Slick sand cure time [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Slick sand cure time


therightchoice
Aug 16th, 08, 5:08 PM
I'm using slick sand for my car and only get about 15 minutes before it starts to cure in the pot. Not even enought time to shoot a second coat. I mixed some more up and thinned about 10% with acetone, but the same results.
Temp was about 90 dregree's.

Jim

Brucebodyman
Aug 16th, 08, 5:14 PM
make sure you aren't putting in to much hardner. I personally am not a fan of the stuff. I know it's cheaper than the 2k high build stuff but i just didn't like working with it.

therightchoice
Aug 16th, 08, 5:21 PM
I actually have Dupont 2k high build primer, but it didn't seam all that thick compared to the slicksand. I would rather use the 2k primer, but wasn't sure if I have to shoot more epoxy over the 2k primer to seal it or if the 2k primer was good enough.

Jim

oktunes
Aug 16th, 08, 7:44 PM
I just finished my car and used 2 gallons of slicksand to get it straight. Of course, about half of it got sanded off. It worked great. I cut it about 15% or so so with slow dry or medium dry urethane thinner. After I got it pretty straight, I thinned a little more to get a little wetter spray and better flow out. I had enough time to spray a full gun cup of paint with no trouble.

70isfine
Aug 16th, 08, 8:41 PM
In 90F temps your gonna need to back off the hardener a little. Poly prime is the BEST bang for the buck when it comes to a filling prime. Not as much shrinkage as urethane either.

oktunes
Aug 16th, 08, 10:38 PM
Isn't polyprime the same as slicksand? Aren't both polyester coatings? The temp of the thinner you use can slow down the drying time. I used it in 90 degree weather.

70isfine
Aug 16th, 08, 11:42 PM
Isn't polyprime the same as slicksand? yes, slick sand is a polyester primer.

figbash
Aug 17th, 08, 12:12 AM
Don't play around with the catalyst proportions. If you need a longer pot life you'll need to keep it cool between coats. Drop the cup in an ice bucket until you are ready to use it but allow it to warm up a bit before spraying. The tech info suggests a 45 minute pot life at 75F but it will shorten exponentially with increased temperatures.

Tom

therightchoice
Aug 17th, 08, 12:47 AM
I was thinking about an ice bucket to keep the product cool between coats, but was worried it might cause some problems. I was using a 2 quart pot, plugged the feed hose before I could clean it out.
I went ahead and shot the 2k filler, shoots really nice and pot life is longer, just doesn't build as thick like slicksand.

Jim

pestwagon
Aug 17th, 08, 2:31 AM
The paint supply man today told me to only use Slicksand on filler, "NOT on bare metal surfaces greater than 8 by 8 inches large" . I am wondering if that is true for you guys- does the slicksand have adhesion problems on bare metal?

f14tomcat
Aug 17th, 08, 7:36 AM
I don't use the slicksand product, but I can say it is ALWAYS better to use an Epoxy primer on bare metal, after the Epoxy cures out, (read instructions on the can), usually takes an hour to cure. Then you can put the 2K high build primer on the area.

oktunes
Aug 17th, 08, 9:58 AM
Featherfill was the first poly I used. It was developed for fiberglass, but worked on metal. Evercoat developed slicksand specifically to use on metal. I think their reccomendations are to not use it on a large area of bare metal, but it is ok on small areas that are down to metal. If the whole car is stripped, I believe they reccomend a coat of epoxy first.

therightchoice
Aug 17th, 08, 11:05 AM
Does the 2K primer/filler need to be sealed with epoxy.

f14tomcat
Aug 17th, 08, 1:24 PM
You do not HAVE to put a coat of epoxy on top of the 2k primer before you put the paint on it, but.................

I usually put a med coat of epoxy primer/sealer on top of the 2k primer before I finish sand with wet 400-600 grit.
It just makes me feel better about the final outcome.

Brucebodyman
Aug 17th, 08, 9:39 PM
the only time i put epoxy over 2k primer is if i sand through and expose any bare metal & then I just hit the bare spots & re-apply the 2K

therightchoice
Aug 18th, 08, 12:23 AM
I shot epoxy over all the 2k filler. Since the epoxy has a semi-gloss finish, it really shows and waves of small dips that might have been missed.
I hoping to shoot base and clear this weekend.

f14tomcat
Aug 18th, 08, 8:25 AM
You definately can't go wrong by putting a coat of Epoxy primer/sealer on before you paint.

Be sure to sand the epoxy before painting, but you probly knew that.
I use 400-600 grit wet, depending on the paint being used.

pestwagon
Sep 1st, 08, 10:15 PM
Today I sprayed Slicksand for the first time. Used an Ebay 2.0-tipped gun. What a nice product-excellent adhesion to metal and filler, rock hard (hope it sands well) and flowed nicely. I kept the volume mixed down (only mixed up a quart at a time) and whatever didn't fit in the primer gun I kept in a fridge in the garageso it wouldn't harden up in the pot. Didn't need to reduce it with acetone, and the garage was 75-80 degrees. Excellent product.

pestwagon
Sep 3rd, 08, 11:22 PM
I waited 2 days, sanded it (not guide coated) with 80 grit. Now I'm gonna guide coat it and sand it with 120. then guide it and 180.

baddbob71
Sep 4th, 08, 12:10 AM
I waited 2 days, sanded it (not guide coated) with 80 grit. Now I'm gonna guide coat it and sand it with 120. then guide it and 180.

You've got the right idea, many people think they need to reprime between grit changes and end up going through more materials than needed. The guidecoat will show you when to stop sanding. Epoxy and polyester products work very well together and the poly will never come back to haunt you with any shrinkage problems down the road.