I have a 68 wagon, it will be used for highway and around town cruising. Possibly also towing a 5 thousand pound trailer, If I can get the chassis set up right. If not then I will be towing a Utility trailer with a couple of ATV's..about 2K pounds.

The rear is a 10 bolt 3:42 posi and the trans is a built 2004r. Converter stall yet to be determined.

I just bought a stock 454 out of a 1989 GMC pick up. It is a 4 bolt block, with stock internals and manifold. Originally with a q-jet that has been changed to a 750 Holley. I don't know the CR but the cranking compression is about 180-182.

I would like to limit my work on this engine to cam/manifold/carb and ignition. Looking for a generaly smooth idle with a little rumble, good vacuum and reliably streetable. But don't get me wrong I'd like to be able to tear up the tires around town when my right foot gets itchy :D

An suggestions or proven combos gladly appreciated.

Speak slowly and use small words, I'm a Small Block Guy. This is my first time entering the world known as The Big BLock.

Rob,a Performer RPM and an HEI will be perfect.
Summit sells $79 headers too.
I would leave the cam thats in it if its running fine,especially since you have the added performance with the 3.42's and 2004R,I would leave the motor alone,just get the RPM intake,a 3310,headers,and an HEI.The Flowmaster or Jegs 2.5" exhaust kit will give you plenty of rumble.A stock 454 with those 3.42's and the steeper 1st gear of 200R4 will provide plenty of seat of the pants torque when you whack it :D
If I can run low 13's/high 12's with 2.73's and a mild 454,a stock one with gear should feel good IMHO graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I think a lot of people underestimate how much fun a stock 454 with basic upgrades is,especially with 3.42's..and it will light the tires up no problem.

Mr. 4 Speed is correct. The car will be a blast! They weigh about 4400lbs, but will go like stink.
I'd also consider a small cam on the order of a Comp 270H.

My first forray into big blocks was a 68 Impala wagon. Let's see if anyone catches this.......
Mine was COPO car and came stock with an L72 427/425 horse engine, 4 speed and a 3.55 12 bolt posi. I tweaked it a bit and it ran low 13's! What a barge! But they were good looking cars.
If I still had that car, and the protecto plate (it was in the glovebox) it would be worth a ton of cash today. It might have been the only one built. Ah the memories.
Ron

Yuors is a Chevelle wagon....even cooler!
One more thing....the 89 rat might have "peanut" port heads......a great swap would be to add the normal oval heads. Wakes em up big time.
Nice car!
Ron

Early closed chamber ovals that is! Might as well get some compression out of the deal. If you were to swap out some early heads, then I would opt for a slightly bigger cam. With the current 8.5:1 setup you really can't use a much bigger cam. BUT with a closed chamber head swap, and 9.2-9.5:1 compression, you could put a slighly bigger bumpstick in there, maybe even as big as the UD 280/88 Chris runs.

If youleave the heads on there, I'd be tempted to leave the small cam in there too. Should be a hyd roller. Kinda $$$ to replace it. Wonder if its the same as the HO 454 cam? Those are available at www.competitionproducts.com (http://www.competitionproducts.com) as GM "take-out" cams pretty cheap!

I don't want to change heads right now mainly because of money. Remember I'm 'onabudget'. But I'm going to have to remove all the tinware to replace the old seeping gaskets, and with the intake out I figured it would be the right time for a cam. Even with my compression, can I benefit from a small cam change? If so, guide me in the right direction. I don't mind leaving in the stock cam...but I don't want to be sorry I did and have to pull it out later.

Also Gene stated I'm at about 8.5:1, does anyone know what the stock cam profile is?? I think this would help guage weather or not a cam change would help.

Thanks for the replies and keep 'em coming.

Rob

You can go to your local library and check there reference books for the compression. About 8.2 I think. And when I spoke with Harold he stated I could run the 280/288 with no problem but since you are towing the 276/280 may be a better choice. Give Lunati a call. Can't hurt! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Anyone know what he's got in there now? Hyd roller, hyd flat tappet?

If it's GM # 50481092, I'd leave it be.

I wont have the engine home until Sunday, so as for now the only numbers I have is the Casting # of 14015445, and that It was originally a carburated 4bl. engine, 1989.

Rob,
An '89, carbed 14015445 casting would still be a flat tappet block. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
A low grunt truck motor...Sounds like fun. Wagons need torque. :cool:
IMO, leave it as is. Probably peanut port heads which would most likely require a valve spring upgrade with any cam swap. Then, you'd still be restricted by the small intake ports.
Or as mentioned, a closed chamber head swap.
Now you're talkin'! :D

The best research I could find shows the stock cam specs to be:

Dur 196@.050, Lift 398 with 113 lobe ctr.

Seems awful small to me, but I'm a small block only guy. The only big block I have any experience with is the 454 in my 6300 pound suburban. The HO cam stock in a 454 is 220@.050 with a 500 lift on a 115 lobe.

I understand the reasoning for the leave the stock cam opinions, but wouldn't a low rev RV cam somewhere in the middle between the stock cam and the HO cam benefit even with the peanuts.

OR, is it just not worth the expense, for not too much gain...that I can relate to BTDT.

Rob,this is JMHO..
With all the lifter failures out there,I think staying with what you have is ain't a bad thing..for now.You could always add a mild cam later if you're not too happy with the performance,but a stock 454 can certainly be fun,as long as you have some gear,which you do,plus a nice 2.5" exhaust to give you the "sound" while cruising.I'm sticking with your "onabudget" build up :D
It'll sound good,do nice burnouts,and pretty much be all done by 4500,maybe 5000 rpms leaving it stock.
A clean up,some new gaskets,new timing chain,a few cans of Chevy orange,and off you go.To maximize it in stock form,the RPM intake,headers,and a 3310 Holley will be all you need.Plus a nice aggresive timing curve.Your 3.42's will do the rest graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Again,JMHO

I hate to say it but I bet you are closer to a stock, 7.9 to 1 then 8.5 to 1 CR. so really suggest a head change to the early, closed chambered large ovals like the -206's or -215's along with shim headgaskets to bring it up...

Your little cam is upping your cranking pressure, not your heads..

I wouldn't throw an RPM cam in such a low CR. motor!! Go with a 268 to 274 cam instead... Imho....

pdq67

If you want a proven cam, get a Lunati 302A4LUN.
This cam is 272/272 at .0045", 217/217 at .050", .515"/.515" valve lift, and 112 LSA. It pulls about 370 BHP on conservative dynos with stock CI int and exh. It idles about 550-600, and pulls around 21" of vacuum. In Duallies pulling 28' race-car trailers, it gives around 8.5 to 9.5 mpg, vrs 4 to 6 mpg with the stock cam. I have had many reports of 100,000 mile life out of this cam, and it is MY favorite for stock-type engines.
I put one in a 460 Ford for the local police, they said the city-patrol mileage went from 8.5 to 11 mpg, and it was fast enough on the top-end to 'float' the front of their Crown Vic!
For what you are doing, you will love this cam.

UDHarold

BTW, to deliver this perforomance, the cam needs to be in around 106 intake CL.....

Rob, lifter failures nothwithstanding, if you're right about the cam that is stuffed in there, adding , oh, what .100 to lift will be a real help! Something along the lines of what Harold mentioned is perfect. .500+ lift, short duration. Be sure to stuff it in well advanced.

OK, so now I have a decision to make...I hate that. I must say that I am leaning to leaving the stock cam in, and just adding a few bolt ons.

Although, I like the Idea of giving it a little cam. I'm just not sure if it is worth the cost. I don't know if I can go with the cam Harold said and keep my valvesprings...I doubt it, therefore the cost goes up.

Maybe I'll leave it as is and look for a set of heads in the mean time, I could always mess with it later after I've driven it for a year or two.

If so, what casting numbers should I look out for in a set of budget minded Ovals.

I got that archived Harold b/c THAT'S GOOD INFO!!!

pdq67

All through the 1980s and 1990s we used the 272H, the 276H, and the 276/286H with STOCK BBC valve springs. If your head uses exhaust rotators, you may have to take them off.
Obviously, if your springs have been on the engine a long time, new aftermarket replacement springs are always a good idea.

UDHarold

Thanks Harold, your absolutely right. I am still considering the cam swap, just havn't been able to make a good budget plan for this project.

Anyway, keep any suggestions coming and thanks to everyone for the help thus far.

I just got the engine home from CT. yesterday. It turned out to be out of a P-30 chassis truck. Once I gunk it down, I'll post the head castings.

Rob

Originally posted by UDHarold:
If you want a proven cam, get a Lunati 302A4LUN.
This cam is 272/272 at .0045", 217/217 at .050", .515"/.515" valve lift, and 112 LSA. It pulls about 370 BHP on conservative dynos with stock CI int and exh. It idles about 550-600, and pulls around 21" of vacuum. In Duallies pulling 28' race-car trailers, it gives around 8.5 to 9.5 mpg, vrs 4 to 6 mpg with the stock cam. I have had many reports of 100,000 mile life out of this cam, and it is MY favorite for stock-type engines.
I put one in a 460 Ford for the local police, they said the city-patrol mileage went from 8.5 to 11 mpg, and it was fast enough on the top-end to 'float' the front of their Crown Vic!
For what you are doing, you will love this cam.

UDHarold

BTW, to deliver this perforomance, the cam needs to be in around 106 intake CL..... Harold, I would like to start the cam swap soon, but would like your input on the VooDoo line for my application as well. Which way do you think I should go. Can I get your contact info to order a cam as well?

Rob

years ago when i got started with the bbc my first was the 396 bbc.

in a 3700 lbs camaro with 2.56 gears and a 396 that had 7.7 to 1 compression bone stock open chambered heads, stock low rise cast iron intake and small holley carb. with a just the 272 crane cam- 216/216 @ .050" with .515/.515 lift and open headers it ran 14.40's at 99 mph and could lay rubber for what seemed to be forever. (of course it was just one tire...lol)

cranking compression was 150 psi. and wanted 42 degrees total on the timming.

Rob...FYI..the cam we chose for the stock 73 454 we have will be a Howards..specs are:
222/234 @ .050
.500/.505
114 LSA
The budget is limited,$150 max,and this is a cam/lifter kit for $104
I'd love to see motor use one those .515 lift Harold grinds,but funds won't permit it.

We'll be using 1 3/4" primary tubes,Performer intake and a 700 double pumper.
Shoud be a blast in an 80 Malibu with 3.42's/TH350 with a 10" TCI convertor

Thaks Chris,
Let me know how you make out with that cam.

Hopefully Harold will chime in on whether he thinks I'd be better with that 272 he listed above, or with something off the VooDoo line.

Rob

Harold you out there.

Rob,

The next cam larger than the 302A4LUN is my VooDoo 262, part number 60202. It is 262/268 at the seat, 219/227 at .050, .530/.542 valve lift, and 112 LSA.
We have not dynoed the VooDoo against my earlier designs, but take my word for it, the VooDoo makes a lot more power. Of course, if I had a dualie towing a race car trailer, I know the 302A4LUN will work superbly........
We should have some of these on hand shortly. We are trying to fill all the big orders first, and as we make these only 50 at a time, we're swamped under. I had one of the SBC 60102's in my hand Monday, checking the taper--QC, you know.
I had at least 50 of them...

UDHarold

---I will be off the computer for a while. It took me 3 1/2 hours to get to work today---47 miles and the blizzard last night.

Almost 3 years later I'm finally getting around to this engine.

To refresh your memory its a 89 4 bolt truck block Stck bottom end. I'm doing a cam, heads & intake on it.

I'm going to be at 8.6 to 8.8 CR depending on the heads 390's or 215's and how much they get milled on the rebuild.

Goal is still the same minus the towing aspect. A fun, reliable, no hassle driver. ( that I can beat up pretty good when I visit Gene in Niagara Falls every July)

Question arose regarding piston to valve clearance. Was planning on ordering the Voodoo 262 (530/542 lift) on Tuesday, but now I'm unsure.

My other choice would be the Lunati Cam Harold recommended in 2004. (Lunati 302A4LUN. 272/272 at .0045", 217/217 at .050", .515"/.515" valve lift, and 112 LSA.)
Third could be the Voodoo 256 at 515/530 lift.
What do you guys think?? My main concern now is that I don't want to have a clearance issue.

Please reply back as I need to get the parts ordered soon as my completion deadline is 4/7. Waiting now on the machine shop to decide on the heads which should be done by the end of next week.

Thanks
Rob

Ttt

Rob,go with the VooDoo 262
You will NOT have any p/v clearance issues

FYI we ended up using the Summit 228/238 @ .050 .540/.540 114 LSA cam in our stock 1973 454 with my old #215 heads

Got into the mid 13's at 102 MPH with no tuning,a crappy 60 ft. and using a 2.25" exhaust in 1980 Malibu

Rob,

Please post the head casting number. I have a 34' motorhome that is based on a P30 van chassis. It has the same casting number block that your's is and I have been contemplating building the motor in a stealth way so that it will still pass the visual in Kalifornia's emissions program. I was thinking that the head castings would be 781's. If that's the case I'm going to stroke the motor I have and make it a 496 (invisable from the outside :D ) and leave the 781's on it. I figure I can change headers for exhaust manifolds every two years at smog time. My only other obstacle is what to do for an intake manifold.

You know I have a disease when I can't even leave the motorhome alone and not hotrod it :D .

Lance

Rob,

Please post the head casting number. I have a 34' motorhome that is based on a P30 van chassis. Lance


The original heads are peanuts, 14092360. If your engine is carburated it probably has these heads. But could also be 14081045 or 10052902.

The open chambers 360's on my engine had a CR of about 7.8. Switching to a 390 or 215 closed chamber will bump the compression about a point on average.

If you leave the heads on, then a swap to the cam Harold reccomended earlier would be perfect for a motorhome I would imagine.

Rob,go with the VooDoo 262
You will NOT have any p/v clearance issues

FYI we ended up using the Summit 228/238 @ .050 .540/.540 114 LSA cam in our stock 1973 454 with my old #215 heads

Got into the mid 13's at 102 MPH with no tuning,a crappy 60 ft. and using a 2.25" exhaust in 1980 Malibu


Thanks for the help Chris:thumbsup: