A guy responded to my wanted ad for a 454 block. He said $100 so I emailed him back asking for the story on it. Heres what I got:

"the block is out of a 68 vett it is a std. bore 396 block same as a 454 except it has a 41/8 bore insted of the 41/4 that a std.454 is. plenty enough cyclinder wall to bore out! the block was hot tanked awhile back and it has some surfface rust but is still cherry"

I somewhat understand this, so it is a 396, but....? And will it make a 489/96? For a 100 bucks im on it, if it will do what I want it to.

I would pass on it. Try to find a 454 block. There are lots of them around. You shouldn't start a project like this with a compromise.

You want the biggest bore you can afford.

Thanks TJ... you're probably right. I get alot of random e-mail for my wanted 454. Mostly junk... but some interesting items here and there.

The only time chevy put a 396 in a vette was 65, 68s had 427s that had a 4.25inch bore. I have heard some 396s can go +.125 but when I asked at my machine shop they said in it was a rare block that could do it and they didn't recommend it.

Yep, the '65 396 block is worth more than most complete 454's. No way you'd want to bore it, just sell to a Vette guy.

Maybe I'll buy it and resell it, for a $100 smile.gif

The guy is giving you a line. He is trying to get rid of an old piece of junk he has laying around.

Yeah, I aint buyin that thing

396 blocks do not have the clearnace ground in the bottom of the cylinder walls to clear a 4" stroke crank like the 454 block does. So even if you could bore it to 4,25", you would have to make sure it could handle a 4" stroke crank.

In the HPBOOK, "How to Hot Rod BB Chevys" it says there are 396's that can swallow a standard 454 rotating ass'y with no grinding b/c the author did it and said what block casting number he used!!

As for finding out which one to use, either get a copy of that book or try to stick an old wooden pencil between the cylinder walls through the side freeze plugs! Word has it that if it won't go between them, it can go out to 4.25"..

BUT in all likihood, you might ought to sonic check her before boring her out that much..

pdq67

PS, I will say that my '74/'75, P/U 454 block swallowed a 496 rotating ass'y with NO grinding whatsoever AND FROM looking at it, I bet a 4.375" rotating ass'y would fit with minor grinding, if any!!!

Based on what I've been told, '74 & '75 454 blocks are the best blocks to have due to a higher nickel content in the castings. I don't know if there is any truth to it but I've heard that from several sources over the years.

Reminds me of an article in one of the mags just a few months back about Sonic Testing blocks to find out their true densities.Very interesting how much blocks can differ to make things usually impossible, possible.

Also learned another reason to dislike Mustangs.The 5.0 block is notoriously thin and prone to blowin' apart when they approach Chevy horsepower ratings.......... :D

I keep tellin' myself I'm gonna buy one of those things and put a Chevy motor in it just to blow the doors off those guys and see their faces when I raise the hood. graemlins/thumbsup.gif PRICELESS tongue.gif

The guy is yanking your chain. It's something other than described I bet.

Yes, there have been pic's posted from time to time about the 5.0 block splitting ringht down the middle with only the intake, mains and pan holding it together!!

IMHO, insane power levels cause it happen to the little motor!!

And I think even a Chevy has been posted that came apart the same way.

I do know I have read that there are a heck of a lot more 392 MOPAR early Hemi heads running around then there are blocks b/c the blocks used to spit the crank's out the bottom and leave the heads still good when under extreme nitro and boost conditions!!

I have an old mag that shows a 354/392 Hemi powered AA/FA with all the pistons and rods hanging down like "tits on a milk cows udder"!! I bet it was a heck of a BANG!!!

pdq67

Phillip,
Do yourself a big favor ... if you cannot see the block first, and if the seller is not willing to let a machine shop look at it .... DONT BUY IT !!!! PERIOD !! I have seen too many disappointed faces when I tell guys that the block they just paid good money for is junk. Right now at the shop there is a 327 with a cracked main cap, a "standard bore" 454 block that has so much rust in 2 cylinders that .060" wont even clean it up so it's going to need 2 sleeves, and a 302 Ford block that is cracked.

And dont forget as always, if it sounds too good to be true, it is junk.

Hello Bill,

Is there any truth to storing cast iron engine parts outside to cure them? I ask this because you mentioned that you had a standard bore block that has a lot of rust.

For instance I was thinking of buying a set of 781 heads that were left outside because it "cures" the metal.

I didn't think it was true. I would normally just wrap them in oil rags and keep them in a dry place.

No. It's the repeated heat cycles that 'season' a block. A rusty block is just something you have to clean up.

Nice to see someone from Ottawa. What part of town do you live in? Did you make it to AutoRama?

I'm in the Bank / Hunt club area. Autorama sucked worse than usual, and I almost asked for my money back. Good thing the kids were free. Can't wait for Place d'Orleans to open up!

At least the bikini contest was fun to watch! There were a couple of cool cars there but you will find them at Orleans anyways. The parts section has really taken a nosedive. I can remember 10 years ago it was a lot better. Spring Barrie is the way to go.

Good way to put it, if its too good to be true its junk. Unless its a trustworthy friend hooking it up! I heard that about the high nickel content also, I wasnt sure what years it was but 74-75 sounds right to me. This block was local he lives about 20 minutes away and wanted to sell it for $100, but its not what I want, and he suuuure is anxious to get it outta there, may just want to clean up space and make the wife happy but who knows.... It isnt for me anyways :eek: I may be going to the pick n' pull this week sometime I need to pick up a chevy BBC book today so I know whats what, tall decks, casting num's, etc. Or I can just post all day long :D j/k

Phil,
Have you given any thought to just buying an older truck that has a running engine in it? I know I see them all the time around here for about $1000. Not only do you get the block you want but if your lucky you won't have to rebuild it at least not right away. As a bonus you get all the accesories ac/alternator/ps and they're brackets. For $1000 you'd be WAY ahead. Plus you can part what's left of the truck after you take what you want.

Lance

Casting seasoning came about b/c I think I read where Packard used to store at least a years worth of raw block casting cores outside for a year so they would go through thermal cycling which helped strees relieve a new casting. Maybe Rolls Royce did the same thing too????

Now you can vibra-stress relieve them as well as thermal-stress relieve them cryogenically.

pdq67

I have done this.... it is not the way to go.

I wound up keeping the block, the alt bracket, and that's it!! I had to dispose of everything else. $1200 plus all my time to pull it apart. Just start trolling around the local machine shops and you should get a lead on a block pretty quick. The other less respectable way is to buy someone elses unfinished project because they are having trouble finishing it. You can get some rock bottom deals this way.