Anyone just using a standard grade 8 bolt on the lower control arms? Don't realy want to spend $6 a bolt. Doesn't need to look factory, but also don't want the cotntrol arm to fall off as well, so prob need a locking nut as well.

I am. Front and rear suspension. Grade 8 from hardware store, with regular nut and lock washer. Five years, haven't had any problems. There's many guys on here running the same.

Works well for me...I use a grade 8 locking nut or a nyloc with the GR 8 bolt and a drop of Locktite.

Cool, I was thinking of using the nylon lockers as well with some blue loctite. Hopefully targeting end of July to get frame blasted/painted/assembled.

Thanks

Grade 8 is fine but please use Nylock nuts.

Grade 8 are fine for the rear arms (stock are grade 5). Poly lock/ nylock nuts are okay but all metal lock nuts such as Stovers are even better and they`re reusable. Be careful what you use in the front the factory LCA arm bolts have a special shoulder on one end. You can run hardware store bolts but one side (the head side) will be loose in the holes and eventually egg shape the holes in the frame. Watch using poly lock or nylock nuts in the LCAs too because they can get really close to the header tubes and they only work to about 350* then they loose their locking ability forever. The Stovers work through elastic deformation of the nut itself (one side of the hole will look oval or slightly triangular) so they`re good for MUCH higher temps. Mark SC&C

The Stovers work through elastic deformation of the nut itself (one side of the hole will look oval or slightly triangular) so they`re good for MUCH higher temps. Mark SC&C


THANK YOU!!!! I have been preaching the importance of these style lock nuts forever! I have personally seen nylocks melt on motor mount bolts and front suspension bolts! I now use rocker arm nuts because most auto parts stores will have them in stock and they are the same locking style.