Well, my dad dropped the block off at the machine shop for me the other day, starting to clean/magnaflux. I got my cam suggestion from UDharold and 427L88 so I should be good to go. One last time if anyone wants to see it..I'm getting kind of excited just because it's another motor to build (loved doing my 350) and it's my first big block. What do you all think? Any HP guesses? The car is my daily driver but power is fun..and don't worry, I'm responsible. Maybe go to the track a few times this summer too. Anyway, here it is:


Mark IV 454 14015445 casting ('77 truck block, 4-bolt main)
bored to 468CID
stock GM cast crank
stock GM rods from block, internally balanced
ARP bolts/studs ETC
Brodix Race Rites, 115cc with CNC chamber, assembled (springs to match cam, comes with competition valve job, valve bowl blend)
Lunati 402A3LUN cut on a 112 LSA (276/284 at .020, 243/251 at .050, .586/.600 valve lift)
some sort of good rockers to suit valvetrain (rollers?)
Carter 172-gph mech. pump with 1/2'' fuel line
SRP 139515 (23cc dome, should achieve 10.2:1 SCR running 93 octane)
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake (alum.)
Holley 850 CFM double-pumper
K&N air filter
Accel HEI distributor
Muncie 5-spd=M22 ratios with .68OD
4.10 rear with posi (12-bolt)
true dual exhaust with 1 7/8'' headers and Hooker Aerochambers, 3'' piping. (electric cutouts for racing/fun)

What you guys think? Might be 'slow' on the track with a manual tranny but as for overall power and fun on the street I think I've got a winner, and am pretty excited..anyway, thanks to all the people who helped me out and guided me on this. Things are underway. I have a really good machinist at home to help me along the way as well, and I hope to have this together and some pics before I come back to school from Christmas break!

I like it. A modest estimate would be 450 horses/450 torque. It wouldnt surprise me at all if it was actually about 470+ horses and more like 500ft lbs if those heads are as good as I hear. It outa be deep in the 11's as long as the driver dont need work..hehe. And it wont necessarily be slower with the stick. If anything, it will MPH faster cause the stick tranny will put more power to the pavement, but once again, depending on the driver, it usually isnt as consistent as an auto tranny. If your real good though, the car can be a bit quicker with a stick. Good luck. Definitely post results after its all said and done.

What kind of issues did your machinst have getting a stock 454 GM crank and rods to balance internally?
What led you to a 112LSA? Just curious smile.gif

Well I haven't had him do that yet so I'm not sure (concerning the balancing). He's been doing work for a while and is a very good/reputable machinist and does a lot of circle track type cars/sprint cars, so I'm sure he'll be able to do alright.

The reason I'm doing the 112 LSA is, yes normally it is ground on the 110 LSA, but I am running power brakes/steering and A/C so Harold recommended it be ground on a 112 LSA specially so I can have some vacuum.

That should be good for well over 500 horsepower, and probably 550 ft-lbs. I personaly dont like the M22's first gear, but with those gears and the OD it should work good with engine. Hope it will handle the power smile.gif

Where's compression going to end up?

I'm not sure about DCR but I believe the static compression should be about 10.2:1, and that's with the block zero decked to 9.780. I have the option of for $100ish more to get a 110cc chamber, which should bring the compression up to 10.7:1. Not sure how much it's worth it unless you or someone else has any good advice.

Stupid question, but what speed is the driveshaft going to be turning at speed down the road b/c I have read where it can be a problem if excessive!!

pdq67

For a "novice" bbc, I wouldn't go 10.7 cr even with an AL head with a 276 cam. Although the 112 lsa....

I think Harold wanted to make sure his PB would work. But I think a 110 would still have been ok.

A lot of people want to know how a 276 will run in a 454. Keep us posted..

I'd bet its gonna cost a bundle to get it internally balanced with a stock crank and rods. How much performance difference with an internally balanced 454?

pdq, what do you mean about the speed the driveshaft is going? How can it get excessive (I've really never heard of this before).

Scott, I think the 112 is just to be certain about the PB, which is OK for me since the car is my daily driver and I want to be sure of safety first.

Robert, why would it be hard to balance with a stock crank and rods? I've not heard of there being a problem before. What am I missing? Is it because typically it is externally balanced?

Thanks all.

Taylor

Paul ment that with an OD trans, stock drive shaft, & 4.10 gears, you can very easily exceed the rated rpm of the drive shaft. You'll need to research it. And probably get a bigger diameter drive shaft made. $300 minimum.

A stock crank with stock rods will require a lot of mallory metal to balance. $$$$$$$$$$$

Not necessary for your use so save some money...

Alright, if it's going to cost a lot that I don't need done then I won't worry about it. I just thought it was something I should really do. Thanks for the advice. I guess just stick with balancing the flywheel and using an external dampener?

Sounds like a sweet setup. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

If I had to guess, I would say at least 525hp.

The only thing that I would change would be grinding the cam on a 108 LSA, but then again I don't have power brakes. :D

I'm glad it's coming across as set-up. I've tried to research/ask enough questions to make this really well thought out and not be a slap-together of parts. Again, I'd really do appreciate all the advice from everyone here.

Knowing little what I can about cams I can see how people would think the 110LSA is alright, but again as my daily driver, running PB, BS, and AC at once, I'm sure it's better to be safe than sorry, and I can sacrifice power for safety, and I think UDHarold saw that and went ahead to reccomend the 112 LSA.

525HP huh? Is that at the flywheel or wheels? Just curious which were you estimating.

Again all, I appreciate all the help and support..thanks.

I think 525HP at the flywheel is doable.

I saw an article recently (I know, take magazine info with a grain of salt :rolleyes: ), don't remember which one, did a buildup on a 427, 10:1 SCR, Howards solid cam (about the same size as yours), a set of ported OEM open chamber ovals, dual plane and it made a smidge over 500 HP (510??).

Do you have the carb yet? If not you might consider a 950HP instead of the 850. I was running a JET Stage 3 prepped 850 Holley (flowed around 920cfm) and switched to the 950. Don't think I gained any HP, but for street driving the throttle response was much "crisper". Just a thought. smile.gif

Hmm, thanks for the tip. I'll check out the differences and such between the carbs.

So I guess I shouldn't balance with stock stuff, if it's going to cost a lot? Do I just need a balanced flywheel and balancer instead?

Remmeber the Car Craft big block challenge? With less compression, head, and cam (Comp XE274H), it made 533 hp and 565 ft-lbs with an Air-Gap. Of course on the generous dyno.

Taylor
I'm throwing this in just for fun. You WILL pick up 25-30 HP by running a Dart or Brodix single plane manifold on your combo, but at the expense of torque below about 4700 rpm. The Airgap will actually be the more powerful intake for your application, a heavy Chevelle, especially with a new Holley 950HP DP which is an awesome carb for your setup. (big bucks tho)

The Airgap is a dual plane, right? How much more power do you think we're talking about? I think a single plane would have to be a know as this is my DD, but that's good info to know.

I think that I might stick with the performer RPM for now, to save a bit of money and then later I could upgrade something if I want and be happy with more power, and if I wanted something fun to do with my engine.

Thanks for the input.

Also, later down the line, I am going to want to swap to a functional cowl induction hood set-up. What kind of clearance issues are common? Isn't it mainly based on height of intake?

There not saying that you shouldn't balance the engine, just not an internal balance. Save your money and get an external balance with a good flexplate and dampner for a 454. Trying to do an internal balance with a neutral balance flexplate and dampner will cost a small fortune in mallory to get the stock crank to balance right.