Is this performance??? he he he smile.gif ;) tongue.gif
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We need some place on this site just for pictures. Does anyone else agree? :cool:

Judging from your stated performance, the 12.95 @ 106 mph in a 3170# car doesn't calculate to the 580 hp listed on your page.

580hp is estimated flywheel hp, by the engine builder. I haven't had it on the chassis dyno yet. I also am running radial tires and no hood during the drag racing that I did. I was spinning both tires past the 60 ft. mark. Thank you.

In my sons words

"dad, is there something wrong with that car? theres ALL KINDS of smoke & stuff coming from the back end of the car, how come?" ROFLOL.

Bob

I am running a 3:55 gear in the rear. A 3:73 or 4:11 would probably get me down another second or so, once I get the traction problems addressed. All it takes is time and money!!

NO its not! And, 106 mph is hardly 560 hp, and a gear change to 3.73 or even 4.10 will not come any where close to picking you up a second. The gear change may be worth .1 to .2 at best. You need more converter for you combo as well, and some slicks or ET streets. There is some ET to be found here, but not a full second with a gear change. :rolleyes:

Jason,

Your engine builder is pulling your chain.

As I said before two weeks ago in the pinion angle discussion, you are working with at best 400 flywheel HP.

You have a good running combination for what it is and should be proud of your car and take the next 6 months to fine tune what you have and not just throw $$$ and expensive parts at it.

Swapping to a 3.73 or 4.10 gear in your combination may net a 0.1 or 0.2 at best improvement in ET with proper tuning....Not and Never 1 full second. I won't go into my experience but let's just say I have been there and done that on most every level including the performance of my current very specific combination design of motor, converter, gears, etc..

Please take a step back and face the reality of what you are working with since this will net you the most reward with your cars performance potential once you start the fine tuning process. Most new already well sorted out combinations can find .2 to .3 in ET for VERY little Money if one takes the time and discipline to really tune it and as a bonus learn a tremendous amount of knowledge along the way.

That's a really nice ride you got there! I wish my 71 was running 12s. It has an estimated 420hp at the flexplate...but I gotta reduce a lot of weight off it, as well as myself tongue.gif , get some better traction aids, and slicks. Then we'll see what I can run graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I agree, nice ride, runs good. I also agree with the other posts. I went from 4.11's to 3.42's and lost .00

My 383 probably has 400 flywheel hp, see sig.

What was your 60 ft?
Your 106 MPH indicates low 12's (12.30's or so w/traction)
Nice job regardless..just get it to hook,and don't change anything but tires (dot slicks or drag radials)
..and I agree w/everyone else as well.

My first pass 60' time was 2.501.
My second pass 60' time was 2.746
My third pass 60' time was 2.073
See guys I'm not getting traction. That is the problem!! How can you judge me or my car on our first time to the track?? How can you accurately determine hp with such a terrible 60' time?? graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif :mad:

I think they might not think you have as much HP as you (or your engine builder) says is because I think that even with those 60' times, 106MPH is a far cry from 580 HP.

Let's just say that the chassis dyno gives me a 420hp reading, at 7000rpm. That would be close to 560 flywheel hp, correct? Drivetrain loss coeffecient is close to 25%, correct? There are 2 kinds of dyno's here in town. One is the mustang dyno, which I have not heard good things about. I'm not sure the brand of the other one.

I just thought you guys would enjoy the pictures. I'll just remove them. graemlins/angry.gif :mad:

Originally posted by chevydog66:

See guys I'm not getting traction. That is the problem!! How can you judge me or my car on our first time to the track?? How can you accurately determine hp with such a terrible 60' time?? graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif :mad: I don't think you understand. Your MPH is a real good indicator of your power, regardless of your 60-ft. While I believe you have a real stout 355 with the Pro1 heads and a .560 lift cam, it's not 580HP. I would guess more like 400-450, and that's a real strong 355! 106MPH is fast, so you got alot of potential there, especially if that was your first run.

Don't get upset, nobody here is saying your car is slow ('cause it's not!). We just want to let you know you may be a little optimistic about it's power output. Although it's not real cool that we start bringin' this up after you post some nifty burnout pics...

I have a solid roller 454 that engine dyno'd at 565hp, and it is doing 116 through the traps (hopefully a bit more with the new converter).
I had a dyno guy run every trick in the book on me and with a few keystrokes added 90hp to the dyno run.
Don't get discouraged, everyone including myself except the people who do it themselves get sold on something that isn't there. Live and learn.
I ran the almost exact same mph with a 2.4 60' and a 1.825 60'.
when I had my first BB built, the dyno guy called me and asked if I wanted to drive down and see the dyno run, he said it would make 650hp. It came out at 564hp using a velocity stack, dyno headers, and electric water pump. He didn't say anything, and neither did I.
Inflated #'s are a big problem in the industry, my cam guy went off on a big rant on this with me, (after I got a little bitter on my hp gain from tiny hydro roller to big solid roller).
If you run a dyno pull backwards, (drop from high rpm to low rpm, at a very fast rpm per second, (from what he said anything faster than 300rpm/sec)) and adjust a few other things, you can add on well over 90hp to a dyno run.
Just don't get discouraged. If I knew now what I knew when I started in this hobby, I'd be alot better off and have more money to play with. Its a learning curve, and like i do in real life, I learn the hard way. Do it wrong, once or twice, then do it right.

Matt

It sure is fun to heat the tires before a run! Have fun with the car it's yours now so do what makes you happy! :D

Originally posted by chevydog66:
I just thought you guys would enjoy the pictures. I'll just remove them. graemlins/angry.gif :mad: =
chevydog,
Thanks for the pics, really cool.

I don't think any one is pickin on you they are just trying to give you the benefit of a lot of experience.
You have a lot of potential to lower your et with the MPH you have but you are going to find with some experience that your MPH will not change much between a good & bad run in regards to traction.
You can come very close to the HP you are making on any given day or run by the MPH but I never use ET as they are way too many variables.
The MPH is calculated in the last 66 feet of the track & again it will not change much when you start getting your car to hook.
If you assume an optimistic 4MPH improvement with traction you would be at 110
Now 110 is what we are looking at & it takes a certain amount of HP to accelerate a certain amount of weight to a certain MPH.
For 3200lbs it takes less than 400 flywheel HP to get to 110MPH.

Here is a little formula that has been around since at least the 70's & was used by Chrysler Corp. in their drag racing program & written up in the American Journal of Physics in 1973
HP=(.00426*MPH)cubed * WGT
I add about 50 HP to the number because trap speed is measured differently now than it was in the 70's.

EX:,,,,,,,.00426*110=.4686cubed=..1029*3200=330HP
Add 50 to be nice,,,380HP
I find this formula works pretty fair until you get into some of the very hi end cars like Pro Stock. I find with cars like these it will give you a higher HP number than you usually see, especially adding 50HP.

Again, nice ride & it ain't no slouch. Just start working with what you have, enjoy it & be proud of what you have accomplished.
Just be aware that someone is being a bit "optimistic" in telling you it has over 500 HP ;)

Not to change the topic hear but I don't know who you have talked to about mustang dynos but they are much more accurate than dynojets. What you probably heard is that someone's car made less horsepower on a mustange dyno than a dynojet. The truth is dynojets arent accurate at actually showing what the real hp is at the wheels. Usually one would see 25-40 more horspower at the wheels on a dynojet than a mustang dyno. This has to do with the way they measure the power. People like flash the hp numbers around but its not really relevant. There is a mustang dyno at the shop I work at and have had a few people complain that thier car made less power. We had explain the difference. Besides dynos should not just be used to find how much hp you have. They are great tuning tool. If you can afford it go for and tune your car and maybe then you make up some time at the track.

By the way your car is awsome and still very fast have fun with it.GL. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The car looks good. Don't worry about what others are saying but dyno it yourself if you want to know. My car can't do that but hopefully the one I'm building will.

Peter

Originally posted by 70chevelle15:
Not to change the topic hear but I don't know who you have talked to about mustang dynos but they are much more accurate than dynojets. What you probably heard is that someone's car made less horsepower on a mustange dyno than a dynojet. The truth is dynojets arent accurate at actually showing what the real hp is at the wheels. Usually one would see 25-40 more horspower at the wheels on a dynojet than a mustang dyno. This has to do with the way they measure the power. People like flash the hp numbers around but its not really relevant. There is a mustang dyno at the shop I work at and have had a few people complain that thier car made less power. We had explain the difference. Besides dynos should not just be used to find how much hp you have. They are great tuning tool. If you can afford it go for and tune your car and maybe then you make up some time at the track. He makes a good point. That also reminds me that even if your car is in "perfect tune" as told by the dyno, that does not mean it's in perfect tune according to the drag strip. I've seen several instances where the car didn't run the fastest even when the dyno showed the best power output. In the end, the strip is the real dyno.

That's very true matt, one of the best things you can buy is an air/fuel ratio meter for your car. I think they have some that you can put on your dash or wherever and then you can go to the dragstrip and tune it while your there. Lets face it the weather won't always be the same everytime you go so you have componsate. If you have an air fuel ratio meter, a timing light, and a local dragstrip you don't need to dyno it. Good luck man graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Chevydog, Nice Car, nice pictures and you gotta love the burnouts. I don't care what you run its nice, its classic, and it YOURS. You know what its capable of and if others second guess you, so be it. Very nice wether it has 580 hp, or 220.
Chris
P.S. not ment to offend anyone, he just wanted to show us some pics.