p600b ati compressor [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: p600b ati compressor


300hp
Dec 27th, 03, 4:34 PM
wouls some one out there that is knowledgable on centrifical superchargers tell me if this is a good compressor. would it work on a 600ish hp 355?

Gokou
Dec 27th, 03, 5:12 PM
P600B? My suggestion is to stay away. They have the older, lower 3.05:1 geartrain, and as such you need a smaller pulley to spin them at a decent speed to make boost. Unfortunately because of the small pulley you usually run into belt slippage issues. So then you crank down on the tensioner to keep it from slipping and you end up toasting the main bearings in the blower. They also rely on engine oil which means they run hotter than the newer SC (self contained) models.

I strongly recommend getting a newer self contained unit with the 4.10:1 step-up ratio. They'll run cooler because they don't have not engine oil circulating through them, and the 4.10:1 ratio means you can run a larger pulley for more belt contact area and still make decent boost. I run a P1SC-H myself @ 15psi @ 6750rpm, making about 650hp on my 353. Works great. Details are in my webpage in my signature.

Troy

Bomber '67
Dec 27th, 03, 5:13 PM
As far as centrifugal superchargers go, the p600b has been seriously eclipsed by newer models/designs. As far as supercharger slection and horsepower results the question is simple: from what kind of n/a horsepower do you seek to reach your boosted power goal. Many smallish centrifugals have no problem adding ~ 100 or so hp. As you ask for more and more power from a smaller supercharger higher air temps and the related tuning issues arise. I believe in using a larger supercharger and spining it slowly to make reliable big horsepower. My SC 468 made ~ 480 hp without the supercharger belt on, at 17.1 psi measured boost it basically doubled the n/a power.

One quick word about "measured boost". The boost psi measured in your intake manifold is only a measure of backed up airflow, it is not a measure of actual airflow. To add to that: if you go larger on the cylinder heads or camshaft profile you should see a decrease in measured boost, while at the same time measured horsepower would increase. Remember, its all about ACTUAL airflow, which is harder to measure than backed up airflow.

Thomas

Gokou
Dec 27th, 03, 5:25 PM
Originally posted by Bomber '67:
One quick word about "measured boost". The boost psi measured in your intake manifold is only a measure of backed up airflow, it is not a measure of actual airflow. To add to that: if you go larger on the cylinder heads or camshaft profile you should see a decrease in measured boost, while at the same time measured horsepower would increase. Remember, its all about ACTUAL airflow, which is harder to measure than backed up airflow.Exactly, and a very good an often overlooked point. Example: A motor with a good flowing set of heads may very well make the same amount of power at 10psi compared to the same motor with a low-flowing set of heads at 15psi. The more air you can get into the motor means the more power it will make, and if the blower is working against a restrictive set of heads then you aren't making as much power as you could be. Good flow numbers means more power with less boost, which means less load on the blower and a lower discharge air temp.

He's also right about sizing the blower. The faster you spin it and the harder you work it, you will increase the discharge air temps. This is bad for power and also significantly increases the chances of detonation. However, too large of a blower spinning too slowly means performance will suffer at the lower RPM range. You need to pick a happy medium. If you plan on "upgrading" and going for more power in the future, buy a larger blower to begin with.

For a 350 making ~600hp, my opinion is that a P1SC will give you a good balance between minimal charge heating and also give good lower-rpm boost. If you're starting to think of going up to 700-750hp in the future, I think a D1SC would be a better choice.

Troy