Right now i have a 350. I am in the process of saving money to make a 550 hp 383. What are your guys suggestions for parts? (heads, intake, carb, cam, etc) I am going to buy a 383 kit, but i just wanted some suggestions.
thanks fellas

For that hp level you'll need a roller cam, solid or hyd roughly 240 duration @ .050, a good set of heads like AFR, Brodix race rites or track 1's with the CNC port option, maybe a 850 cfm carb, 1 3/8 pipes at the most. I'm a big fan of the RPM air gap intake.

All of this will depend on the application of coarse. Whats the car used for, how heavy is it, what rear gears, etc?

Hope this helps!

Did you mean 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" primaries? I agree cept will a dual plane rpm really support 550hp!? I would go single plane personally. Also 3" exhaust, 550hp you might even be in the 10's:)

Well, here is where I would start. Id probably shoot for 11:1 compression or a little more on a fully forged bottom end. Next in line, a standard 23 degree 210-230cc afr, canfield, or brodix(to name a few) with a 2.05-2.08 valve is gonna be what you should look for. It would be easier with a rotated valve angle head, but if the combo is well though out, rotated valve angle heads are not totally necessary at this horsepower level. Next, you could probably stretch a good dual plane that far with some work, and once again, a lot of forethough, but itll be easier with a single plane(edelbrock victor for example). The carb, an 850 double pumper would do it, but if this is gonna be mostly a hardcore drag racer, spring for a 950hp if you arent too concerned about conserving any street manners or fuel mileage(not that the 850 will be a far cry ahead on the street, but you know what Im sayin). For a camshaft, Id say a solid camshaft of about 248-255 degrees duration at .050 with about .540-.565 lift on a 108 lobe centerline would fit the bill. A mechanical roller would be best(or easiest), but the right mechanical solid can make the number as well, and save some bucks. Really, so can a hydro camshaft im sure, but for me, I dont like the idea of using a hydro cam really much bigger than about 236 at .050. I figure that if it will take much more camshaft than that to make the power, It would be easier with a solid cam of some sort, cause a solid/roller cam and lifter combo will take the rpm better than a hydro cam will tend to, plus the agressive lobe design of a solid/roller camshaft is capable of more power than a comparable hydraulic. Its not just the rpm issue that makes a solid cam a winner in this type of buildup. Valvetrain stability(or efficiency) will obviously contribute to your overally power production, so dont skimp on the rest of the valvetrain.
Your best bet is to have a long talk with your cam grinder of choice to see what they think is right depending on your overall combo, application, and expectations, but count on this to be a descent start. It might take a little more, and you may be able to pull it off with a little less, but it depends on how well everything works together. The better the combo, the more efficient the engine, and that will make it easier to achive big numbers with a little more mild specs on everything, as opposed to a combo that isnt as well though out(thats why you see some guys with super radical "sounding" cars that dont run quite as fast as you would think it would based on what your hearing). Its all in the whole combo(including drivetrain and suspension and everything, not just the motor). Oh yeah, as far as headers go, a 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 is about where you want to be. Good luck.

Woops, 550 HP out of a 383? To reach that goal you will have to build one agressive little mouse! You'll probably need a big cam, big headers and a single plane intake. All things which will hurt low end torque. You'll have to rev that engine way up high and probably need a high stall speed converter. That thing won't be very streetable IMHO. If you are after good timeslips then that's ok, but if you are looking for a mean machine for the street you might want to go for maximum torque instead of maximum HP. You also might be able to reuse many parts of your 350 if you go the torque way (headers, intake, etc). That could save you a lot of money and I bet it will be more fun on the street.

Good luck man!

Olli

I'd build a 450 HP 383 and spray it with a 125 HP shot graemlins/thumbsup.gif ;)


..an honest 550 HP 383 is going to be a handful on the street..it might be easier to look at things differently..if you where to go the track,what kind of ET would you want to run? After you answer that question,its a lot easier to select components to build your combo..JMHO and experience.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/84459/index.html

graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Having a 383, I doubt they made that much power with a 294S. It's only 20 deg bigger than my cam which doesn't equal 80-100hp. And from what I can tell, everybody with a dyno wonders how that Westech dyno makes so much power.

As a guess, I'd go with a 4blt block, Scat rotating assembly.
AFR 210's or Brodix RR200's w/CNC chamber. Note: these take a 1206 felpro gasket so you have to get an intake that will fit. RPM's don't fit too well.
Or on a tight budget, a set of Canfield's 200's with a little bit of port work. What ever piston will get you 11-1 CR with the chamber size of your head. Cam, a SR in the 240-250 range at .050. For a "smaller" cam to get you there.
You might ask Harold if a 288/296 solid would get you to 550hp. It's a lot cheaper to got Flat tappet. Regardless, you need to decide on cam first so you can order your heads with the right springs. It saves money.

Edit:
Budget wise, a single turbo charged 350 will be faster and cost about the same or less.
But it won't attract any attention till you lift the hood. It'll have a stock idle.
Search on screen name turbodave or turbomagnum if your curious.

I second Chris's suggestions, build a good durable, streetable 450HP NA engine, then spray it with 125-150 HP shot.

A forged bottom-end, 10-10.5 SCR, a set of 195 AFR's, solid lifter cam in the 240-250* range (possibly a mild solid roller), RPM-AirGap and HP750. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Comp Cams has a nice selection of tight-lash solids that will get you 500-575 horsepower and 500lbs.+ torque.you can forget street manners though.you will need at least 4000 stall and 13:1 compression with these bad boys.personally,i'm gonna try a smaller Speedway Motors oval track tight-lash solid cam(about 450hp) and spray a 125hp shot of juice.Comp is good but i hafta go with Speedways price.

AFR 195 and a 401B1LUN but on a 110 LSA (280/288F10)should get you to 450 based on my combo.

Just take a look at whet I used on my SBC 400 and she easily was able to get 503tq without any tuning. My engine went on the dyno and the only thing I did was break it in then make some pulls. We did adjust the timing and carb change between a 3310 and 4779.
take a look at this info on my buildup, however remember its a 400.
Buildup W/ AFR 195 (http://community.webshots.com/user/dtl504)