picked up my tires new on Craigslist last year for $100 for the pair...:D

My car has Dick Miller suspension and 29x10 Hoosier slicks. It only cost a little more to go a little faster. Good luck!
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m187/fshrmn_2006/sc0133b863.jpg

Kevin, does your rear have raised ears? I have the the anti hops on mine, which moves the ICL down and rearward.

I had used both the BFG and MT DRs. My 60s were always in the high 1.8-low 2.0 range, and never consistent. It was always bog, peddle, bog peddle. My best was 1.77 and it only happened once and I don't know why. I tried every air pressure/launch rpm combo you can imagine.

My only REAL outting was at Forks but, EVERY 60' time was in the 1.6 range.

I ended up with the Goodyears after alot of research. I marked the tire and they have not moved. I'm running tubes. I think the stiff sidewall has much to do with the consistency. You can call Carter-Maxwell and talk to them for more info.

Kevin, does your rear have raised ears? I have the the anti hops on mine, which moves the ICL down and rearward.

I had used both the BFG and MT DRs. My 60s were always in the high 1.8-low 2.0 range, and never consistent. It was always bog, peddle, bog peddle. My best was 1.77 and it only happened once and I don't know why. I tried every air pressure/launch rpm combo you can imagine.

My only REAL outting was at Forks but, EVERY 60' time was in the 1.6 range.

I ended up with the Goodyears after alot of research. I marked the tire and they have not moved. I'm running tubes. I think the stiff sidewall has much to do with the consistency. You can call Carter-Maxwell and talk to them for more info.


Im not sure what you mean by raised ears? Im running Hotchkis lowers and edelbrock adjustable uppers,Hotchkis sway bar, IAS shocks and bags in the springs.... I was able to get rid of the 2nd gear wheel hop with a bag air adjustment..

Wow if I could get my 60' down to 1.6 that would be a killer run..

Hey Kevin how much room do you have under that car???
I just put new M/T E/T streets on my truck and my old ones still have a few passes left in them.
They are 33x18.5 15's and you can have them if you want em :thumbsup:

I run tubes in mine and use screws as well.

Didn't know if maybe you had a Moser housing. The attachment points for the uppers are raised about 4". I didn't want to buy a housing so I installed the Edelbrock anti hops when I went to adjustable UCAs, which raises the ears. Otherwise we are the same but I don't have airbags or special shocks in the rear.

Hey Kevin how much room do you have under that car???
I just put new M/T E/T streets on my truck and my old ones still have a few passes left in them.
They are 33x18.5 15's and you can have them if you want em :thumbsup:

I run tubes in mine and use screws as well.

UUMM I dont have that much room:noway: but thanks for the offer:yes:

UUMM I dont have that much room:noway: but thanks for the offer:yes:

I have a cutting torch:hurray:

I have a cutting torch:hurray:


Sure lets just back half it and narrow the rear oh and might as well put in a cetified cage:D