Ok I dont know where to start!! I know there is one thing i need to do for myself that has been discussed on here before (not use a stock output 1-wire alternator w/under-driven pulleys and expect the best but im kinda stuck w/all of that for a while). I know its not good but thats the hand i was dealt!! I get about 11.5-12 at idle w/the electric fans on and the blinker goin!! I get 11.7 to the dist. w/the car off!! I know it needs to be 12 but i thought it was close enough and it has worked flawlessly for about 4 years!!! now it just craps out!! Could the draw directly off the battery like that at idle and stuff cause the battery to be bad and be my first problem?!?!?

The next problem start that my D.U.I. distributor module crapped out on me leaving no spark! Put in a used OEM HEI module and got spark and the car fired up!! But i was out driving and sitting at a stop light and the car died (w/blinker on and drawing off the battery b/c the volt meter was at about 11.8 or so) and wouldnt fire back up (after the tow found out when i got home, the used module crapped out)!!! Now i will list the problems i think are causing this and id like to see peoples take on if thats the problem and what a decent fix would be!!

1) The alternator isn't putting out at least 12volts at idle (due to 1-wire STOCK OUTPUT alternator and under-driven pulleys)!?!?!? IS THERE A WAY TO FIX THIS W/OUT GOING BACK TO 3-WIRE AND KEEPING MY NICE MARCH PULLEYS!??!
---POSSIBLY BY GETTING A HIGH OUTPUT 1-WIRE ALTERNATOR OR SOMETHING OF THE SORT I WOULD BE OK W/THAT JUST NOT BUYING A NEW REGULATOR AND RUNNING ALL NEW WIRE FOR THAT STUFF!!!
2) Not getting a full 12 volts (w/car off) to the distributor when battery is getting 12.8
--possibly due to a short piece of resistor wire (from the points ignition)
---COULD I SOLVE THIS BY RUNNING A NEW WIRE TO THE DIST. FROM A SOURCE THAT WOULD WORK BETTER!?!?!?!? IF SO WHAT!!???

3) Would not getting a full (but not that much far from a full) 12 volts to the distributor cause it to be destroying modules?? Im supposed to call D.U.I tomorrow but i wanted some info going into this!!!

Thanks for the help guys I greatly appreciate it!! I just got the car the way i want it and now this!!!

~Paul

Note: I WASNT THINKING, I DONT THINK I HAVE A ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR!! I DID THIS CONVERSION MY BUDDY TOLD ME ABOUT (ON THE PAPER HE PRINTED OF AND USED FOR DOING MY CONVERSION THEY CALLED IT THE 10SI CONVERSION) IT HAS 2-PINS ON THE TOP AND ITS FROM LIKE A MID 70s CAR LIKE A CAMARO OR NOVA!! SO IM NOT SO SURE THAT WOULD BE A TRUE 1-WIRE.

THANKS GUYS!!

You have to remember that auto wiring much before 72 and 73 are NOT DIODE protected to incorporate MPC (Transistorized - Micro Process Circuits). All Relays especially one handling Hi-Current like Fans and Head Light Relays have to have a DIODE across the + to ground of the Relay Coil. You say you are blowing Electronic Triggers in your distributor while idling. If you have an electric fan it will toggle off and on. When the points of a relay opens, that is shut off, the coil field collapses and can spike and EMF Charge of over 600 volts in a milli-sec that will burn transistors in MPC devices such as Breakerless Distributors, CD Modules and even the transistors in your Dash mp3 player. I would even go as far as putting a diode on the horn relay. Remember your old wiring was never designed to use MPC circuits.

I would get rid of the 1 wire alternator and buy a used $25 3 wire CS130 from the wreckers. One from an early 80's 305/350 GM Wagon usually have the belt pulley. Wire the OUTPUT and SENSOR wire the accessory terminal of the horn relay not the battery terminal or you will disrupt your milli-volt dash amp gauge. Wire all accessories from the horn relay NEVER the + terminal of the battery for this reason, that includes CD Modules, Electric Fans and mp3 players which more then likely is done through a dash auxiliary circuit. If you don't have a GEN or ALT light you will require a .5w resistor to simulate the load of the dash light or it will damage the CS130. The 10 or 12SI does not require the resistor. The 3 wire alternator is far superior to the one wire as it has an active sensor wire to read voltage difference much the same way the sensor wire running between the horn relay and the + battery terminal does for the GEN/AMP or mill-volt gauge does – what ever you want to call it but it is a “Milli-Volt Gauge”.

I would also suggest if your running Breakerless Distributor Triggers or CD Modules to replace the RESISTOR Ignition Switch to + coil wire with copper strand wire (No Resistance) for 12 volts. If you have to run points run a Dodge Ballast resistor. You only require resistance to lower voltage to approx 6 or 8 volts if you’re running points.

PS: Paul I suggest you change your member ID if you expect to get serious reply's from the PRO's.

Z, is that what i have then, a 1-wire alternator? See my buddy (who is supposed to be a mechanic that just graduated from wyotech) told me putting in this alternator would solve my head light dimming problem. Well...it didnt.

When the fans kick on the dont cause a real voltage drop at all. I cant even tell they are running from that stand point. Its more the head lights and the blinkers that cause a drop. It will drop voltage on the meter while im idling at a stop light before the fans even kick on (they turn on at about 185* and w/the aluminum radiator it takes quite a while to get up to that point). Everything i have wired up goes through the dash aux circuit. And my GEN light still works w/the new alternator (when the voltage drops low).

Lastly, i did re-wire the resistor wire with copper strand wire from as far down the resistor wire i could cut and solder. I have 11.7 volts at the distributor. Thanks for all the help!!! Ill see what i can do!!!

~Paul

P.S. trying to see how to change my ID

Ok guys, i have strayed away from the one wire alternator. But that isnt my problem now!!!

1)tried running a 10g wire to the dist. and getting a full 12 volts (almost there 11.8 volts)
2)tried a new module
----no luck
----- got it to fire a bit but no luck
3)Got a few fires (stared up) w/the used HEI and cap (DUI). Then nothing!!
4) Tried a few turns w/the used HEI and the Cap from it. cranks w/no "cough" of smoke outta the carb now (used to "cough" smoke after every time i cranked the engine)
5) Still no Spark!!!
6) Why might i be killing modules??
7) Checked (in the DUI dist) the pick up coil, the coil, the rotor and all check out in the parameters of the resistance!!

Any help would be great!! bout to send it off to the mechanic as soon as he can get me in this week (family friend and great mechanic) hopefully he can figure it out (no one else could from DUI or Summit)!! Thanks a lot guys!!!

~Paul

Did you have the alternator tested at your local parts store? The alternator creates A/C current which must be converted to DC for use in the 12v DC car circuits. If the rectifier in the alternator is partially bad it could kill some DC parts.

But I'm betting that if the alternator tests ok, that it's something simple such as a bad ground. Suggest you clean all electrical connections with a wire brush and try again.

Finally, if you have an old battery cable ...either one, dump it and get new ones that are larger in diameter. I have seen old ones that turn green inside where you can't see it under the insulation, further deteriorating the circuit.

Thanks for the tips Steve! Im curious, would this make my car start and run for a while, then die again?? I got it to fire up a few times last night. But then i just quit getting spark again!!

I checked all of my grounds everything seems to be in tact and working well. I have 1/0 wire for the battery ground and power wire, then some 4 AWG for the chassis to block ground. And a reg ground strap for the block to body ground.

I am completely at my wits end!! Thanks for all the help guys!!! It's not the thing i like to do, but i think i might have to bring someone else in to do the work this time, i am lost!!!

~Paul

Try running a wire from the ignition terminal of the fuse box direct to the distributor + side and disconnect the resistor wire and see if that works.

Nelson

That was the first i was told to try, i ran a 10 AWG wire to the fuse block, nothing!! Thanks for all the help guys!!! Im completely out of things to try!! Its going to the shop on monday. Not exactly how i wanted to fix this but i have exhausted all of my options up to this point! Thanks again guys!!

~Paul

Take the alternator off and take it down to the local auto parts store for testing.

You are putting heat sink compound under the HEI modules, right???? They will blow if you don't.

I had the exact same problem and it was the alternator. It would charge the battery some but not enough to keep it at 12V, eventually killing the battery. Got a new alternator and everything worked fine. Just be sure your HEI is getting the full 12V from the fuse block. Also, a battery that says 12V when you test at the terminals is not necessarily going to be the same as the battery with load. You should really check the alternator before you pay someone else to tell you your alternator is going.

Thanks Johnny, I did take the battery in to get tested. Tested out at about 12.7 volts and the lowest (under heavy load) was like 11.8. The alternator is brand new!! So i should hope it is good. Thanks for all the help guys!!!

~Paul

It wouldn't be the first time a "brand new" alternator was bad. Take it to get it tested.

Believe me i know that (its the second one i've had)!! Just got it like i said. The car is on its way to the mechanic. I am going to leave everything the same on it so he can see what all is going on w/it. And i am in the process of getting a new high out put alternator. I am just going to wait and see what all he says about everything first!! Thanks guys!!!

~Paul