im tired of having exhaust leaks with my headers graemlins/angry.gif :( ......ive had heck with em and put a ultra seal mr. gask on one side and it was tickining some and i tightned the bolts a little and the other side is leaking so im putting my other gask on the other side and see if itll fix it........ but does anyone have ne trick to keep them from backing out when they get HOT...... :confused:

Tighten them 2-3 times after they've heat cycled and you usually don't have a problem. I also use the aluminum collector gaskets and they don't leak.

doubling up on the gaskets may help also.

You can also put high temp silicone on the gaskets.

Earl's oilites. spendy at $35 a pop, but so far they are the only ones that hold my "ultra expansion contraction" old alum heads.

Heck man, I had a header bolt FALL OUT on the way back from CB01. Sheesh. Thought I lost a lifter/lobe.

If you havent, or still can, I use a large flat file and draw filed the flanges nice and flat.

The trick is to use manifold gaskets if you are to cheap to get copper ones(like myself.) Make 'em tight, get 'em warm and retighten them. I use copper collector gaskets and I haven't had a problem since going to manifold gaskets, That was a LOT of miles ago. I regularly shut off my ignition to fill my exhaust with unburned fuel and turn it back on to make it backfire(LOUD!) and still have no problem.

finaly got it sealed up but it was ticking and crap at first so i just drove it got it hot and i guess the header and gasket swelled and sealed it off..... graemlins/clonk.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif thanx for all the advise u guys graemlins/waving.gif

I just use FelPro gaskets. I retighten them when I remember to. I've not had leak problems. You can put locktight on the bolts but I use neverseize. I've seen, but haven't needed, bolts that are cross cut on the ends. They are drilled and tapped and have a set screw that is tightened up to expand the bolt once in place. There is an ad in National Dragster. I use 12 point small head bolts (actually intake manifold bolts, they're chrome, ooooh). A long box wrench, modified as needed, will fit them allowing a good pull. I had leaks when using the small head hex bolts. I kept rounding off the corners because an open end wrench was the only thing that would fit them.

I use the Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal header gaskets. I've never had one leak. I have not had the bolts back out of it either since I have had the car done (5 years).

throw the gaskets in the garbage and seal the with copper plus silicon and let set for 24 hrs before starting to let the silicon cure it also keeps the bolts tight .more than likely when you work on the motor again you will have to pry the headers loose from the motor

I've found that you can use a longer header bolt, and a lock washer, and they'll never give you trouble again. The lock washers I use are called high collar (http://www.apachesales.com/product_detail.asp?pid=4624) washers. As far as the header itself, inspect the welds on the flange, make sure they go completely around, and are not thin in spots. If so, add some more bead to them and grind them flat with an abrasive disc, not a grinding wheel. The wheel can cut too fast, cause bigger headaches. I've used the Earl's collector gaskets before, work great. I've also used the aluminum collector gaskets. Your flanges have to be nice and straight to use aluminum or copper, or you'll get some minor leakage.

Hope this helps,

Darren

Welcome to the club...

I have copper gaskets on mine and they still leak a little. My headers are the kind that have 3 seperate connecting points rather than the flat piece that runs the length of the heads so I imagine my leaks are from header warpage.

Collector gaskets are leaking too...theyre double gaskets now but I'm gonna get copper for em

If you ever replace the gaskets, check and see how they are sealing. The Ultra seals won't work on my Heddman 1.5" headers.

Steve

You have to re-tighten header bolts 3-6 times when the engine is cool, after it has been hot. Here's the deal, the engine heats up, the header flange expands, the gasket crushes, the header cools, the gasket is loose. Until you've taken all the crush out of any type of header gasket, they will loosen and leak. Should get about 1/8 turn until the crush is gone.My headers NEVER leak, I tighten them over and over until they aren't loose when cool, then they never leak. Once a leak starts you are usually bumming, the hot gas will cut a path on the gasket.

Are they SportsmanII heads? Iron eagles?
(guessing they might be from the 72cc chambers)

I have S2's and in the World Products paper work it states 1 3/4" headers and nessecary. Will 1 5/8" or1 1/2" work? I have no idea but it does state 1 3/4" primarys are required.

they are just stocker heads.... would like a set of dart 64CCs :D but ive got it figured out now.....

I drill the bolt heads and safety wire them,
never have any problems

if you have a leak from the moment you start it up with new gaskets stop you have a problem somewhere. check the flange for straightness, check to see if the bolts are too long and are bottoming out befor pulling the flange tight to the head, i like the header studs myself, keeps you from pulling treads out of the head, check the gasket on the head and header flange, does it fit both? put bolts through the header flange and put the gasket over them, does it seal all the way a round on each port? do the same with the heads, meaning bolt the gasket to the head and check the fit! with new gaskets you should start it up and here no repeat no leaks, run it for 5 mins or so and then let it cool. retighten all bolts even if it means moving the ac compressor out of the way again. cut down the length of some open end wrenches to get to the back bolts. do the heating and cooling about 3 times and then check the bolts every three or four days on a daily driver and at every oil change still they no longer loosen up. i've had no problems with any gasket brand following these instructions.