Hey,

I have massive wheel hop in my '72...how do I get rid of it? Will ladder bars help alot or just a little? New Bushings?

Thanks!

Ben

Some specs might help.

350V8 (stock with intake and headers)
M20 4spd
10 Bolt with 3:45ish gears and posi.

Dick Miller Racing

Describe the actual suspension more. Is it stock height? Boxed arms? etc.. You don't have to go all out to get a nice suspension.

I put all new RUBBER bushings in the rear of my 71 and dropped it about an inch and the wheel hop prectically disappeared.

It all depends on what your core problem is. Add-ons may not be necessary to fix it.

Starters: Get the suspension in good shape again. Replace all the rear suspension bushings, which are likely worn. I use Poly except in the rear-end "ears" which are rubber.

Correct springs and a good set of shocks, and a rear end that's not raised up all help control it the way the factory intended.

If that doesn't fix it - and I think it likely will - then you should look to additional pieces of equipment or modifications to make it stop.

The suspension is stock except for air shocks that the previous owner put in. They hold air fine. The rear is jacked up a little but not much.

I have a set of ladder bars that I took off because I was working on the rear and wanted to sandblast and paint them.

So I'm thinking that I should do bushings and put the ladder bars back on?

Thanks

Ben

The suspension is stock except for air shocks that the previous owner put in. They hold air fine. The rear is jacked up a little but not much.There's your problem, the car being jacked up moves the Instant Center to somewhere behind the axle. This is bad. :yes:

If you want to keep the car sitting high, you need "No-Hop" bars, such as the ones Edelbrock sells. When you do this, then you need adjustable upper arms to get the pinion angle right. Edelbrock makes a good upper with spherical ends frame-side.

If you drop it back to stock height, you might still experience a little bit of hop, but not as bad as it is now. If that still occurs, UMI makes a bolt-in lower arm relocation bracket that would cure it. :)

Cars that are lowered below stock typically do not hop unless your bushings are bad.

I have a set of ladder bars that I took off because I was working on the rear and wanted to sandblast and paint them.

So I'm thinking that I should do bushings and put the ladder bars back on?I wouldn't. :noway: Ladder bars band-aid wheel hop by binding the entire rear suspension up so that the only way the axle can move is through bushing compliance. It will ride like a 1-ton truck, and handle like one too.

Do the bushings, not the ladder bars.

lose the air shocks ......... lower the rear end till the lower control arms are level with the ground ......... replace all bushings with rubber........... presto..... hop should be gone !!

if your real high HP ..... relocation bars like SSM lowers or no hop bars on the top should cure it ...... for the least amount of money :D

If you are really interested in learning about why your car wheel hops I have written a tech manual called "Need More Bite?". Call 662-233-2301 to order. I would be glad to discuss your problems during tech. I make all the right parts to solve your problems but can also educate you as to why you need them. After 30+ years of racing, manufacturing, selling, designing these parts I know the answers.

Dick

If you are really interested in learning about why your car wheel hops I have written a tech manual called "Need More Bite?". Call 662-233-2301 to order. I would be glad to discuss your problems during tech. I make all the right parts to solve your problems but can also educate you as to why you need them. After 30+ years of racing, manufacturing, selling, designing these parts I know the answers.

Dick

No disrespect intended, as I've heard good things about your stuff. But this forum is about sharing information, not selling it....

lose the air shocks ......... lower the rear end till the lower control arms are level with the ground ......... replace all bushings with rubber........... presto..... hop should be gone !!

if your real high HP ..... relocation bars like SSM lowers or no hop bars on the top should cure it ...... for the least amount of money :D


For the ammout of time that I will be beating on the car where I'll have wheel hop it's not worth it to change my whole stance. I love how it sits, it just looks mean with the deep dish cragars in the back and the rake. I'm definately going to replace the bushings, I'm still debating the polyurethane vs. rubber but I'll decide that when I do the bushings.

And the car isn't really high HP, and I doubt it will ever be. On Long Island there's no race tracks so I'll be more than happy to have a 350-400HP street car.

There are lots of opinions on this problem as well as lots of possible solutions. Search the forum and read up, find what suits you best. I think everyone will recommend you replace all worn bushings as a start. I solved my hop with the UMI relocation brackets, but that was just my solution, may not be yours. Also maybe post a picture of your car and suspension to get further advice - but again, read up - lot's of info here. Good luck.

No disrespect intended, as I've heard good things about your stuff. But this forum is about sharing information, not selling it....

I did offer information. If you or anyone else is interested in learning more buy the manual. If not don't. I offered the advice that it was available.

Then I also offered to discuss the problems one on one no charge to any one that calls. Problems like this cannot be discussed throughly without the one on one discussions that can be handeled in a few minutes on the phone. That way I can gather and discuss all the information available including things not posted.

Thank you for the good comments. I am just trying to help out to the best of my ability and being sure the questions are answered correctly from all information necessary. If the original writer wants to post the information that good. I don't have time to write paragraph after paragrapr and still possible give rout the wrong info because all the details weren't discussed.

Thanks

Dick

I had wheel hop troubles after swapping the rear,even with new rubber bushings. We added lakewood no hop bars to my stock suspension set up and the wheel hop went away.

All the major things have been covered new components are key. Next, lower the rear to stock or lower if desired. Also, UCA relocation brackets can help alot. Like others, I'd suggest getting the bushings fixed and go from there.

You can give Dick a call and kiss your paycheck goodbye or just go to the many other retailers and buy their parts which lack the name but retain the quality and function of the key components:thumbsup:

When I first bought my chevelle, it had maybe 300 fwhp and street tires, M20 and big time wheel hop. I put no hop bars on and the wheel hop was gone. It also had air shocks when I first bought it, but I can't remember if I got rid of those before or after the no hop bars.

But they are a more of a pain to put on, since you have to drill the webbing of the rear end housing.

Check to see what difference the ride height makes before you do anything else. IMO.

My 70ss has station wagon springs in the rear which raises it about an inch. I had bad wheel hop. I installed Edelbrock No-Hop Bars and the Adjustable Uppers, and the hop went away.

Loose the air shocks,they`re anti performance components. Check the rear springs and bushings,replace as necessary. If the air shocks are holding the car up that`s bad juju. Raising the rear of the car effects the geometry baddly. You may think it`s cool but the car doesn`t. Raising the rear of the car 1" reduces anti squat by around 23% (a lot!) and increases the forward length of the instant center by around 20 times it`s normal length. Raising the car more than 1" can reverse it and put the IC behind the axle! The only way to easily correct that is a set of no hop bars. They`ll more than correct the anti squat and IC length (and height) but they`ll compromise handling.

Dick,it`s nice to see you here. I know you have a lot of good info to offer for the drag racing guys.
There are some protocols here though. Manufacturers and vendors can answer questions about their products if asked but it`s bad form to say "Hey guys I have this product for sale for $29.95. Buy it here!" unless you are a paying sponsor and site supporter. Many sites won`t even let you answer questions about your products unless you`re a paying sponsor. This site has a very friendly family like atmosphere so folks are pretty used to vendors and such freely giving tech on the site for everyones benefit. Some things are best discussed on the phone of course but then the rest of the people on the site don`t benefit from the knowledge. Mark SC&C

new here !! i have a 72 ss 402 m22 411s.(twisted the tube in the rear) that also has bad bad wheel hop. i have the bars that bolt on to the lower control arm it still hops. time to redo the bushings huh.
whats this long island chevells? i am on LI also.