has any one had luck w/ the part stores a/c compressors ? next question is how hard is the seals front and inside the compressor to change ? yes i know about the clutch puller . and has any one had luck doing there own ? my a/c comp must be leaking down my reasons for this is lite oil film on the inner wheel well and lost the charge

Before you do any parts replacements, you can pressure test the sytem if you have a mig welder. If you take the line from the welder and (make your own connections) connect it to your A/C system you can use soapy water and squirt it on all the connections, the front and rear of your compressor around the clutch, on the evap, on the condensor etc and where the bubbles are is the leaks.

What I did to make the connections was take an extra AC line and cut the end of that either went to the can or the gauge and used a barb fiting and some other brass fittings to get to the correct compression fitting to fit on the end of the welder line. I connected up the lines and then connected them to the car. I turned up the reg to 24lbs and pressurized the lines.

If you would like any pics of the setup or the connections let me know. I have never personally done the seal change, but have had 3 compressors on previous cars seals replaced and never had any problems. The replacement compressor I bought for the Camaro (A6 Compressor) worked fine, and the Honda compressor I had on my old Civic didn't produce any problems. Hope this helps some.

thanks rod i belive i will try your trick thanks for the imfo:yes:

Reman A6 compressors from the "chain" parts stores have an absolutely dismal record for shaft seal leaks. If it says Four Seasons or Ready Aire on the box, don't even waste your money. They're only one or two steps above scrap.

Check out www.ackits.com. They carry brand new A6 compressors for just a little bit more than a reman. Their remans are also much higher quality than what you will get at Automurraykragenadvancepepzone.

Also, check out www.autoacforum.com. If you do a search for A6 shaft seal, there is a ton of info there.

If you need a compressor I would recommend NAPA, a little more expensive at $156 but if you replace the heater control valve at the same time (which you should) their's carries a 2 year warranty, a heck of a lot longer than the "chain" stores.

If you need a compressor I would recommend NAPA, ...... than the "chain" stores.


Napa is a chain store, however Im sure you mean some like were stated in the previous posts.

Reman A6 compressors from the "chain" parts stores have an absolutely dismal record for shaft seal leaks. If it says Four Seasons or Ready Aire on the box, don't even waste your money. They're only one or two steps above scrap.

Check out www.ackits.com (http://www.ackits.com). They carry brand new A6 compressors for just a little bit more than a reman. Their remans are also much higher quality than what you will get at Automurraykragenadvancepepzone.

Also, check out www.autoacforum.com (http://www.autoacforum.com). If you do a search for A6 shaft seal, there is a ton of info there.
thank you for the web sites they are very helpfull:yes:

Before you do any parts replacements, you can pressure test the sytem if you have a mig welder. If you take the line from the welder and (make your own connections) connect it to your A/C system you can use soapy water and squirt it on all the connections, the front and rear of your compressor around the clutch, on the evap, on the condensor etc and where the bubbles are is the leaks...
So...ummm...how does a guy with little knowledge of A/C systems (and therefore someone who probably does not have much in the way of A/C tools and equipment) get the argon or argon/CO2 mix back OUT of the system?


I've seen pros use nitrogen to pressurize the system for the initial leak test; but then they have to use a vacuum pump to purge all the nitrogen.

Yes they use a vacuum pump to evacuate the system, you would use the same setup to do it. You can call a shop to see what they would charge to evacuate, or see if any of the parts houses happens to rent a vac. pump. I know you can go to harbor freight and pick one up that works off of your air pressure to create a vacuum.

Another way is to allow the pressureized air to escape, and then just add your freon. once you have put in a can or so, then start the car and turn on the compressor to finish sucking the freon into the system. This is NOT the best way to do it, but it will work. Some of the old shop manuals even tell you how to use the compressor itself to evacuate the system, but it is on the totally stock original system that has valves on the back of the compressor to allow you to lock one end of the system and suck the air and moisture out.

The main reason to pull a vacuum on a system is to evacuate any moisture in the system by dropping the pressure which lowers the boiling point of water to turn it to vapor to be removed as it does cause corrosion in the system.

Had to register today after lurking forever here because you guys are a GREAT group and some of the A/C advise while not yet stepping into the danger zone The flirting with it reminds me of ..... We won't go there today
The ripping the argon from the welder to pressure the system reminds me of
a poster that was in a shop break room some years ago showed a roof top with a A/C unit all sides laid down on the roof still attached at the unit bottom no top no blower no compressor some big ugly stains on the roof other A/C units on the roof near by. Unit had just had a brand new compressor installed
but the two guys who installed it wanted to leak check their work so rather then go to the truck they decided to pressure the system with the oxygen from their torch set just took a minute to modify and even less to blow the two guys the A/C unit completely away and the near by units now in need of repair . The explosion from oxygen and oil under pressure is extreme so I hear
And have even met one guy who survived an explosion like that altho I think he was better looking before it happened he pressured up an airnail gun he had just repaired his arm 5yrs later looked like the dog dragged something from the trash but he was glad to still have it.
All I can want to say is just the right tools please be safe.
Nitrogen is cheap cheaper than argon and its dry
Blowing out the air will work but are all non condensables gone?
If you want to make something use an old house refer compressor as a vacuum pump there a dime a dozen and will do a nice evacuation don't forget to replace filter driers if exposed to atmosphere you'll be much cooler and spend less horsepower doing it .
I've been doing Refrigeration work since 1975 the little details aren't always so little.
The OZONE HOLE is not from R-12 going south for vacation!
But it may have a lot in common with $4.50gal gas

The ripping the argon from the welder to pressure the system reminds me of ... a poster oxygen from their torch set just took a minute to modify and even less to blow the two guys the A/C unit completely away.All I can want to say is just the right tools please be safe.

Neither Argon, nor CO2 is combustible... I had mentioned CO2 however.

Blowing out the air will work but are all non condensables gone?

What I was stating is that there are vacuums that are operated by air. I wasn't telling him to blow out the system using air. Here is what I was talking about.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96677

don't forget to replace filter driers if exposed to atmosphere you'll be much cooler and spend less horsepower doing it .

Good point, forgot to point that out.

What I was stating is that there are vacuums that are operated by air. I wasn't telling him to blow out the system using air. Here is what I was talking about.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96677
.

Actually, those "venturi vacuum pumps" are pretty much not worth the plastic they are made with. It would need 15-18 CFM of dry air, continuously for about an hour, to approach a 29" vacuum. That's about a 12HP, 2 stage compressor running flat out (off the cuff). . They also just can't, by design, approach the necessary vacuum level in microns necessary to "properly" evacuate an AC system and boil off moisture..
They are more appropriately called "Air operated, venturi effect wallet flushing pumps".

You can "purge" an AC system with almost any inert gas and remove the non condensible air. Nitrogen is about the only common inert gas that will actually "dry" the system, though. Really, there is no replacement for a real vacuum pump.

Really, there is no replacement for a real vacuum pump.

Some are lucky to have those :D