How exactly do you do a gravity bleed on brakes? I'm having the same problem as several others with not being able to get juice to the rear.

Thanks, Jeff

Fill the master,then just crack open the bleeder valve at the passenger rear a little and wait.
Check periodically once it starts to drip,close and do driver side rear.
Find a friend or family member to do some leg work......:beers:

Sometime's gravity just ain't gonna do it. I like to use a vacaum pump to pull the fluid through.

You could just break down, and hire a brake shop to use Their machine.

Don't know if this would work on a car, but I've seen Cleveland disk brakes on a light airplane "bled" from the wheel cylinder up with a clean oil can full of brake fluid and a short piece of plastic tubing

Gravity bleeding works great...if the system already has fluid in it. If it's dry all the way to the master, it takes a L-O-N-G time for the fluid to work down to the wheel cylinder.

I gravity bleed for minor work at the wheel cylinders; and pressure bleed for major work, empty systems, or anything that involves work near the master.

"Reverse injection" bleeding works GREAT--but ONLY if the entire system is CLEAN. Otherwise you just push contaminated fluid backwards through the plumbing--and if you have an ABS system, all that contamination goes through the expensive ABS actuators and such. In addition, you CANNOT reverse bleed as the final procedure--you then have to bleed in the normal direction after reverse bleeding. The bleeder screw is generally HIGHER than the tube coming out of the wheel cylinder; that leaves a pocket of air in the cylinder that won't come out unless you bleed it the normal direction. There's a company selling special, expensive tools for reverse bleeding, I for one wouldn't spend a dime on them.

Vacuum bleeding is a total waste of effort; it does nothing better than gravity or pressure bleeding; but if you don't seal the threads of the bleeder screw--or you pull air past a drum brake wheel cylinder seal--you'll have air bubbles FOREVER and you'll never know when the system is actually bled properly.

It appears that with nothing but air in the lines from the master down, it just needed a liitle boost. After pressure bleeding, it shoots a mean stream from the rear fittings. I didn't have this problem on my last Chevelle (both 70's with hold off's), so I didn't think anything special was required. Anyway, I now have brakes. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Jeff

I vacuum bleed the system till I got fluid, then do the regular old have the Wife pump the pedal trick. Usually, I can see the big bubble come through, after working at the MC, then go to the pressure bleed.

My wife once complained that I only need her for the "pump the pedal trick" but I convinced her that if she is in the car and I am under it at least she knows where I am.