http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/bent.JPG

Need I say more?

WOW I feel like S$#@:sad:

The pushrod on top looks like the one I want in my engine.

one of these things is not like the other

Sorry bout that, How bad is the rest of the Carnage?

Ouch!:(

Sorry to see that Mark. Hope everything else is okay.

Kevin cautioned me about running the ball end style pushrods but I already had an almost new set of Cranes so I used them. With my intentions of increasing spring pressure I'm thinking I might want to step up to one piece pushrods too.

Good luck getting her back up and running quickly!

I think I may have dodged the bullet as far as the cam lobe goes, I'll know for sure when I try and lash it. The lifter looked OK from what I could see, the push rod came from the #2 exhaust valve. I put a spare push rod in it just to move the car from the trailer to the garage.

Last night wasn't real good. I also lost a bolt from the speedo cable clamp in the trans and it puked oil all over the place. Got that fixed at the track. The push rod happened on the last pass I was going to make for the day.

Something is really wrong and I can't figure it out. There is no reason the car is 5 tenths slower than it was last year. Check this out, I made my fastest pass of the day when I left it in third through the traps. I'm beginning to think I need more gear or its over cammed. My 60' times are 2.2s and its pretty consistent if I leave hard or roll into it. I have to check my times again but I think its real good from the 1/8th to the traps. I turned a couple of 14 flats at 100 mph, and I think all of it came from mid track on.

Time for one piece pushrods and locking nuts for the rockers. I'm beginning to think that if I want to get into the 12s at all, I need more cubes. Either way, the car is gonna sit for awhile until I can get some parts. If I wiped out the cam, she's out for a loooong time.

Mark, after looking @ your cam specs.....you may be a 'tad' overcammed.
in all seriousness a Holley double pumper would help a bunch since you have a stick.

I also had some pushrod issues & cleared them up by using the Comp High Tech P/Rs.

I'm beginning to think that if I want to get into the 12s at all, I need more cubes.

:noway::noway::noway:

http://www.classiccarrestorationparts.com/catalog/ZEXPerimeterPlateNitrous.jpg

Here's your 12's:thumbsup::yes::beers:

I think it's just the Texas air... your car likes Bremerton better.:D

I think it's just the Texas air... your car likes Bremerton better.:D

Probably more truth to that than you think, Greg.

Mike,
I'm sure it's having an impact on his times.:yes:
Also, not sure if his pushrods could have been causing issues?
Figured he'd hear it if they were making much noise.

Sorry to hear about the problems Mark, you will get it straightend out.

Dont stress Mark, you will get it figured out. I had the same problem with my speedo screw on the trans side. I kept losing it but luckily my cable is ziptied to the cross member which kept it from coming out. After a star lock washer and some locktite, hasnt happened since. Good luck on figuring things out and dont stress out. This is part of the hobby and thats why its fun. Its easy to get frustrated but this is really why we love them...

Mark,
That cam is no joke in a 396...healthy cam for a 454.
Your car should run 12s.....
Very sad to see that you broke.....
Hope no little parts got where they were not supposed to get.

Assume that you lift a bit shifting.... this causes your secs to close a bit....then take a bit of time to re-open. A DP is a pretty good idea for a std shift car.

WOW I feel like S$#@:sad:

Did Mark get these PRs from you?

Ouch!

Whats the specs on the combo???

Did Mark get these PRs from you?

I think its a rocker arm problem, not the push rods. I should be running locking nuts on them. Ordered a set from Competition Products today.

Hold on....
Are you saying you were running that gonzo cam and stock lock nuts? and your lash changed?

Ouch!

Whats the specs on the combo???

408 BBC
215 heads/stock valves
10:25 forged pistons
Lunati solid cam, 586/600/243/251@ 50/110 LSA 22/26 lash
1.75 hedders, 2.50" exhaust to the mufflers
SMI stage II Qjet/Edelbrock Performer matched to the heads/1"open spacer
Stock GM distributor w/Crane XR-i module/GM coil
TKO 600/3.73/26" MT ET Streets
15 straight pushrods:)

Hold on....
Are you saying you were running that gonzo cam and stock lock nuts? and your lash changed?

I checked the studs and they're good. If I keep this cam, I'll also get full roller rockers. No more 6k plus until I get the poly locks though.............

I was thinking about it and it probably happened due to excessive lash. With the rocker arm hitting the tip of the pushrod. Personally Mark, I think that cam will work with your combo, your just gona have to make some other changes first.

A double pumper would be easier to tune and as some have said be better for a manual. Too bad you arent still around I bet Mikes 770 holley would rip on your motor. Also might want to check into intakes.

ALSO!! did you degree in your cam when you installed it? that might be a problem right there.

I put mine in straight up, and when I checked it, it was 8 degrees retarded and killing bottom end power.

I was thinking about it and it probably happened due to excessive lash. With the rocker arm hitting the tip of the pushrod. Personally Mark, I think that cam will work with your combo, your just gona have to make some other changes first.

A double pumper would be easier to tune and as some have said be better for a manual. Too bad you arent still around I bet Mikes 770 holley would rip on your motor. Also might want to check into intakes.

ALSO!! did you degree in your cam when you installed it? that might be a problem right there.

I put mine in straight up, and when I checked it, it was 8 degrees retarded and killing bottom end power.

I may just try a Holley and see, and yes Dave, you told me so:D

I concur with the excessive lash. I even went 4 thousands tighter but I think the nut backed off the stud some. I didn't degree the cam, no time or wheel.

What kind of rockers are you using now?

'69Brian said
"What kind of rockers are you using now?"

15 good ones?

You sure about that?

13-15 good rockers?

I may just try a Holley and see, and yes Dave, you told me so:D

What was that? I CAN'T hear YOU.:yes: You do need about a 750 DP, and You HAVE to buy some Poly's. Or You could just buy some Crane Roller's, and They come with Poly's. You're way past stock not's and balls.:yes:

Wow Mark sorry to hear of the damage. On another note you should be able to run 12s with that combo. My 396 did with a smaller cam but I did run an 800DP carb and a free flowing exhaust. Also make sure your getting full throttle:D

Yes Greg I remember that conversation. Im running 3/8" one piece chromemoly rods:yes:

What kind of rockers are you using now?

Comps Magnum roller tip

What was that? I CAN'T hear YOU.:yes: You do need about a 750 DP, and You HAVE to buy some Poly's. Or You could just buy some Crane Roller's, and They come with Poly's. You're way past stock not's and balls.:yes:

Working on some full rollers and I ordered some poly locks in the mean time. Will also get some one piece pushrods when I get the $$. I ain't stopping until I get to the 12s or parts come through the pan:yes:

OK, Dave just this one time. "Dave was right" There I said it:D Yes, I'm even at the point where I'm going to try a Holley.

Working on some full rollers and I ordered some poly locks in the mean time. Will also get some one piece pushrods when I get the $$. I ain't stopping until I get to the 12s or parts come through the pan:yes:

OK, Dave just this one time. "Dave was right" There I said it:D Yes, I'm even at the point where I'm going to try a Holley.

That's MORE like it.:yes:

If You can, just wait till You can get the roller's. Hell, I bet the poly's are 1/4 of the price.

Any how, I pray Your motor to be safe. You'll be allright. I might think about havin to pull the manifold, to try to clean out any piece's, and try on of those Magnetic oil pan plug's. Can't hurt.;)

Might wana try getting a decent size magnet and fish it around the bottom of the oil pan and see if you can get anything out the drainplug.

Ok Mark here is my unsolicited advice for what to do. Pull the stock 396 and put it in the corner of the garage then look for a 454 bore it out to .60 over and put a stroker kit in it to make it a 496 and get into the 10s like Brian:yes::yes::D:thumbsup::beers: Im sure Darryl has a block for you to use and then you would have a good excuse to come back up here to install said BB motor. :thumbsup:

Ok Mark here is my unsolicited advice for what to do. Pull the stock 396 and put it in the corner of the garage then look for a 454 bore it out to .60 over and put a stroker kit in it to make it a 496 and get into the 10s like Brian:yes::yes::D:thumbsup::beers: Im sure Darryl has a block for you to use and then you would have a good excuse to come back up here to install said BB motor. :thumbsup:

I already have the block.....................................;)

I already have the block.....................................;)


OOOHHHHH NICE!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Mark, can you describe what it feels like at the track going through the gears? Does it pull hard at a certain rpm? Does it lean over? How much mph do you gain from the 1/8th to the 1/4?

I would say you could maximize your motor for alot less than just forgetting about it and doing a whole new build.

Mark, can you describe what it feels like at the track going through the gears? Does it pull hard at a certain rpm? Does it lean over? How much mph do you gain from the 1/8th to the 1/4?

I would say you could maximize your motor for alot less than just forgetting about it and doing a whole new build.

BrIan,

The car feels good pulling through all the gears although I can't get it to hook. My fastest run was when I left it in third gear. Here are my three fastest passes:
R/T .518 .696 .628
60' 2.23 2.23 2.27
330 6.01 6.02 6.09
1/8 ET 9.09 9.11 9.20
1/8 MPH 80.06 79.60 79.80
1000 ET 11.7 11.7 11.8
1/4 ET 13.95 14.00 14.06
1/4 MPH 101.44 100.56 101.24

As you can see, its consistent. I think I'm at the point where I need lower gears, something in the 4.10 or so range. Maybe now I need the 4.56s:) Loader and I had a talk about it and maybe it needs more timing and more octane. If I could figure out how to get Mike's 770 down here, I'd try it. I'm going with full roller rockers and girdles to stablize my valve train (thanks Mike P:thumbsup:). If you have any suggestions, I'd be glad to give them a shot. Hell, if I'm willing to try a Holley......................

Well fist off you need to get it to hook. I was able to get 1.7 1.8 60' times to get the 12.9 ET. Taking off in third will not do it:noway: if you go from your 2.2s to 1.8s that should be at least 1/2 second off of your 1/4 mile time.:yes:

Second yes you may need 4:10-4:56 gears with your combo to get it to pull that heavy car down the track.

Dont give up ( I know you wont:D) its within your grasp.:yes:

I didn't launch in third, just didn't shift to 4th. I tried to leave hard, roll into it, softer tire pressures, etc. NADA:( I need to get the Moser rear underneath it and get true slicks.

Man, I wish I would have said something to you when I noticed you didn't have poly locks a month and a half ago.

The cam isn't degree'd in to know where it is actually at and I would run it advanced to gain some dynamic compression and boost up your mid range. That big of cam with 10-1 will kill the power out of the hole if it's straight up or retarded. You don't have the benefit of having cubic inches to offset it.

Again, wish you were back up here because I would love to get my hands dirty on your car and help make it fast.

Your 3.73 R&P and 2.87 1st gear I think would be enough for now.....
This should be enough to get her going, even with that pretty healthy cam
You have the no-hop lowers, 26" DRs...not sure about the uppers, the shocks, the rear springs, an air bag at least for the passenger side, the front springs, the front shocks, the front swaybar...maybe grease the front end components....bet you do...

Could you update on what is under the Chevelle?

edit:
It is not what's up front (396) slowing the car down...it is what is or is not done to the chassis

First thing I would do would be to get it to hook.(More power will not make this better), or do the gears since if you swap the gears after you hook it might spin again with the new gears.

Second I would degree the cam.

Also your gaining about 20mph on average which is about where I was before my new fuel system, no I am averaging 23mph gain. So maybe taking the fuel sock off and a different fuel pump might help down the road.

Then when you have it hooking and all that then I would swap to a good tall dual plane or single plane(if this is what the small big blocks like gotta ask doc on that one) along with a good double pumper.

Your 3.73 R&P and 2.87 1st gear I think would be enough for now.....
This should be enough to get her going, even with that pretty healthy cam
You have the no-hop lowers, 26" DRs...not sure about the uppers, the shocks, the rear springs, an air bag at least for the passenger side, the front springs, the front shocks, the front swaybar...maybe grease the front end components....bet you do...

Could you update on what is under the Chevelle?

edit:
It is not what's up front (396) slowing the car down...it is what is or is not done to the chassis

true his gearing is ok, but I would like to see some 4.56s and 4.88s with 30" tall tires. This would hook better and get the rpm up down the track.

Oh sure, more gear and 30" would really help...blow his axles!
I was just thinking he should 1.9 easily with his 3.73 and TKO and 26"

Oh sure, more gear and 30" would really help...blow his axles!
I was just thinking he should 1.9 easily with his 3.73 and TKO and 26"

Gotta step up if you wana play with the big dogs:D

You done with your motor yet?

Gotta step up if you wana play with the big dogs:D

You done with your motor yet?

Glad you asked. There was a slight shipping delay of a key set of goodies. Probably some sand in the box now too.
I have the tools and degree wheel here..... Some more cleaning to do and stuff to paint, bolts to get.... Posting too much on TC too....:thumbsup: I see a few more people with my cam so :thumbsup::thumbsup:, even communicated with a few of them. Dude had 475 horse with more CR and open heads. Again, 400 REAL Horses will be enough. I should have 475 ft lbs torque off-idle....not bad for a 8.8:1 engine...probably 535 ft lbs peak.
Wanna Desktop Dyno 10307 Crane?

Looking for a good day to put all the suspension stuff into my Elky.
Might as well upgrade the ign too, 'proof' it on the 350. I only pick up 18-19 mph top end so gotta pull the fuel sock, etc, etc. I have 3/8 line.
I'd really like to maximize things before hitting the track...heck, have been gathering parts forever.

My low-buck low RPM engine should be fine with the 5400rpm upshifts....striking fear into the hearts of all the 6 cyl cars....cam will be done before the pistons or pushrods get 'iffy'


Mark,
didya get all the little pieces out of the valley yet?

The steep TKO first gear, 26" tire's, and 3:73's, will get Him off the line just fine. Suspension ain't that bad. ;)

You got bigger fish to fry right now. Get the Motor straightened out, then on to the suspension. :thumbsup:

I really don't think You need the Moser rear. Little bit o'cash into Your 12 bolt, it'll hold just fine.:yes:

Mark, rebuild the spread bore Holley you have and try it. It is a 790 cfm I think and a mechanical secondary DP, and it will fit your existing intake without an adapter.

I really don't think You need the Moser rear. Little bit o'cash into Your 12 bolt, it'll hold just fine.:yes:

My axles are a bit worn and the right tube has a repair kit in it. Didn't know this until Mike and I changed the rear gears. I think the only way I'm going to get it to hook is to go to full slicks. I keep remembering Franks axle with slicks and I really don't want that to happen. It doesn't squat anymore thanks to the lift bars and launches pretty straight, just can get it to hook. I don't think the track prep was the greatest though.

Mike P, thanks for the info on the Holley, I thought it was only a 650. When I get some money ahead it will go to SMI.

What do You mean "repair" kit? You mean an axle saver bearing? You just need a new set of axle's, and a set of bearings. If You got stock axle's, you need to upgrade anyhow. You're not anywhere near overpowering a 12 bolt.

A set of Yukon axle's = 250.00
A set of wheel bearing's = 20.00

about 2 hour's under the car, and it's good to go, really easy job.

Here,

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=423

http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=4743

What do You mean "repair" kit? You mean an axle saver bearing? You just need a new set of axle's, and a set of bearings. If You got stock axle's, you need to upgrade anyhow. You're not anywhere near overpowering a 12 bolt.

A set of Yukon axle's = 250.00
A set of wheel bearing's = 20.00

about 2 hour's under the car, and it's good to go, really easy job.

No, I mean the axle bearing is smaller on the right side than the left. I don't know what you'd call it. The axle is worn, not badly, but worn. I was going to just replace the axles until I found this out. I'd rather overbuild the rear and not worry about it than break an axle with slicks.

If I was still there, I'd pull the rear and have you work your magic on it. Replace the right tube, weld both tubes, and c clip eliminators. However, since I've moved to another planet, I'll have to go with the housing and axle package and reuse my posi.

Gotta get Mike to chime in here. I think You're talking bout an axle saver. Just new axle's, and bearing's, you'd be good to go. As long as the housing is O.K., it'd be the cheapest, and safe way to go.

Dave, I think you're right. I looked axle savers up on the net and it looks what I have. The oil seal on the right axle is smaller that stock and the axle is grooved. The bearing is held in by a snap ring. Must be what it is. I thought the tube was toast. If that's all I need, that'd be great.

I think so. Let's see what Mike remember's.

Put her up on jack stands and take some pics!

Put her up on jack stands and take some pics!

I'll post some tomorrow. I don't know if you'll be able to tell with the axle in the tube or not.

Not really, if You do have axle saver's in there, I'd get rid of them real quick. New alloy's like I linked above, and some fresh, real bearing's, You're goodtogo.:thumbsup: