As I mentioned is a different post, I am building a 350 motor. I am installing a built-up TH350 with stage two shift kit. Is there any reason I can not use the factory convertor that came with the car?
Will I destroy the stock convertor with over 400 hp and over 400 ft. lbs. of torque?
Thanks in advance.
Glenn

You're not going to harm a stock converter with a built up 350, it will work the other way. The stock converter won't agree with the engine, and you'll have problems at idle and general low rpm performance.

I have to admit that losing low rpm performance was probably the last thing I would have thought would happen. The car is going to be used for pleasure driving so can you recomend ( roughly ) what rpm range stall to use? The gearing is a stock factory 273 posi unit.
Thanks,
Glenn

What are the cam specs? Basically,the 2.73's will be the limiting factor due to flash rpm vs. cruise rpm..something in the 2200-2500 range is about it.

Something along the lines of an 11" would be fine. Most will have stall speeds in the 2500 area with a small block, but actual numbers vary with the exact torque input and weight of the car, plus the altitude you run in. Plan on spending roughly $250-275 for a decent one that has dual anti-ballooning plates, furnace brazed fins, good hub, etc. along with a good warranty should the unlikely occur.

I want to set the drive train up so it will be a good around town pleasure driver. As posted in a different post, I plan to have about 400 hp and 400 ft lb torque and use possibly the Edelbrock performer RPM heads and RPM cam maybe even a comp xe268 or xe274.
From what I am understanding between these two posts is that not only should I have a stall of 22-2500, I should also change my gears to around a 355.
Does this sound like a good street ( pleasure ) driving set up?
Thanks,
Glenn

Not a bad plan IMO!

You don't want the RPM cam for what you are after. Stay with something smaller. It likes 10.5:1 or better compression and 3000 stall to really be effective. It doesn't have much bottom end and will be completely out of it's power band at cruise with anything less than 3.55's. Go with a smaller Crane, Compw or Lunati(preferred) grind and you'll be happier. Trust me - BTDT.

BTW - My signature will soon change to the Lunati 276/284 solid as soon as I get time to install it.

Troy.

You sound like your going to run the exact same set-up as me but im thinking of going with 3:73 gears. Im trying to decide between the xe268 or the xe274 cam.

As I look through the Summit catalog, I see a B&_M BMM20412 ($239.88) and a B&M BMM20404 ($149.88). To the uneducated eye (mine) the specs are basically the same. Which is the better one (obviously the more expensive one but why) and why is there a $90.00 price difference? Also would this be the correct match-up for a cam with an intake duration of 221-230 (power range of 2000-6000)?
Thanks,
Glenn

The B&M BMM20412 is the 2400 Holeshot,and is a better quality convertor than the cheaper unit.I run BMM20412 in my 70 SS454 and am quite happy with it for what it is..it flashes to 2800 with my combo,and with a small block,I'm sure 2400 would be about it.

I have ran the 11inch TCI Break Away and it flashed to 2400 in my El Camino.
SB350:-S/R Torker heads 202/160 valves-pocket ported,10.2:1,Performer RPM Holley 650DP,hyd cam 278 221 467 110,1 3/4 headers + 2 1/2 Exh,3.42 gears,26 tall tire.

This was a very good performing set up that was well matched.I also had the same engine,rear end and trans set up, but I used the Isky 280 Mega cam, 280 232 485 108.

I can tell you this.It needed more converter and slightly more gear for that cam to be matched well.
I think it would have greatly preferred a 10inch 2800-3200 converter and a set of 3.73's.If I had say a 28 tall tire I think the cam would have wanted a gear around 3.73-3.90.
When I swapped to the 278 221 467 110 cam the thing woke up in around the town driving applications, in a big way.The bottom end was a ton better.

Reconsider that B&M purchase.I have friends that have used the B&M units that have not returned any gains over a stock converter.Some have lasted and some have not.
As I was saying I have the 11inch TCI Break Away.I also have an 11inch BTE.I have not used it yet.Doing a side by side looks comparison the BTE looks like a race converter.Heavy duty construction with dual anti balloning plates and such.Visualy it makes the TCI look like a POS.
I have not used it yet so I can not speak of it's performance.

Oldani Motorsports (Steve) is who I went through to get mine deliverd to my door.It was about the same price as a TCI Break Away purchased and shipped through Jegs.

Thanks, I have been quite happy with the quality of the BTE street/strip converters so far. No bad feedback on any so far in their 9.5"-10"-11"-12" ones I have out there. They have good standard features for the money IMO, many of which are not included in street/strip converters from other places. Furnace brazed fins along with tack-welding in critical spots, dual anti-ballooning plates, good hub, new Torrington bearings, one-year warranty on the sprag and stator, pressure tested and balanced, etc. They can be fine-tuned with fin angle changes too when I order them, in case someone wants to tweak stall speed a bit up or down.

Ok everyone, thanks a bunch!
I will most likely be making a decision in the next month or so.
Now the hard part really begins...my wife thinks I am only going to replace a leaky gasket smile.gif

Yup those gaskets have taken a sharp price increase lately :D