Last year I posted a problem I was having with my rear brakes on my chevelle

To make a long story short, 68 chevelle SS 396, new disk conversion done on the front(by myself), new rear drum brakes done by local mechanic. Before I did the swap(front disk conversion), my rear brakes were smoking when applying the brakes, thought maybe the new rear brakes were adjusted too tight. After we did the front disk conversion, we loosened up the rear brakes just to make sure. The rear brakes started to smoke when driving, but then stopped smoking. Brought the car back tonight from about a 20 mile drive, and the backs were smoking like crazy. The rims were extremely hot, and obviously the drums were as well. It smelled like the brake shoes were burning up. The emergency brake does not work, so I don't know if that could have anything to do with it. I could really use some advice.

I have looked at the posts, some say rubber hose may be collapsing. I don't have rubber hosing to the brakes, mine are all steel lines.

Could warped drums cause these rear brakes to heat up that much.
What about the valve proportioning valve.
I also thought about the junction block on top of the rear end where the lines are split off of.

I have no problems in the front disk brakes only in the rear.

Please if anyone has any advice please help, this is really ruining my enjoyment while I drive my Chevelle.

HovsSS

I don't have rubber hosing to the brakes, mine are all steel lines.

I also thought about the junction block on top of the rear end where the lines are split off of.

Do you not have a rubber line to the rear junction block ??

No as far as I can tell, there is no rubber at all. I haven't gone under the car, so I don't know for sure. I would assume that I have steel lines coming off of that junction block, and running down to the rear of the drum brake. Just looked and yes there is no rubber line just steel line that runs along the axle into the drum brake.

You should have a rubber/flexable line/hose going to the junction block from the brake line.
If not,your going to break a line due to flexing.
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=EBH-019&Category_Code=FLEXHOSE

The emergency brake does not work, so I don't know if that could have anything to do with it.

If the emergency brake cable is binding it could certainly have something to do with it. Do the brakes feel like they are "dragging" when you drive ? Let them totally cool off, jack the back up and try to turn a wheel. If it feels tight there is obviously a problem. Did the guy that did the rear brakes for you know what he was doing ? Might want to have someone else take a look at it. If you want a recommendation, let me know exactly what town you are in and I will see if I can find someone.

It could also have something to do with the disc coversion. Was it a kit or something you pieced together ?

If you had the rear brakes done by a mechanic, I'd have him take a look. If that isn't possible, here are a few things to narrow down the problem.

1. Jack up the car, take off the rear wheels, and try spinning the drum. There should be some slight drag but you should still be able to rotate it. If there isn't excessive drag, continue to step 3
2. If there is drag, it is either mechanical or hydraulic. Since mechanical is easier to diagnose, start with that. First loosen the emegency brake cables at the junctions. Check drag. If not fixed, you'll have to check the adjusters on the back of the backing plate. Loosen them to get the desired drag. Now, pump the brakes. If after pumping the brakes the drum has too much drag, your problem is most likely hydraulic, the fluid is not returning. It will most likely be the rubber line from the frame to the axle. Although it could be the junction block or the wheel cylinders (not very likely to be wheel cylinders because the odds of them going bad at the exact same time are pretty low and I assume they were changed by the mechanic). Another suspect could be the master cylinder, was it changed during the brake overhaul?
3. If there is no drag the first check, pump the brakes and then check for drag, if there is, it is once again a hydraulic problem.
4. IF there is no drag even after pumping the brakes, take it for a test drive to get the brakes to where they are hot and put it up on stands again. Remove the rear wheels and check for drag again. If there is none then you are likely over working the drums, whether it be a distribution block problem, hold off valve problem, or a master cylinder problem.

Since you've been dealing with this problem for so long, a brake pressure gauge may be beneficial. It will show what pressure is being applied to the rear drums and also if the pressure is being released when the brakes are not in use.

Good Luck!

The guy who did the work has done work for me for years, so I trust what he does. The parking brake cable is disconnected from the rear brakes, so I don't think there is anything that could bind up.

And yes, when I start the car, there seems to be some drag to the car when I take off.

The disc conversion kit was purchased from a reputable conversion kit dealer.

From what I am understanding about the flex line, there should be rubber hose from the junction block to a steel line, or should the rubber hose be connected to the junction block which is located on top of the axle?

This has nothing to do with the drums?

Thanks
Hovs SS

Yes, the rubber line goes from the frame to the junction block on the rear axle. Then, from the junction block, the steel lines go to the wheel cylinders.

Just remember, the frame is traveling on the suspension and the rear end is unsprung. Therefore, there must be a flexible connection between the two allowing for suspension travel

I ordered a rubber hose from our sponser to replace mine with. I sure hope that this solves my problem. Thanks for all the help I realy appreciate it.

HovsSS

If the hose does't fix it look for residual pressure in the system /after a drive crack open one of the rear bleeders if fluid is under pressure you have a restriction/ could be a pinched steel line / misadjusted master cyl. pushrod/