Hi,

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for through a search. I apologize in advance.

I'm looking at either rebuilding or replacing my power steering box and was interested in knowing if the quick ratio ones work ok for a 67 with a BB in it (if that matters) and/or 2" drop spindles? I've heard some say they restrict your turning radius and possibly other problems.

I'm just interested in opinions, facts, etc. about these. The old original is just a little boring to steer.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

I used http://www.powersteering.com/. He takes your stock steering box, converts to quick ratio. I haven't used it yet since I am putting my car back together. But it retains the stock steering stops, unlike most of the units available that have F-body stops, so you don't lose any turning radius. Should have the pump done also. Pretty nice guy too.

hope that helps

I'm running a 12:1 straight ratio steerbox in my '66 Elco, not a lot faster than the more common 12.7:1 IROC-style box. I got it from AGR.

I don't have any real internal stop issues.
However, the inner tie rod ends hit (impact) my Milodon 30955 pan, and have mushroomed the metal.
If not for this interference, I would have full use of the turning radius offered by the box, which with a stock pan used temporarily with a Mk.IV rat allowed for normal U-turns. Also, the GenVI has been lowered in the frame, sits on solid mounts, with .125" clearance between the crossmember and the bottom of the pan. If it were higher, the rod ends would be able to move further inboard during turning events.

AGR claimed that all GM boxes they sell have the same stops.
This box was very stiff when I first began to use it, and did not want to return to center, even with 6 degrees of positive caster. With valving from a '77-1/2 Z/28 in the pump there is just enough boost to overcome the latent (always present from now on) stiffness of the now broken-in box.

The late 2nd Gen Z/28 and the Trans-Am Constant ratio High effort steering boxes #7829773, 14:1 ratio, were always pretty quick and responsive in those cars. In my own '77-1/2 Z, radio delete and zero option, purchased directly from Chevrolet and immediately fitted with an aluminum ZL-1 engine, this steerbox was controllable and responsive enough to eat high-dollar eurocars on local canyon roads. We're talking full and crisp control in 4-wheel drifts and incredible sensitivity to road feel and steering angle. The 14:1 boxes allowed me to rarely need more than 1/2 turn from center, using a Vega-syle wheel with both hands on the lower 2 of the 4 spokes. This was like flying an aircraft with a wheel instead of a stick-- you only had to rock your wrists to drive the car under almost any conditions. The ratio was sufficiently fast to allow removal of the built-in rear suspension roll understeer and balance the car with throttle and steering input very precisely. The Camaro with this steerbox was regularly driven at 10/10ths, one hand on the wheel and the other on the Hurst while taking out cars such as Berlinetta Boxers, etc.

This would be a great "fast" box for a Chevelle. I recommend it. You will not need to run large amounts of positive caster to assist in return to center, a big advantage in the A-body chassis where lots of +caster is not always available without additional fabrication.
Remember, however, that the F-body and A-body have different steering linkage geometry, and the effect on one chassis will be slightly different on the other.

The difference in feel between the 14:1 box and the 12:1 boxes is felt mainly in intense situations such as Solo racing or other tight and constant duty events. On the street or the strip, the 14:1 boxes really shine.

This Autobahn-veteran 1980 chassis uses the 14:1 box and can be driven one-handed at 160+ mph. High-speed corrections take only about 2-4 degrees of steer at the hand at the very most. It gives full U-turn capability, and is happy with the Saginaw pump, does not require higher capacity, even when also using Hydro-boost brakes. The 12:1 straight-ratio box might just be a little too nervous under these conditions.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/aero80/camarotypecx.jpg


The box in this car is the 12:1 gear, and actually feels slightly slower than the 14:1 does in the F-body. Pretty ugly car, eh?
Even lowered, the front tires (245/60-15s on Street Light 7x15s @ 4" backspace) don't really cause all that much commotion against the fenders.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/aero80/elcosidesend.jpg

The car is no longer that low. I intend to return it to the lower height, but not by lowering the suspension (it's all adjustable), but instead by channeling the body on the frame. This is how it temporarily looks right now.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b203/aero80/elcosurfd.jpg

The older 8-point Camaro-style cage (welded to doubler plates on the floorpan) is gone and there is a new 8-point welded-to-the-frame cage going in (you can see the main hoop in the pix). Even the floor-welded cage had a big effect on chassis responsiveness and therefore steering integrity, mainly by forcing the front suspension to do it's job- there's a lot of flex in the A-body from the seats forward. One of the best improvements you can make to your steering is to give it a firm foundation to work in. It really does make a difference.

I know this is more info than you asked for, but perhaps you will find it interesting. I was hoping to give you sort of a "lay of the land" based on experience.

Eric

Thanks for your advice. I will definitely look into your suggestions. I'd say your cars look really nice Eric. Nice work.

Thanks again,

Tom