Hi,

Today I started a newly rebuilt, essentially stock 1967 396/325 HP motor with a mild performance cam (hydraulic).

Prior to initial startup, I brought #1 up on the compression stroke, set the timing mark at 10 degree BTDC, pre-oiled the motor and installed the distributor per forum posts. I also cranked the engine with the coil wire disconnected until I had fuel in the carburetor.
I connected the coil, cranked the motor and it fired right up. I adjusted the timing and the engine RPM to 2000 and ran it for 30 minutes.

During the first 10 minutes I finished filling the transmission (Turbo 400). It took (4.5) quarts. I had added (1) to the converter during assembly and (4) before start-up. I added water to keep the radiator topped off, but it did not take much. I also attempted to add power steering fluid to the (1) quart I had added prior to startup, but it would only take 0.5 quarts. This is s Chevelle and uses the reservoir.

Here are the problems I encountered in the first 30 minutes:

1.) The transmission developed a high-pitch whine at 2000 RPM. The fluid level indicated that it is full. The transmission has been completely rebuilt and the converter is new. I did have the rear of the car on jack stands during start-up, and I moved through the gears a few times. After the first 30 minutes, the whine remains but is inconsistent.

2.) The motor ran between 200 and 210 for the entire break-in period. I could not add more water. I am running a 4-core radiator. I installed a 180 degree Mr. Gasket high performance thermostat. I have a 50/50 mix of coolant/water. The ambient temperature was about 60 degrees. I also turned the heater on High, but the temperature did not drop.

3.) The power steering pump began to whine and smoke near the end of the break-in, but I could not add fluid. The pump has been newly rebuilt. I did jack the front of the car off the ground and turned the wheel lock-to-lock, but still no fluid could be added. After the first 30 minutes, the power steering pump lost the whine but I do not have power assisted steering.

Please comment.

Thanks,

Jim

200-210 when the motor is running at 2k rpm sitting still for 30 mins on a frhesh tigfht motor is not that bad at all.

also,with perf cam make sutre you running approx 18 deg base timing & 36 total.

Set base timing with vac adv unhooked/plugged and idle low like 600-650 rpm.

If the base timng is retartded the motor can run a little hotter too.

Some auto trans do whine when in park/neutral,jus make sure the fuid lvlis correct and test drive the car,if trans act startng take back to the reebuilder since yoyu saidit was rblt.

As for the ps/pump,maybe its air bound along with the ps/box so maybe you need to bleed it from the pressure side ps/hose?

Scott

Like Scott said 210-220 is not bad ,,but adding a fan in front of radiator will help!Just an plain house fan will do just something to flow air across fins....
Make sure you cycle in REVERSE Too not just 1 2 3 do that couple of times and shut down engine wait a few then start again,the front pump is about the only thing that will cause the whine>>

Like Scott said maybe just a burp and you will be ready to go

your getting close good luck

Jeff

Thanks, guys.

I have taken the car out twice for short trips after initial start-up.

The motor stabilizes at about 205 degrees in 60 degree weather.

After shutting it down it creeps to about 212 and spews about a cup out of the radiator overflow.

Scott, will you please descibe your method of setting the base timing at 18 degrees with 36 degrees total.

Thanks for your time. It is much appreciated. You guys are great!

Have a great Sunday,

Jim

If you have a new convertor, and you had the trans rebuilt, 5 QT is not enought fluid. On a new covert and trans rebuilt, it will take like 10 to 12 qt. Do you have the correct dip stick. You said car was on jack stands, have you put it on the ground and see if it moves?

442 Harry,

Sorry about the confusion....I have a total of 9.5 qts. of ATF in the transmission/converter. The rebuild utilized the stock transmission pan. The book I have indicates that the facory spec for the Turbo 400 is 9.5 qts. Is this correct? The dip stick is a factory part, and it reads full at operating temperature.

I did run the transmission through all of the gears including reverse, and the tires were rotating when the rear-end was on jack stands.

When I drive the car for short break-in trips, the transmission whines for short periods of time at various RPM ranges.

Any thoughts?

Thank you for your time,

Jim

Again,with perf cam make sure you running approx 18 deg base timing & 36 total.

Set base timing using a timing light with vac adv unhooked/plugged and idle low like 600-650 rpm.

Then you may need to buy a timing tape to install on the harm ballencer if you dont have a dial backlight.

Then simply rev the motor to 3k rpm to see where the timing is and then rev it past 3k rpm to ensure it doesnt go any higher then 38 deg.

But since you asked about how to set base timing i was wondering if you had ever done it before?

If not maybe you could get a fellow t/c'r that lives near you to show you how to check the base/total timing,its pretty easy to do.

If the motor runs warm after ensuring timing is correct then check the fuel calibration on primary side of carb to see if its lean or not,do a spark plug check to get that info.

Scott

If the tran is makinging a whinning sound, I would pull the pan and check the filter, and pickup tube, make sure there is a O ring on it, and seated good. I had this sound years ago on a Olds, when I changed the filter, and it did this when cold. It was sucking air, making that sound.

Thanks for all the info, Scott.

I have set base timing a number of times but I have not set total timing. My timing light is not a dial-back.

I found another post that explains how to use a dial-back timing light, so I will purchase one and set base and total timing per your instructions and post the results.

I joined this forum to learn from people who are more experienced and knowledgeable than me.

Thanks for your patients and all of your help,

Jim

Does anyone know why the upper radiator hose collapses when the motor is not running?