Need to R&R the rear pinion yoke. Don;t know how it opened up, but it did and the 1310 has about .020" play, no longer snug in the saddle.

Are there any disadvantages to going "all the way" to a 1350 sized yoke ( other than the $100 more than a 1330 sized driveshaft )?

Car sees limited track time, but seems like even a wannbe 11 sec stick car is hard on parts. Steel flywheel is the only other winter upgrade planned.

Unless someone has a set of Canfield 310s for cheap! smile.gif

THNX for ur opinions guys.

I would say no downside at all. Stronger is better IMO. I went with 1350's for the pinion and trans yoke, just a little extra bullet proofing cant hurt :D

Stick is harder on the drive line its direct.I have the 1350 3" chrome moly shaft, with loop up front. For extra insurance go with 1350. Some guys like 1310 u joints with trans and rear yoke its lighter and brings up to speed quicker. Some guys are going to the yards and pulling the aluminum shafts of the chevy vans and trucks all ready have the 1350 u joints cut them down to fit.

Gene,

Other than the cost I don't see any disadvantage to running a 1350 u-joint. I think for a heavy, big block, stick car they are a very good idea.

I had a driveshaft fabbed up for my car a couple of years ago from Pattersons Driveshafts here in Indy. It is comparable to the "Nitous Ready" driveshaft from Denny's. Mine has 1350 solid joints on both ends, moly tubing (I believe) and is 3.5" diameter. Other than not being able to fit through my driveshaft loop without repositioning it, I have had zero problems. graemlins/hurray.gif

I have a Denny's HD shaft now, I hope the 1350 nitrous ready isnt much thicker as there's only maybe 1.25" between the shaft and mufflers!

OK Thnx guys, I'll have to save another $100 or so.

Yeah what about loop and exhaust tube clearance? If I get off my lazy arse today I'm gonna install my loop. It already looks like a tight fit!

How much clearance should one have anyway????

Don't have a loop right now, need to fab up a "pocket clip" shaped loop off the tranny mount.

I wouldn't hesitate to go to the 1350 u-joints as well as a steel CNC yoke and 3" DOM steel drive shaft and drive shaft loop. This combination is proven bulletproof and not that expensive. It handles my buddies 3600lb Cuda with 1050HP and a Liberty 4 speed and 1.3 60', so I put it on my Chevelle for safety. Peace of mind in this area is worth it to me. A drive line coming apart is not happy times!

Originally posted by 427L88:
Don't have a loop right now, need to fab up a "pocket clip" shaped loop off the tranny mount. Tech let you race a stick car running 12's w/out a driveshaft loop??
tsk tsk tsk :(

Go for it Gene.....1350's, good flywheel and you darn well better have a block plate a scattershield.

In the last 3 years I have broken 2 driveshafts, both had the ears ripped off, and both times the 1350 joint was intact.Now who would have figured that LOL.I use the strange billet steel pinion yoke it's about $120. You can have your shaft redone for the new joint for about $80, they just cut off the end put on a new one and re-balance it, the yoke is about 3/4" longer so the shaft needs to be shortened as well.I am just glad I have the non torque producing heads, or I would be in real trouble ;)

smile.gif Yeah Pat, me too!

Jim, it's not a race car, nor will it be raced weekly ever, in my hands, so no plans on all that extraneous stuff. What does the scatter and block plate correct, a flywheel coming apart?

Figure by going to a forged steel flywheel vs the GM iron, 90+% of the risk is gone.

And yes, last year at the last 1/4 mile outing the tech boys did descend on Old Red when it ran the second easy 12.2x and the fellas must've known I was thinking about going broke on the launch and running a high 11. No bar, no loop, " Keep launching it easy guy, if you want to keep racing. "

The car is a period restification, not a drag car. Plus the X pipe exhaust would keep the shaft from grabbing tarmac.( not, for course, of ripping me a new icehole.) Loop is required with even DOT slicks me thinks though, so its going on. Car will not run fast enough for a cage. Well, maybe once or twice just to validate the combo! smile.gif

Frnkly my question should ahve been more specific, will the larger 1350 Ujoint affect ride quality on the long hauls I like to take ( 500+ miles)?

wouldn't want to give up that easy 70 mph cruising feeling, ya know. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

The scattershield is to prevent the flywheel and related accesories from joining you in the seat tongue.gif

Originally posted by fatrat70:
The scattershield is to prevent the flywheel and related accesories from joining you in the seat tongue.gif Well put :D

Gene, it's your choice, but I can't come up with a good reason NOT to install a good Lakewood shield. Resto or not. Is it likely yours will blow and come up through your floor? No, but just the thought of that scares me enough to have one on there. At $280, I'd go for it.

Jim,

I;ve dropped the clutch at 5000 and stalled the motor against a slick/ ladder bar suspension, I;ve powershifted shifted it at 7400 repeadetly......

for three-fours years now,

How LIKELY is it????? so far, event risk had 0 occurences....

Steel flywheel is a risk reducer, everything else is safety.
Look, it will only be raced 2-3X per year. I'll take the big risk reducer. I don;t want to screw with clearance issues, setting up a dial to center the bell, etc etc. Way too much drama for me.

Thanks guys, I was mostly worried about my interstate jaunts which are much more frequent than drag racing the car.

Frnkly my question should ahve been more specific, will the larger 1350 Ujoint affect ride quality on the long hauls I like to take ( 500+ miles)?

wouldn't want to give up that easy 70 mph cruising feeling, ya know. Gene

the 1350s dont feel any different than 1310s. if you think about it there are probably countless trucks out there that left the factory with these u-joints.