I think I am using the right term here. Flash stall is what the converter jumps to right after a shift? How does that usually relate to the actual stall rpm of the converter?
My car doesn't dead hook and I don't have a transbrake, I can footbrake to ~3000rpm, but thats about it, so I can't really tell what the actual stall RPM is.
I was watching the movie of my 0mph to the 2-3 shift and I noticed that it appears that right after both the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the tach needle drops to 5000rpm, (after reviewing the movie, the 1-2 shift occured at about 6100rpm, the 2-3 at about 5800 or 5900 rpm. I have since reconfigured the governor to shift at 1-2 6500 and 2-3 6150, which is as close as I could get in like 4 days of governor tweaking to two shifts around 6300.
So if I am using the term right, do I have a 5000rpm flash stall converter?
How is this indicative, if it is, of the actual stall speed of the converter? I was told it would stall between 3600 and 4000, with a "goal" of 3800.

Any thoughts?
I don't see this as a bad thing as far as drag racing goes(?), but it seems like my slip percentages are way out there, like 15% or 25% until I hit very high engine rpm, then it tunes down to like 7%.

Matt

bump. I don't like to bump posts but I was curious about what this meant.. I figured its just as relevant in performance because of the slip issues with the converter..

matt

Flash stall is the rpm the converter will flash to from a low rpm condition to WOT. I would put your camera back on the tach and make a pass starting from an idle. Watch the rpm's to see where they flash to just as the car gets underway. This is your flash stall. Once you get underway and the internals of the converter are rotating, the stall speed is no longer in the equation, you're dealing with slip.

I thought you couldn't tell real stall speed or flash stall w/o a dead hook?
I just find it odd that the car shifted at 2 diff rpms and returned to 5k each time, and wondering what that meant about the converter.

matt

If you have a stick or full manual auto, get rolling about 10 mph in top gear (1:1). Hit WOT and watch the tach. The first point at which it stops is the flash stall. Mine flashes to 3700 then instantly goes to 4200, 3700 is my flash stall.

Is there anyway to do this on a non-full manual auto trans? Maybe disable the kickdown cable?

I ask because I have a sneaky suspiscion that my kickdown has never worked as long as I've had the car. I can roll the car til it hits third gear and WOT it and the tach swoops up to 2000-2100 then slooowly builds up more RPM. I'm pretty sure a properly working KDcable would put my car into 2nd(?) gear when I WOT it? I know it's not downshifting because I've tried cruising in third, stomping on the gas and then shifting into 2nd manually and the car pulls much harder than if i just stomp the gas and not touch the shifter.

Just keep the shifter in 1st, and mash it.

Mine hits about 3300-3500 for a second then burns the tires off. Feels really sluggish for that second or two, but speed has to catch up to the rpm before the rpms will go up alot higher.

Just went outside to check my cable, I was right. about 1/4" clearence between the carb's ball stud and the cable's slot thingy. I re-adjusted it so it kicks down at WOT, I'll check if it works tomorrow. If i did it right, I'll re-readjust so it kicks at somewhere btwn 1/2 and WOT.

In at least two years of ownership, the guy that owned it before me did more harm than good to the car. During that whole time he didn't even adjust the KD cable, took me a WHOLE 10 MINUTES to read the instructions on the manual and adjust it. Sheesh, poor Slowpoke had a rough life with that guy. Earl Sheib paint job and all.