Assuming of course that all typical safety measures are in place. ie, purge, window switch, WOT switch, hobbs switch; how much damage, if any, could you do to an engine if you sprayed a decent amount of nitrous (100+) at high RPM's (5000+)with NO load on the engine (like with the clutch disengaged) for a short burst (2 seconds MAX)


-Matt

Oh oh. Why do you ask? Did something happen?

I'll purge a race engine on the dyno with a little load against it. I'll hit the button for maybe .1-.2 seconds and it will zing it hard.

But if it sprayed for 2 full seconds, even with a window switch, that could zing it pretty hard with no load for that long. The only saving grace would be the window switch, maybe.

If this happened, was the throttle closed or open?

Ha, I probably should have put a disclaimer in there. No, I did not experience this.

I was in my Engineering Technology lab yesterday (being taught things i already know), and i started thinking about nitrous and power shifting.

I know that many people, when running N/A in a stick car will shift witout ever lifting their right foot. Just kick the clutch, and hope you hit the shifter hard enough.

Well over this coming summer, I might start hittin' the bottle, and I was thinking about ways to safely power shift while on juice.

Theoretically, couldnt you put a switch in the clutch pedal, or somewhere on the linkage, where when the pedal is pushed, it will stop the flow of nitrous, and when the pedal is released it will resume, that way you can stay WOT but dont have N20 flowing into the engine when there is no load on it (while shifting)?

Am I thinking into this too deeply? Would it be necessary to cut the flow for those few tenths of a second? Would I be better off just letting the window switch do it's job to stop the flow?

Or is it just totally horrible to even think about powershifting on the bottle?

Can you tell that some of my classes are boring? ;)


-Matt

It's not a good idea to run an engine past 4000rpms with no load, especially with nitrous. The damage will just depend on how strong you built your engine, forged parts, etc.
If I ever need to test my nitrous system, I will rev up to about 3500 rpm and blip the nitrous switch for a second. There is no need to take it up to 5000 rpms.
More than likely you will not damage it, but it is not worth the risk.
Daniel

Yep, a switch on the clutch pedal is definately a good idea. I use one on my GTO. Vertically gated M22 4-speed, 465HP N/A at the rear wheels with a 300 HP fogger.

Hey matt, you lookin the spray that puppy now. It is time for some tnt at Denton. Which kit are you thinking about?

Originally posted by 69bigblock:
Hey matt, you lookin the spray that puppy now. It is time for some tnt at Denton. Which kit are you thinking about? Frank, I havent really though about which kit yet. I'm staying N/A for now. By this summer though I might need it. You see, my group of friends has a sickness... we all want to be the fastest :D Between the roller 355, 400rwhp LS1, and other cars owned by my good friends, I might need the bottle soon :eek:
It's kind of like "keeping up with the Jones'."
I will be dynoing in 3 weeks, then I will be at Denton over Thanksgivng break. The need for N20
You gonna join me at the dyno/track Frank?


If/when i get around to juicing, I would like to try this clutch switch idea. I think I could get it to work well.


-Matt

you can use a window switch for your over rev concerns...just have it pilled a 100 or 2 rpm less than the rev limiter

Hey Matt, be glad to join you at the track, graemlins/thumbsup.gif maybe we can get Jason to come join us as well. Let me know when you do the n20 and I will give you a hand.