....with the heads on?. Any body have an idea what a speed shop generally charges?. My motor dies at 4200 rpm even though the ignition components are new performance replacements. The motor has a cheapy stock $10 fuel pump though. The former owner told me it still has stock springs with the XE 262 cam and I really suspect weak springs. Am I on the right track here?. Thanks in advance! smile.gif

I have no idea if your springs are the problem but if you want to change them with the heads on you need to keep the valves up on the seats wich is usually done with compressed air. Make a fitting that threads into your spark plug hole and connects to an air hose. I'm also unsure of the ideal pressure to use but I'm sure someone else can chime in on that.

I assume your fule pump is mechanical and not a cheap electric one. It should be fine, my old as hell stock mechanical has no problem delivering fule for my 350 above 5000rpm.

Once springs start going away, the rpm they give out at usually gets lower over time. In my case, I was shifting at 7000, then over the last few months, the engine would give out at 6900 , then 6800 until it wouldn't run over 6600. At that point I shimmed the springs and now it pulls to 7200. If the problem has been getting worse, springs could be the culprit.

With the right tools, and easy access to the springs, it isn't hard to change them. Moroso (Summit has one that looks identical) makes a spring compressor that works great. You can either use air or stuff the chamber to keep the valve from falling. If you have PC seals, they will probably stay in place on their own. Once the covers are off and you're ready to go, it shouldn't take more then a couple or three hours.

I can wind first gear up to 5200 and shift it "manually" but if I just drive it "automatically" up to third gear it will only go to 4200.

Originally posted by 75c10:
I can wind first gear up to 5200 and shift it "manually" but if I just drive it "automatically" up to third gear it will only go to 4200. I didn't read all the other responses but if you can wind it manually, then its not the engine.
You need to play around with your governor, lighten the weights and or springs to desired shift RPM.
Shift RPM in auto mode depends on alot of things, and my shift RPMs changed from 6100 and 6300 to (1-2, 2-3) to 5900 and 5400 (1-2, 2-3) from just changing my torque converter (and I found this out at the track-- boy did that rot). After a few days of playing with them, I have managed to get the shifts to 6500 1-2, 6150 2-3. Usually I can get them closer together than that, but I have been unable to this time.
I think you are looking at the wrong parts here.
Getting a turbo 400 (I don't have exp with other trans, but its certainly not the program a shift RPM with a computer ease of a 4L80E, etc) to shift where you want takes alot of trial and error.
If I were you I would search the transmissions folder for jakeshoe's method of playing with the governor, or buy b&m's governor recalibration kit and start out with keeping your stock weights and putting springs that are lighter than your current ones in place of the current springs.
Be sure to buy a handful (at least 5-10, I can only get 3 uses out of a governor gasket) of governor gaskets.

hth

matt

Matt, I never thought about playing with the governor. It has a shift kit and it actually shifts too quick from first to second when I let it shift on it's own. I will also search for that post. Thanks guys! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

If it shifts too quick part throttle, and you have an adjustable vacuum modulator, try turning it out clockwise a turn or two at a time until either it shifts how you like it, or you run out of turns.
The governor (IMHO) does play with part throttle shift mph/rpm, so when playing with that I keep the modulator at midway so I have some play room at the end if I get close with shift RPM after modding the governor, you can get a couple mph out of the modulator at WOT in my experience, but not much, but sometimes its just enough.
If you don't have an adjustable modulator, I think you can grab them at just about any old parts store.
I would think a spring change (you may have to try a bunch of different springs) would get your WOT shifts to around 5200ish. Play with just one spring at a time so you can keep track of your changes. I just squish them with my fingers to figure out how heavy I think they are, then go one step lighter at a time per side until its about right.
Also, in my experience with this, try to keep the weights and springs (and I have no logical reason to back this up) somewhat balanced, so if you grind your weight, or use a b&m weight, I have found using a really light weight with really heavy spring gives odd results, as does a really heavy weight with a really light spring (like 5000 1-2, 6000rpm 2-3, or whatever).

good luck.
Once you get the hang of it, playing with the governor only takes 5 minutes, its the test runs and cool downs that take forever..

Matt