Bailing wire anyone? :D

Seriously...I'm trying to make a cold air box to work with my new Glasstek cowl hood. I think what I've got is a good start, but I've got a few decisions to make and was hoping to draw on someone else's experience to help my design along. Here are a few pictures of what I've got so far:

pic 1 (http://kjett.home.mindspring.com/Images/coolbox1.JPG)
pic 2 (http://kjett.home.mindspring.com/Images/coolbox2.JPG)
pic 3 (http://kjett.home.mindspring.com/Images/coolbox3.JPG)

In my design I've left a 2" radius around the breather base. I've been mocking this up with poster board and duct tape, once I'm done I intend to take it to a local shop and have it fabricated from aluminum so I want to get it right the first time. Here's where I need help:

1). The carburetor is at an angle opposite the hood. Therefore the pan needs to be higher in the rear than the front. I'm not sure the best way to measure this since I can't see it with the hood closed graemlins/clonk.gif I thought about using a level and protractor to get the angles of the hood and the breather base and use the two to determine the rake required for the breather. Problem is I'm not too good with math.

2). I'm undecided about how the rear of the box should be made. Right now I have a back panel but it's only there to help stabilize the prototype. I'm kicking around two ideas for the finish product. First, I could simply leave the rear completely open forming a "U" channel towards the rear of the engine compartment. Lengthwise the rear of the box stops about ~1" away from the distributor (and clear from the coil and it's connections). Another option would be to radius the rear of the box upwards towards the cowl opening. This might help to smooth air entry into the box. I guess the real question is how well sealed off does the rear of the box need to be?

Has any one else done something like this before? Any tips would be appreciated. If you think this is a waste of time I be interested to hear why. Right now I'm only out $.78 in poster board and a couple bucks in duct tape smile.gif

Thanks.

Ken,

I just went through this and I don't think I reported the results of my testing.....

No Gain..BUT it ran more consistent from first to last pass, in fact after It was installed I won 3 of 5 times in my class..coincidence maybe. but I am leaving it on for luck purposes at least.

I got the angle close and used the foam from Moroso to make up any variances. I also glassed in tin on the underside of my hood and made a hole in the tin. I used a lengthened carb stud to mark the underside of the hood to show me the exact center of the carb.

Hey Ken whats up? I don't have any tips on making the box but I Know you are always trying to get your car faster. I don't think anyone will be able to know whether or not it will help you car. Although I am sure people could argue about it ;) If machine shop costs aren't too much i would definetly go for it, It for sure ain't going to hurt you, and it will be nice to say you designed it yourself! Also be sure to make passes with/without the box and let us know if it does actually help since i see you also changed the intake to a vic jr graemlins/hurray.gif Good luck!

Thanks, Tom. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of your setup you could post? The Moroso foam is a good idea. I had been looking at their pre-made cold air boxes but they look like they're made for a snokel type setup. What was the tinning for, to help you determine the profile and orientation of the box?

First off, I have no experience in this, but I had a thought about the angle to the hood:

If you have more poster board, make another U shape. Cut some vertical slots (3@ 3"?) in each U shape, and bolt them together through the slots just finger tight - the second U shape should sit notably higher than the first one. Close the hood very gently onto the upper U shape and it should slide down until the hood stops closing. When you open the hood, you should have a close approximation of the hood angle all around. tape the two Us together. Maybe trim off a little bit for foam allowance or whatever will mate to the box.

Maybe that is a silly idea, but I thought I would throw it out there... smile.gif

Ron

Ken,

I knew you would ask about the pictures...LOL..I will be able to take some after the holiday.

My air box around the carb is nearly identical to yours. My hood has a 2" cowl and I made it flat across the bottom of the cowl using tin and then fiberglass to hold it in. this created a 2" opening at the windshield the width of the scoop. the air pan similar to yours seals up against the new section on the underside of my hood with the air cleaner sticking up into the cowl and sealed all around with the foam.

try finding a nascar one. or you can use a centi type air box that might work. im trying to do this for my car too. i have a snorkel though.

i was just going to say i did the same thing for an L-88 hood on my camaro with a 2 1/2" cowl.............take the hood off and flip it over and cut a piece of tin (make sure its stiff enough) to reach acroos the cowl of the hood............and fiberglass it on.........

once that was done then you can for the most part keep the design you have for your box and seal it to your fresh tin on the hood......i used playdoo for my height measurement.....

the tin gives you a flat area for your cold air box to seal against....i used trunk weather strip seal for my sealing to give it more of a stock type appearance besides it was less then 10 bucks for the weather stripping.........

it cost me like 25 bucks for a heating and cooling repair service place to make my box.....

the bottom of the box needs to be pretty stiff otherwise it can get flimsy.........

i would say go for it your car might respond very well to it.....everything i drive...lol i put a cold air induction on it...(even my ford truck im using mustang 5.0 K&N filter)....just because there is a chance it can make a few more hp......beside it gives me something to do since i cant leave nothing alone.

good luck post some pics when your done like to see them.........

Or try something from www.ramairbox.com (http://www.ramairbox.com)

kjett....I made one a while back, although it looks like the pictures I had on another link at this site are gone. I ended up using the barry grant air horn and then a flat piece of aluminum than fit just inside the cowl area of the hood. I then used the moroso foam and cut it in half width wise to allow for more room for air.

ken i had a buddy glass the bottom of my cowl and then cut a hole big enough for the air cleaner to fit through and then used the morroso air pan to sealit at least now i now the air it is getting is the cooler outside air 35 dallars for the pan is all it cost me it is nice to have a few good frinds

junk who sells the pans and what does it look like thanks.

im pretty sure i got the pan from jegs or summit its made by morroso its a alimume pan excuse the spelling with foam that seals the hood they make them for either 1 or 2 four barrels .the pan is in two pieces so you can make it any lenth you need it works well with my cowl hood or the snoorkle hood i have on the chevelle. it was right at 35 dallars if you had akses to the pan material you could probable make one for 15 dallars

I'd like to see a pic of the air box off of the car. Just so I can tell how it mounts up. It's something that I'd like to give a shot at.

On a side note, Ken, what brand of spark plug wire looms are you using? I'd love to have a setup that clean. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Two words: Aluminum flashing. smile.gif

Check out pmullaly's stuff. His link is currently down right now.

found it...
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/pmullaly/TPIENGFWD.JPG


is his bio info, shoot him an email. Real friendly guy, with one sweet cold air EFI setup.