Just picked up a 66 Beaumont SD small block powerglide car complete (needs complete restoration) with lots of spare parts including a spare hood that is rusty at the front on the inside where it goes down.

Is it practical to repair this area and if so what is best technique.

thanks

MY buddy soda blasted his then used some epoxy primer.

Saw it after it was done but not before. It looked great.

I am referring to the underside of the hood, front edge.

I am not sure how bad your rust is, and that will certainly determine what repair path you should take. My car will be a nice driver when complete, and not a trailer queen, so the following method worked just fine for me. I had some very minor rust in the same area on the hood for my 64, maybe 3/16 wide by 1" long. I used a wire wheel on my drill to clean all the rust. Then I coated the inside area surrounding the rust with POR15. Once this was dry, I made sure that all of the POR that had dripped out to the underside of the hood was sanded or ground off, back to bare metal. Next, I mixed up some JB Quick Weld, and filled the small rusthole. Once dry, I sanded it down, just like you would with filler. I then primed and painted the underside in the factory satin (semi-gloss) color. You could never find the repair if you were looking for it, and it is a very durable repair. This method will work fine for small areas of rust, but anything much larger would probably be another story. If you have a lot of rust there, you may just want to search for another hood, IMO. FYI, I repaired similar rust like this in another vehicle over 5 years ago, using the same method, and the repair is still perfect.

Fist of all there is no such thing as a RUST CURE. The rust has to be Removed by Sand Blasting or Wire Brush or Acid then Neutralized.

A similar repair method as explained by Troy can be used with Epoxy. Ensure area is clean - wash with lacquer thinners and sand blast. Leave the area as is with weak metal and pin holes. Paint with Epoxy Undercoat brushing is OK. When cured use something like Lapages 24 Hr Metal Epoxy Glue similar as you would apply a filler. Wet Sand with coarse paper and apply another coat of Epoxy Undercoat. You now have a base to finish the surface with Light Weight Pro Filler. This method also works great around Windshield Channels, Rain Gutters, Hood and Trunk Lips or anywhere you find areas of marginal weakness and pin holes. You can also repair small holes by bonding metal patches, temporarily screwed with metal screws while the Epoxy Glue hardens.

What is nice is that you can repair without using a torch that warps and destroys the surrounding work area. I've used this method for years and can testify Epoxy repairs will far out last the life of the car.

The only thing about Epoxy Repair is that it is relatively expensive but you get what you pay for.

God, the "repairs and cures" that are given on this site sometime frustrate the crap out of me. Here is the correct way to repair a hood lip. This is demonstrated on a 1964 GTO hood. These hoods in repairable shape are worth about $1000...

Sorry some of the pics are a little out of focus, but you will get the idea.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture039.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture040.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture042.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture043.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture044.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture046.jpg
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/MakMetalFab/Jims%201964%20GTO%20389%20Trip%20Convertible/Hood/Picture047.jpg

Mike is absolutely correct that completely removing the rusted metal and replacing with all new metal is always the best way to do the job.

But I stand by my repair for a few reasons. 1. Many people here do not have the tools or expertise needed to do the type of repair shown in Mike's pictures. 2. Many people, myself included at present time, do not have the financial resources to invest hundreds of dollars into this type of repair. 3. Like I said in my previous post, I have a repair done by my method that still is 100% durable, and looks perfect after more than 5 years. So I simply cannot justify spending outrageous sums of money unnecessarily.

The way I see it, these message boards are a place for people to give advice, and express their opinions. There isn't always a black and white, or a wrong and right. Sometimes, but not always. Ultimately it is up to Sandy to decide how he would like to proceed. But at least he has a number of options. Isn't that the point? If Sandy had asked if a 427 was an option for a 64 chevelle, and I told him yes, then that would be giving false information. In these instances, I would hope that the people responding to questions of correctness, etc... would have extensive knowledge before posting a response. Even then there will be mistakes or arguments about what is correct and what is not, but at least there will be plenty of people to help Sandy.

One more point. I specified that my car is a driver. If it were being built to be a perfect trailer queen/ show car, I would possibly look to have all of the metal replaced as Mike demonstrates... It would just be nice to read through this forum without everyone bashing everyone else's posts on such a regular basis. If someone is flat out wrong, a tactful correction is all that is necessary. Geez...

160 MIG's TIG's, 26000Lb Pressure Washers, 50 Ton Presses, Air Hoists, 5 Hp IR Compressors, Presurized Sand Blasters, and the list goes on ...etc BUT most of all I had a Garage. I've built 3 Garages in my life but life goes on, nothing remains the same and things change, I can repair using Metal, make my own floor pans and do it professionally were no one could tell if it was not original. I've restored 69 Camaros, 70 Chevelles, 70 Corvettes, Jags, Austin Healeys, MG's ...etc and I'm not a professional but I do have a Grade A Auto Mechanic's License which I never used. I also have 4 years university in Math and Particle Physics which I never used. I was a Traffic Controller for 25 Years - LOL. I guess you could label me an addictive learner. I personally prefer to Gas Weld and do a better job then most can with a MIG or TIG and pride myself for the skill.

Metal FIX's are not possible if you don't have a garage - PERIOD. Considering circumstances, there are other ways and other products to FIX that are just as good if not BETTER then metal sometimes.

By the way I once owned a 65 Lemans 326 3 on the floor Goat. Your doing nice work on your's Mike :o

easy fiberglass hood..
sorry, just had to..

Thanks for the excellent description of options.