Hey there, I'm doing my planning and budgeting for a new project. I'm so early in, I haven't even found the project car yet. ;->

I'm trying to get an idea of how to budget for the project.

I know the short answer to how much it'll cost is "way more than you think."

But, assuming I'm doing all of the labor, metal work, paint, interior, etc., I'm really looking at materials, right?

Assuming I get a project car that hasn't been done before, I'm looking at what, both front and rear quarter panel skins, floor and trunk pans, top motor and hardware, plus canvas. Also, carpet, etc. for the inside, I can figure that out.

Is it just one of those deals where I need to assume I'll replace pretty much everything?

In that case, is it just cheaper to find a car that's 80% of the way there, and go back and redo what I need to/want to?

I just want to make sure I don't spend $5k for a junker, and then $30k restoring it, when i could buy a $15k car and spend $5k finishing it up.

Thanks for the advice in advance...

KD

I know the short answer to how much it'll cost is "way more than you think."KD

Yep :yes:

Started out on mine thinking it would an easy clean up and repaint. Now I'm in middle of tearing it all apart for a frame off resto. Just wouldn't be happy with it any other way. Unless you already have most of the tools and equipment, or can borrow them, and can find good deals on whatever parts you need, the costs will add up even if you do all the work, and don't forget your time has a price to it too. Unless you don't work full time, don't have a wife/GF/whatever, don't have a life, there is never enough extra time for working on the car. My budget went in the trash can long ago. If you're in for the ride, take it slow & steady. Good luck:thumbsup:

The best deals are cars that are already done and the seller needs to get out quick.
Be patient and don't buy the first few cars you look at. Bring a friend with who knows what to look for.]
good luck

The best deals are cars that are already done and the seller needs to get out quick.
Be patient and don't buy the first few cars you look at. Bring a friend with who knows what to look for.]
good luck


I agree, buy a car that is done. One that is close to what you want but in particular the cosmetics and frame are done.

Consider, if you are doing the work in your spare time it will take years to finish. Everything will take longer and cost more than you expect.

If you buy a finished car you can get in and enjoy it now. You can then take your time and make changes as your budget and time allow.

You never know, you might find the exact car you want to build.

Been both places; buy it and drive it now.

Verle

The best deals are cars that are already done and the seller needs to get out quick.
Be patient and don't buy the first few cars you look at. Bring a friend with who knows what to look for.]
good luck

x2

Although I'm having fun (most of the time) working on my "project", I sure wish I had spent a little more time and money looking for something more complete. I have about $12,000 into my car now, and I think for $12k, I could have found something in much better shape

Lotsa guys cannot afford the initial outlay that a "done" car requires, such as me. 'Specially a vert, like he wants.

If you are looking for a chevelle convertible, most likely you will have to spend much more than $5K for a junker. Other GM A-body 'verts are much cheaper, I paid under $10K for the goat in my sig.

I am doing what you are talking about. It is much more manageable this way. After you have a good air compressor, welder, and some of the other necessary tools, it pretty much comes down to how much time you are willing to spend on it.

Buy the most solid car you can, Will save you TONS of money in the long run. I bought a "solid" 70 4 or so years ago and "only" had to replace the LH door, Both 1/4's, Both outer wheel houses, Trunk lid and patch the floors.
Whatever number you come up with (time and $) DOUBLE IT - Then you will still be on the low side. That's just how it goes. It is always cheaper to buy a done car than do one yourself. I die EVERYTHING except the paint and have a ton into it. The wife thinks $2,000 :D

LK

I initially bought what I thought I could afford (at the time) and prob. should have saved a bit longer and bought "better". Drove it for yrs. while I accumulated some of the stuff needed to do a resto. Finally started and when I got into it, it was far worse than I thought and I knew already it was bad. (Sound familiar, guys?) Anyway, after 4 yrs. and untold $$, it was done (back in 2000). It was fun and a real learning experience and I'm not sorry I did it. But, if there ever is a "next time", I may shop "harder" for something better, but not necessarily "done" because you never know for sure what is under that "done" unless there is tons of documentaion and pics galore.
In the end, it is up to you and as you know, "you pays your $$ and you takes your choice." Have fun and don't let it get to you (too much!) and stay in touch w. everyone here. We can help you maintain some sanity, if nothing else!

Great advice from all of you. Budget timing is definitely a key, but it does sound like even buying a "solid" car is a bit of a crap shoot, and in my case, it's almost 100% that whatever I buy won't be "quite there" for me.

I'm self-employed, so time isn't a huge deal, I can take as much time as I want to do it right. I definitely won't be in a hurry.

I guess my concern is having to drop like $25k for a "mostly restored" car and doing a bunch of work after that. There are some real rust buckets on ebay in the $3-4k range, which seems a bit much for what they are selling. Seems like a majority of the decent cars are over $20k minimum.

x2

Although I'm having fun (most of the time) working on my "project", I sure wish I had spent a little more time and money looking for something more complete. I have about $12,000 into my car now, and I think for $12k, I could have found something in much better shape

I hear ya. I bought mine knowing it needed work and now 4 years and 14k later, not including the price of the car, it's not even close to being done. Haven't even started on the body work or the interior. I love the car and love working on it but I think I could've had something pretty dang nice for 20k.

budget l:)

When it comes to rust, there's no way to know how bad it really is until it's stripped. And off the frame, if you have the equipment and $$ to do it. If you can't afford a recently done car, with docs and pics, then you need to be prepared for possibly/probably/without a doubt! going way over whatever budget you set. I'd look for a car that has spent its life in CA or AZ, or someplace that doesn't need road salt. I thought I had a solid car - until everything was bare. Needed every piece of metal underneath, including braces & inner wheel houses, from the toe kicks to the rear bumper - including the tail light panel behind the rear bumper. Some of those pieces aren't repopped, so you have to find donor car sections to use - which isn't cheap!!

They are absolute money pits - but so worth it!!

so, what year chevelle are you looking for?

so, what year chevelle are you looking for?

I've had 2 67 Malibu Hard Tops, so I'm partial to those years. The wife likes the 70, but she really doesn't care much what I get. Really, almost anything from 64-70, but the 66 or 67 would be ideal.

budget l:)

I'm telling Ya seriously, You might be better off buying a done car. I got way more into My car, then if I bough something and fixed it up.:yes:

Kevin
I'm figuring I will have about $15,000 more into the car I have been working on for the last 2 years then I wanted to have. I'm probably at least a year away from being able to take it out on it's second drive with me. I was told it would take about $5000 to finish the car. Wrong it was so doctored up that I'm having to do a frame off restoration to even get it looking correct. Figure out your budget then double it and add 10% more for the unknows. Take someone along with you that knows what to look for before you buy a car. These cars are rewarding to work on, it does take time and money to do it right.
Good luck on you search.
Ray

Kevin
I'm figuring I will have about $15,000 more into the car I have been working on for the last 2 years then I wanted to have. I'm probably at least a year away from being able to take it out on it's second drive with me. I was told it would take about $5000 to finish the car. Wrong it was so doctored up that I'm having to do a frame off restoration to even get it looking correct. Figure out your budget then double it and add 10% more for the unknows. Take someone along with you that knows what to look for before you buy a car. These cars are rewarding to work on, it does take time and money to do it right.
Good luck on you search.
Ray

I think you pretty well hit the nail on the head with the doctored up comment. To me, that speaks a bit against this "mid range" cars that are "done" up to a point. You really don't know what you're going to get...there could be hidden rust under bondo, interior problems, leaks, who knows?

At least with a "junker", you typically have pretty low expectations, and know where you're starting from. Long term cost is a big deal, of course, but my wife is unlikely to let me just shell out $30k and tell her I'm going to rip out the interior because I don't like it.

I was all poised to do a Cobra replicar with a chevy small block in it. End cost would likely be in the $30k range, but it's $20k up front for the kit, plus the drivetrain. End cost here is probably going to be close to the same, but it'll be spread out a lot more, which makes it more palatable to pay out of pocket cash like I want to do.

I'm actually talking to another TC forum member about his 67 right now, and he's being really up front about the car. We'll see if we can work something out.

Lotsa guys cannot afford the initial outlay that a "done" car requires, such as me. 'Specially a vert, like he wants.

If you are looking for a chevelle convertible, most likely you will have to spend much more than $5K for a junker. Other GM A-body 'verts are much cheaper, I paid under $10K for the goat in my sig.

I am doing what you are talking about. It is much more manageable this way. After you have a good air compressor, welder, and some of the other necessary tools, it pretty much comes down to how much time you are willing to spend on it.

i agree i paid 1800 bucks for my skylark no rust besides the floor pans ran and drove

Restoration budget:
1) figure what you need
2) double it
3) add 50% for extras!

Restoration budget:
1) figure what you need
2) double it
3) add 50% for extras!
4) when European, x2 shipping costs :(

You will have 5-10 k in a "self moving collection of parts" vehicle. Like mine, with no less than 60 psi compression in any of the cylinders. It appears the original brakes are considered to add a lot of value at the purchase! (And I mean original 4 whl manual drum!)

I figure that to restore my 66, as a small block 2 dr hardtop plain jane will take easily 20k in parts alone, and none of that is body panels. This includes exterior trim, chrome, complete interior panels and int trim, dash stuff and gages, wiring, seats, heater, etc. Then figure exhaust, wheels&tires, suspension parts, steering stuff, brake conversion, rubber seals, floor coverings, light lenses, etc. The d@*# windshield wiper motor was $175.

Then there are some things I don't do, or don't do anymore, like paint, engine machine work, headliner, alignment, ac if I want it. There's 6-10k plus right there! I still do body work.

However, at the 10k mark she will be going to cruise nights, bare door panels, toggle switch ignition and all! I will embarass both the resto guys and the rat rod crowd. Wahoo!

This ain't no cheap hobby, makes sailboats look like they are for poor people!

budget l:)

All kidding aside, you are very smart to look at things from a budget standpoint BEFORE you begin.

Rule #1-"Become a student of the business"

I'm pretty sure that, in hindsight, there a lot of us in here that wish we would have spent more time doing that.

Probably the most important thing to fight off is impatience. If you rush into a project with the wrong "base car" it can eat you alive and may never be finished. That's a waste of $. Be patient.

If a finished or nearly finished car is out of your budget, so may your project be out of budget. Of course that depends on how long you are willing to have your car in the "project state" and what you want to have when it's done.

If you want a pristine restoration, it will take you a very long time and a lot of money as will a top notch Pro Touring, Pro Street kind of car.

Why do you think the "big bucks" guys go to the BJ and Mecum auctions? Because the do a budget first. They quickly learn that to get what they want in a very short time could easily cost them $80-$100K to begin with an average "salvage" car and pay for someone to do everything. If you can buy one already done for $30-$80K, well it's a steal.

How much talent do you have, what will you need professional help with? If you need some "sherpas" during your climb you better budget for that. Determine what help that is and get knowledgeable of that expense. Example-If you can assemble a motor from parts, you could build a very strong combo following the advice and getting help on which parts to get here plus the cost of the parts and machine work. Maybe as little as $3K for a professional level power plant. No clue of how to do it, probably double that to start.

If it's bodywork, better hold onto your hat. Example-my car. 2 areas of rot, each the size of a dollar bill in the quarters, otherwise nothing scary, car completely stripped...estimates are $15-$20 G's to do it show quality and drop back on the frame, set gaps.

So...
Look before you leap. Become a student of the business and be patient.
Decide what you want and build a budget based on what you can and can't do, how long you are willing to wait to complete.
Compare the cost of a finished car with your project cost. You might just find a steal during your search.

Most of all, good luck and be very glad there's a place like this to get help.
Hope that helps,
Fred

Hard to budget a restoration project. I originally thought $6000 would do it. $16,000 later.... and I ain't done yet! In the end $18,000+ will be in the car. Can I sell it for that, no, not even close but have I had fun? He$# yeah!

Yes, buy a done car, will be cheaper in the long run if you need to stick to a budget.

Budget is a concern, but it's not THE concern. I'm self employed, own my own web company, so I HAVE the money to do it right. But, I'm not independently wealthy or anything, so I can't just go get a junker and pay some shop $60k to do it perfectly.

The wife had already approved the outlay for the replicar, which would be in the $27k range we guessed. It's just seeing how projects come in for the business, and whether the funds are readily available.

That's the main appeal of the slow approach vs. finding a done car. Will it cost more in the long run? Probably. Can I sell it for what I'll put in it? Who cares? I've had and sold 2 of these already, and it sucked selling, so I don't intend on selling this one ever (well, the girls can sell it when I'm dead.) :boring:

I'm the kind of guy that is very DIY...pretty much always saying "sure, I can do that..." whether I can when I start or not...I take my time, figure it out, and fix any mistakes. I built my own house, but I don't do carpet, so I hired that out. For the Chevelle, I'm planning on doing everything but powder coating the frame and suspension and machining the block. I have the time, space, and tools to do everything else.

I also have a lot of hot rodding friends, paint guys, body guys, engine guys, plus ALL OF YOU!

And, I have a secret weapon...my own lift in my shop, doesn't that give me some sort of magical points for ability where there really isn't any? :thumbsup:

Thanks for all the advice, keep it coming!

Budget is a concern, but it's not THE concern. I'm self employed, own my own web company, so I HAVE the money to do it right. But, I'm not independently wealthy or anything, so I can't just go get a junker and pay some shop $60k to do it perfectly.

The wife had already approved the outlay for the replicar, which would be in the $27k range we guessed. It's just seeing how projects come in for the business, and whether the funds are readily available.

That's the main appeal of the slow approach vs. finding a done car. Will it cost more in the long run? Probably. Can I sell it for what I'll put in it? Who cares? I've had and sold 2 of these already, and it sucked selling, so I don't intend on selling this one ever (well, the girls can sell it when I'm dead.) :boring:

I'm the kind of guy that is very DIY...pretty much always saying "sure, I can do that..." whether I can when I start or not...I take my time, figure it out, and fix any mistakes. I built my own house, but I don't do carpet, so I hired that out. For the Chevelle, I'm planning on doing everything but powder coating the frame and suspension and machining the block. I have the time, space, and tools to do everything else.

I also have a lot of hot rodding friends, paint guys, body guys, engine guys, plus ALL OF YOU!

And, I have a secret weapon...my own lift in my shop, doesn't that give me some sort of magical points for ability where there really isn't any? :thumbsup:

Thanks for all the advice, keep it coming!

Lift's gotta go. That's cheatin! :D

My friend just did a LS5 chevelle and he assembled the car, engine and did th eframe himself. With paint, parts, machine work etc he has over 35k in reciepts. ANd that is on a PHOENIX AZ car its entire life. Boy its nice though.

I've had my car for 18 years. Bought it in South Dakota and it was pretty rough. Over this time, I've rebuilt the motor, brakes, suspension, rear end, and transmission. I've done little to no body or interior work.

When I restore it, my goal is to have everything mechanical already done. I'm close to that right now. Really only a rebuild on the rear drum brakes left to do, maybe a front end kit. I have wheels, tires, and everything else.

The original bench seat has a big hole in it covered by duct tape with a towel thrown over it. I don't have a ton of money or anything, and it will take me another ten years, probably, to get the whole thing done (maybe longer!), but that's the fun of it.

I love driving it and racing it, but I enjoy working on it more. When (if) I ever get it done, I would have to buy something else to work on anyway.

Started restoring my car 2 weeks ago..After the initial round of parts ordering, i am into it for $8-9 k........The second round is going to cost me around another $5-6k and thats just parts, i am doing the frame, body, interior etc.......Here's what it looks like right now.....Well the frame is media blasted and primed but this was the other day......

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y300/tg413/zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz-83.jpg

Here's what it will cost you in a nut shell.

As was pointed out to me when I looked a t 68 chevelle about a month ago. "you can't do one of these cars on a budget" No matter what you think it wil cost more. (Dan Dolin told me this)

I wanted a 68 real bad, found one that the body was actually in pretty decent shape, no rust to speak of. Still had no engine, no tranny, need paint interior etc etc.

As I started putting the numbers in my head, this $5000 car would have been at $25,000 in no time flat. As even at that I knew that I still would need to address all the stainless and chrome and other things beyond that. If you can do a bunch of it yourself you can maybe get away with it, but if you need most of it done by a professional you better have deep pockets.

This ain't no cheap hobby, makes sailboats look like they are for poor people!

How true. Better have a sit down with a catalog or two and an adding machine while your in the dream stage. You'll hit $27K faster 'n a speedin' bullet...not inc the car!

I've built 3 in the past 3 years. I do ll the work myself. All are frame off restorations. One is now in Denmark, the others I have. I am starting a 1969 Chevelle and a 1968 Impala. I end up at $18K and that is for eveything. They are small blocks but 2 were 383 strokers with iron heads. It acn be done for under $20K if you do the work yourself as you indicated in your first post. I have pictures of my finished cars in a post called barnfind. Check them out.

I started mine in 2004 and will probably finish it up next year.Time and time again I wished that I had bought one already finished but as I get closer to the finish line I realize that I have turned and replaced every bolt,nut switch,wire and every other piece of this car.
This is Mine and I Built it and no one can take that from me.AS for the money plan on 3 times what you think it will be ,I'm 32,000 in mine right now but it is completely new from the tires up.
You want to know about a 67 chevelle,ask me I am very well versed in that year model car.At tyhe end of the project you will be somewhat of an expert if you do the research and build it correctly
I wouldn't trade the experience for anything and I've sacrificed alot of other goodies that I would have liked to purchase along the way. But I wanted to finish this car and I will.When I'm gone my wife and her new FRIEND will look damn sharpe in my 67SS
It just depends on the individual and what you want.