I have had to purchase a remanufactred delco wiper motor and washer the one that was in the car was not correct and was fried and worn out.We think we have the blue and light blue wires hooked up right but here is my trouble.On the new wiper motor there is two red power wires that i can not figure out where to plug them in to, any one know please advise.Also how do i ground the new wiper motor to the fire wall to ensure not to fry it when i test it.I have little to no skills when it comes to this electric stuff so any help at all is a real plus thanks to all for any tips or advise.This is for a 70 malibu.

Alann:confused::confused:

Any one have at least a guess on this one, i am really stuck here guys, please.


Alann

i think the two red wire's may be two different settings high and low, so i dont think you could fry it , i would call the people who sold it to you they should be able to answer your Question

there's a metal strip. be sure the reman unit has that. it's there because of the rubber vibration dampers that would otherwise insulate the wiper. the wiper/washer is constant hot and the switch closes the various ground circuits (high, low, wash). use a test light to find your hot lead and connect to the 2 red wires. i have the hidden wipers so it's a little different. on mine, the hot lead goes from the middle terminal of the 3 terminal connection (wiper) and jumps to the 2 terminal connection (washer). the rest are grounds from the switch. it's made that way because of the hidden wiper function. there has to be power after the switch is off. if you have the proper fuse in place, you can't hurt it. be sure to have some extras handy. hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply and your time, i will look into this, again thanks.

Alann

I don't know why you have those colors (red?), but this is how it is supposed to look (I made these drawings years ago, it's how my '70 malibu is wired up, and it is correct):

http://home.neb.rr.com/postmodern/wwpump.jpg

http://home.neb.rr.com/postmodern/wwswitch.jpg

Thanks for your drawings and reply, i will take this with me when doing the final wire job in the morning.

Alann

Just to add...... Black with yellow stripe is the power wire. Grounding the dark blue is for the washer. Grounding the black and light blue are for low and high speed (can't remember which wire color is which)

Where does the black with yellow strip go?

My wiper motor is alive and well, many thanks to all for the great help and pictures and drawings, i cant say thank you enough it is great to have working wipers again.

Alann

Where does the black with yellow strip go?

Black with yellow stripe comes from the wiper fuse and goes to wiper and washer.


http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/70wprmtr.jpg

This thread has been a GREAT help to me. I've had a similar problem with wiring. My remaining issue is that even with the correct colors, new motor, new fuse I still have no wiper action! This is getting expensive! Help?

Correction: tested old motor and it worked fine. Returned new motor for refund. Not quite so expensive now :D but still no wipers.

This thread has been a GREAT help to me. I've had a similar problem with wiring. My remaining issue is that even with the correct colors, new motor, new fuse I still have no wiper action! This is getting expensive! Help?

Correction: tested old motor and it worked fine. Returned new motor for refund. Not quite so expensive now :D but still no wipers.

Make sure the wiper motor is well grounded to the firewall.

What's the best way to do that? It just has the 3 bolts holding it to the wall.

Could it be the switch in the dash???

That Wiper Motor looks identical to my 70Z Hid-Away Wiper System. I've had to service 2 or 3 times over the years - basic general cleaning clean contacts ... etc. One problem I had with it is that if you do not use the motor for a year or 2 the bottom bearing seizes and you have to lift the rotor up out of the motor casing to lube the bottom bearing.

There should be a Ground Strap that runs from the Casing to one of the 3 Bolts that run through the rubber mounts. If it is not there you can use a wire with "eye" ends soldered to the ends.

A coil which looks like a Ballast resister that you see just under the 3 point connector has long since fallen apart on mine but the system still works. I'm wondering if anyone knows the purpose of this resistor - possible voltage reduction for the internal control Sx/Relay contacts ?

I had thought about the motor itself being bad and tested it off of the car. I'm beginning to wonder if there's power going TO the motor in the first place.

OK...power is going to the motor, power going to the switch, switch tests good when selecting both low and high and pump. The wipers moved up about 2 inches and stopped when wiggling the connections on it. Does anyone know how to fix loose connections or could it be an intermitent problem with the motor's armature?

Ensure the LOWER Motor Bearing is not Seizing. You usually have to lift the rotor up out of the bottom bearing just enough as not to disturb the brushes to get lubrication down around the bearing.

Great! Thanks z15! I'll give that a shot.

Should I be able to spin the armature by hand once the motor casing is separated a little?

Bump. I don't want to try spinning the armature and risk breaking something inside the motor casing.

I took the Main Cam Gear Out and pulled the motor with armature and Gear Shaft out of the Gear casing. You can now see the Brushes. You can lift the armature enough without disturbing the brushes to pull the shaft out of the lower Bearing in order to get lubricant down there. You can also clean up the armature contacts at this time. I was thinking about drilling a hole through the lower bearing boss that would drain moisture and I could access to lube the bearing in the future without taking the assembly apart. The seized lower bearing acted as if the wiper motor was not getting power when in fact it was.

I used electric contact cleaner and fine sand paper to refresh all relay contacts in the gear housing and sprayed the electrics and relays with Rust Check then repacked the gear housing with Molly Grease - don't use heavy axle grease.

It is really neat to watch the internal mechanism of the cam gear and relays work in conjunction while bench testing with the cover off. It's one archaic complicated jumbo but not that hard to figure out and adjust some part of it that obviously is not working. They are built tough. I can't see these units burning out other then say seized bearing and corrosion on the relay contacts preventing them from working. To tell you the truth learning how these units work was rather an interesting experience but be prepared to spend a whole day on it.

Mine is a Hide-Away system and has an additional relay which engages a dog on the cam to rotate the wiper arms further, then say in operation mode, on shut down will park the wiper blades below the hood line.

Ok that was by far one of the best replies I've read in a long time. Very in depth and detailed. I've got to get my motor apart then and fix it myself. I would have never thought about the access hole idea. Pretty cool!

Old thread...digging it up again with a new issue. I just replaced the wiper switch with a 2-pole flat rectangle switch (custom dash) and now my wipers speed up and slow down depending on engine RPM. When I turn them "off", they still go up and down about 1" and don't stop. The only way this doesn't happen is if I set my idle VERY low and keep the voltage down below 12V. Any ideas? Voltage regulator going south? Bad alternator?

Bump...anyone?

Still haven't figured this out. Anyone?

Old thread...digging it up again with a new issue. I just replaced the wiper switch with a 2-pole flat rectangle switch (custom dash) and now my wipers speed up and slow down depending on engine RPM
Must be one of those new speed sensing wiper motors like the new cars have, the faster you go, the faster they wipe. :D:D:D

Although yours is not supposed to do that.

When I turn them "off", they still go up and down about 1" and don't stop.
The parking cam must not be engauging the switch properly.

Test for voltage, at the battery, with the car running. What is the voltage at idle, 1100rpm, 1500rpm and 2000rpm?

I was thinking the same thing about the cam. Problem is, if I've turned them on and left them on, then they do the "up/down" deal in the parked position. BUT, if I only hit the switch once to clear the window and then switch them off, they don't do the up/down thing. The battery is brand new and my voltage is around 13.9 or so. Although, THAT also goes up and down depending on RPM. I'm thinking two issues. Wiper power being one and alternator being another? Ideas?

Oh, and I don't have a tach installed yet so I don't know what my RPMs are at.

Bump. Could this issue be alternator-related or voltage regulator related?

I believe you have multiple issues with both the wipers and the charging system.

Bump. Could this issue be alternator-related or voltage regulator related?

Maybe, but you would need to answer the question below and do some testing just to find out for sure.................

Test for voltage, at the battery, with the car running. What is the voltage at idle, 1100rpm, 1500rpm and 2000rpm?