I am reworking a swap meet carb, 3310-2.

1.
What kinda weird screw is holding the metering plate in place? Is that called a posi-drive or clutch drive screw head? (I have heard of those at least). I found a flat blade that fit and they were not in too tight luckily.

2.
When I removed the secondary side, there was a metering plate, a thin gasket (.015") and then a metal plate (.031") and then the larger gasket that mates the float bowl to the body. The gasket kit I got comes with those same gaskets - but both are thicker. The one in between the plate and the metering block is .031" Should I still use the metal plate? The passages/openings seem to be identical. Just worried about making it too thick for re-assembly. The funky screws seem long enough.

3.
The tab on the throttle linkage that rides on the accelerator pump seemed a little bent. What is the reference point to go by to fix this?

4.
I understand I need to have a .015 feeler gauge to verify I am not over compressing the accelerator pump. Exactly what is the process for making this adjustment? I want the linkage to the pump arm just touching at closed throttle, correct?
TIA

Hey Ron
Those screws are a pain, I use a Robertson (square) screwdriver on those screws. That tin plate I usually leave it out and bolt the metering plate directly to the metering block/float bowl gasket. If you have some extra coin I would upgrade it and put a regular metering block on it. They sell the kit it comes with the longers bolts, gaskets, etc. The accelerator pump is measured at full throttle and you check it with a feeler gauge.

Dave

Thanks Dave.

I did buy the kit your are refering to. My plan was to start with the metering blcok and then see if I could notice a difference. :D

So, I don't even need the .031 gasket or the plate? In looking at the parts, it is hard to see what they add to the assembly - what is their purpose?

Ok, so I manually move the pump arm to max travel and ensure I can get a feeler gauge between the arm and the throttle linkage at WOT right?

Next I need to learn more about which pump cam does what :D

Alot of the newer 3310's they don't use that tin plate or the thin black gasket. They just use the thick metering block gasket. Yes, you see if you can slide a feeler gauge in between at WOT. That metering block kit you bought it has 75 jets installed in it. Replace them with 80's then its a difference when you install it. That stock metering block with the weird screws , its jetted at 75 so you really won't feel a difference when you do the conversion.

Dave

they are in fact clutch-head screws. Old time Holley geeks like me have a clutch-head screwdriver the right size. If you dig around a little you can usually find a straight-blade that will work. might have to grind a little off the sides to get tight fit.

My 57 Chevy pickup has lots of these screws, much larger in size though.

Do you have a genuine Holley kit? Accept no substitutes.

Thanks Dave, makes sense.

So they are clutch drive, neat. I wonder why they used those, to avoid user tampering like I am doing? :)

The performance parts shop in town sells AED rebuild kits (don't have the package in front me know, I think it is Advanced Engine Design). They are quite complete and the parts seem to be excellent quality, the gaskets are reuseable and durable. I deal directly with the shop owner who has been running the business for years, and has had a number of chevelles. He has a lot of good experience with these kits. I have had a kit for my 4779 in the past with no troubles.

Edit: the kit I have: http://www.aedperformance.com/Kits.htm