Hi guys, first of all, its still slow, lol.

My Combo (very detailed) (http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/12/1512.html?#000000)

I swapped my Alum Qjet EGR intake for a Holley 300-36 "Contender" Hi-Rise dual plane. Also got rid of the 1inch open spacer/adapter for using my Holley carb.

I also got a old/new moroso lifter valley shield from Pat Kelley to try to keep thing even, the Qjet intake had the stock GM splash shield.

And converted my HEI to external coil using a modified dust cover that IgnitionMan gave me, thanks Dave!!

All in all, it made a small difference, but still made a difference.

Here's my previous best:

60- 2.420
330-6.675
1/8-10.141
MPH- 71.37
(purple spring in Holley, Shifted at 4500RPM, 18 degree initial, 38total@3000RPM)


That was with the same basic engine tune as I run now, but I ran shorter (27in vs 28in) tires and lighter wheels (alum IROC vs Steel Rally) back then. Now I'm back to using the steel wheels.

Here's the previous best on steel wheels/28in tire:

60'- 2.XXX (not readable on slip)
330-6.590
1/8-10.176
mph-69.5

Here's a run from 2 weeks ago with the EXACT same tune as I used tonight, last run before the intake swap:
(steel/28in)
60'- 2.459
330'-6.716
1/8 -10.190
MPH -70.97

For that run I had changed to a tall yellow spring from a purple, hoping to run faster but actually slowed down about .04 sec from other runs that night.

Here's the runs from tonight that I used the same burnout/staging technique as the ones above:

All runs with tall yellow spring and Rally/28inch

60'- 2.383
330'-6.664
1/8- 10.165
MPH- 70.45

60'- 2.397
330'-6.671
1/8- 10.158
MPH- 70.59

60'- 2.396
330'-6.614
1/8- 10.008
MPH- 72.58

The thing I found most interesting about tonight was that ALL my runs were between 70-72MPH, while on other night's it would range anywhere from 67 to 71.4, no matter how close to each other the runs were or that I used the same burnout/staging and shift points.

Another interesting thing is that I'm still leaving the line at 1200RPM, but now I'm hearing 2 small chirps from my tire when I launch, yet my 60ft times are a little better, but all over the place. . So now I've got a wee-bit of traction trouble but a higher MPH also, so I'm guessing the intake swap did some good. At least I'm not running any slower, and it is a tiny bit more consistent.

Holds a smoother idle while cold to boot, lol.

Cool. Speed is relative. The fun is in tuning and maximizing what you have smile.gif

Looks good

Congrats!

Have you tried shifting later?
My tach is busted but I was shifting later than normal when I went to the track and it made a considerable difference in ET and MPH

My 60' were nearly the same as those, but I was alternating between having stalling or wheel spin, does yours feel like it has a dead spot?

Oh, BTW how fresh are your plug wires and did you check the plugs and such?

I noticed a considerable SOTP improvement after replacing my wires with MSD supers (granted one of the old ones was burned on one end and another was getting close)

I didn't see your specs before my last post, my cam is a bit larger, that's prolly the biggest reason I can shift later

I would try shifting at 5000-5200,and cross the stripe in 2nd gear.
A little bit of convertor and some gear would make a huge difference,but I'm not telling you anything that you don't know smile.gif
Glad to hear you're having fun-congrats on the new bests too graemlins/thumbsup.gif

5-5200 is closer to what I shift at judging by ear but my combo is a bit different

slightly larger cam (.454/.454 lift)
ported 882s
higher compression (8.5-9)
larger carb (650 spreadbore mech. second.)

To answer some questions

Plug wires- the wires are new 8mm Autolite "Porfessionals". I changed them out about a month ago. I used to have Accel 8.8mm, but when I put the 8mm new wires, it had much better throttle response around town, but no real changes at the strip.

Plugs- Need to changed. They're Accel Header plugs, and I've been told by IgnitionMan and Brian (Motor Martyr) that these are junk. Also, they've been fouled out a lot. Some punks at the suspension shop decided that my floats need adjustment (they didn't, my choke just wasn't working) and when I got the car back I ended up fouling out the same set of plugs 2-3 times on the way to school before figuring out that the needle/seat was stuck open and the carb was dumping way too much fuel into the intake.

I re-adjusted the floats, fixed the choke, and I just pulled the plugs, turned on the stove and put the plugs in the flame to burn out all that fuel in there, brushed them and cleaned them and put them back in, lol.

I also don't know how to read spark plugs.

Shifting- the trans or shifter seems to lag a bit. I hold the car in 1st up til I see the needle reach 4000 and have the shifter into the second gear detent by 42-4300, but it stays in 1st up til about 5000rpm and then shifts into second. Doesn't feel like it is slipping and the shift is nice and firm, just takes a while between moving the shifter and making the shift.

I think I'm crossing the line(in 2nd) at under 4000 due to the 2.73 and tall tires.

I tried shifting higher but it seems to make the same power at 5000RPM as 5500RPM, so I just used the lower shift point.

I actually had a lot of good matches last night with 5.0 Fox body stangs and 3rd Gen camaros, even an old 30's "period correct" hot rod. All of us were running about the same MPH (70-72MPH) but the 5.0s and and Camaros were running in the 9.6-9.8 ET range. I'm happy to say though, I holeshotted them all but one, lol, all my reaction times were under .600 (.500 perfect).

So judging by the other cars running the same MPH as me, if I can get my sixty foots down to 2.2ish, I should be running what they're running. (my timesplips have opponents times too so I used them as a comparison to mine).

If the rain stops before next thursday, I'll play with my timing curve since I know I'm not all-in until 4000RPM. Want to bring that down to at least 3000RPM. And Maybe I'll add bigger jets (stock are either 64 or 64.5, might try some 67s I have). Then that should be it for now. I'll put the car back on daily driver status and resist the temptation to run every week.

Meanwhile I need to get a job and step up the gears to probably 3.55/Posi, try to find some cheap Drag Radials, add a Transgo shift kit, maybe actually rebuild the trans (original trans, dunno if it has ever been gone through), and add a trans cooler.

Trans cooler and shift kit will probably come first as they're less expensive and I can install them myself.

I was thinking of cutting the tail pipes off (crimped muffler-shop stuff), but I really like having a quiet-ish car.

Sounds good, having fun is what its all about, oh and slaying ponys :D

my best was a 9.3, but like I said I was having lots of problems off the line and know it can be improved at least a little. Strangely enough my best ET was only at 73 MPH while my best MPH the night was 77

I really like the transgo kits and they're all my dad will install and still keep any kinda of warranty on the rebuild.

Great reaction times BTW, I need to improve there...

best was a .8, the rest were worse, some were accented by the lack of throttle response

Yeah, the only problem is I get real close to .500 all the time, always afraid I'm gonna red light. But since I'm not racing for money or points, I don't really care. I red lighted once last night.

Gotta make a correction though, all the lights were under .700, usually in the low .6xx last night.

2 weeks ago I cut a .496 green. I thought anything under .500 would be red???

I'm having fun with this even though the car is only a mid-high 15 second ride. Its fun learning what the combo likes and doesn't like. I just want to learn a tiny bit about drag racing before I start adding more power.

Enrique, alot of the tracks have changed timing systems and now a perfect light at those tracks is .ooo These tracks also show a red as a negative (-) number. You may have been running at one of those tracks. Double check with a track official to be sure you're running on a .500 green or a .000 green tree. That'd be the only way to get a .496 green unless it was during dial-in elims on a double red pass and you were the chaser and your red was later than his. Then your tree would show green with a .496. Remember,first or worst as far as DQ's are concerned.

Randy

I'm thinking it is .500 perfect because I did red-light last night with a .473. But the .496 was green according to my brother (waiting in the burn out box behind me.).

Slowpoke you're going to go far. Great attitude. BTW what your tranny again?

Congrats on the new bests. Have funing making the car faster. You will learn what the combo likes and doesn't like. If you have the springs for it I ould try shifting a little later as suggested.

Richard

Jobberone, stock TH350 w/ deep pan, at least 107,190 miles on it, and judging by the way the rest of the car was when I got it, I don't think it has ever been rebuilt.

Richard, I've tried shifting all the way up til 5000RPM on a clean run, the trans didn't shift until a bit over 5500RPM and it didn't do much of a difference.

The latest I've shifted it was a run where I shifted a 5500 are the engine went a littlbe above 6k before the shift went in but not before the alternator/water pump belt flew off. That run really picked up in the last 330ft, I was two tenths slower than the previous run at the 60/330ft but by the time I reached the 660 mark, I had actually matched and beat the run before it!

I'm guessing tossing the belt free'd up some HP and let me make up for the lost time in the 60ft?

I just haven't had much success shifting it high, although with this new manifold the engine doesn't seem to "give up" anywhere, while the other one started dropping off at about 4500rpm. The biggest problem I'm feeling is when the trans shifts into second, I seem to lose a lot of momentum.

I don't trust the street tires all that much either. 2 weeks ago I stried shifting it later and when 2nd gear hit, the tires spun quite a bit, didn't really like that sensation.

Now if the rain would go away, I might get a chance to adjust my timing curve.

Oh yeah, you guys think I should toss the flex-fan and put on a clutch fan?

Will a Big Block fan fit in a Small Block shroud?