I`ve used Snap-On Thunder bits and didn`t care for them. The Matco guy talked me into a set of Irwin bits with some special tip and I don`t like them. I know I`m going to sped about $200 or so but I`m not made of money so I only want to buy 1 more set. Every tool guy says they have the best ones but we all know how that goes. I`m going to buy from one of my tool guys. We have Cornwell, Mac, Matco and Snap On.

Nuts to that! I wish I could afford to buy from those guys, they put their advertising dollars enough towards the races (isn't that what we all watch these days?).
I would look at some mail-order houses that sell good quality abrasives & tooling, such as ENCO. They have a website to look over, www.use-enco.com (http://www.use-enco.com). I really have not ordered from them myself, we just get a lot of their catalogs here at work & I look them over once-in-a-while, sometimes that have good deals on tooling that I drool for, like a bandsaw that doesn't scream from 'Northern' or 'HF.'

I don't want to sound like a smart alec, so don't take this the wrong way.

You probably don't need to buy expensive drill bits, an average price drill bit will last a long time.

So, just a suggestion, see if you can find a machinist/tool and die maker or somebody that really knows how to sharpen a drill bit.

I would bet in around an hour he could teach you how to sharpen one, then every once in a while sharpen one for practice, once you have it down you will never forget how to do it.

Working after hours and on the weekend and not knowing how to sharpen one, no place to get a new one has taken a few guys out of the program.

I guess I could also mention, if you can find somebody that works in a machine shop, ask him if he could get you some drill bits, like pay him up front, you will get the good ones for sure.

Anyway, its easy to learn.

Rob

Snap-on are the best I've used.

When buying twist drills buying USA brands is important because of better quality. Cleveland twist, greenfield, precision twist, union butterfield are to name a few. I would not buy drills from snap on because they are going to probably be one of the above names marked up over a hundred percent.

Anything Butterfield is excellent. Don't run the drill too fast. Heat is a killer. Use good coolant/lubricant. Alcohol works well on aluminum. Just a side note, when buying taps, get the two flute type. They are for hand tapping, which most of us will be doing. The three and four flute are more fragile.

Thanks for the responce guys. I do have a drill bit sharpener and it works great but I always end up having to sharpen them before use and while that doesn`t seem like a big deal, when your a mechanic for a living time is everything. I`ve borrowed Mac bits before and they seemed to work good but I don`t know. I don`t mind buying from the trucks because I feel they are better quality than anything I can get in the store plus it helps me out at the end of the year. Keep the replies coming.

I've had a lot of luck with dewalt and Milwaukee drill bits; they seem to last forever.

if you have a Machinist freind .......... not only ask him what drills to buy ....

get him to advise you on the PROPER use of them ..... most people start off way to fast & Dry

hardening the steel plate or what ever they're trying to drill ;)

its not always the tools fault ........... :D

if you have a Machinist freind .......... not only ask him what drills to buy ....

get him to advise you on the PROPER use of them ..... most people start off way to fast & Dry

hardening the steel plate or what ever they're trying to drill ;)

its not always the tools fault ........... :D

That's true, I killed many good bits before I learned my lesson. Using the highest speed, no cooling/lubrication and leaning on the drill until it smokes and throws blue and purple chips is not the correct way... :D

Anthony,
If you are having to sharpen them before you use them, then you are doing something wrong. Even the cheap Home Depot bit will work great the first time. I have tried just about every brand possible in the last 20 or so years and to be honest with you, the medium quality ones at Home Depot ( I usually get Dewalt) combined with a Drill Doctor sharpener is all I need. The ones off the tool truck get dull just as quick and need sharpening, so why waste a bunch of money on them ? The only bits I get from my Snap On truck is the reverse ones.
Most automotive drilling involves one of two things:
1. Broken exhaust manifold bolts that have been "heat treated" in use and darn near impossible to drill :) and,

2. Cast iron, which is a very abrasive material and is heck on drill bits.

Every one else has made good points. Make sure you drill very slow. Use a drilling and tapping spray (not oil, you dont really want to "lubricate" a drill bit) CRC has a spray can of a foam type cutting lube that works real good, most electrical supply houses have it.

I have a full set of Snap-On cobalt drill bits and they work well but I don't use them much anymore. I bought a set of no name "titanium coated" drill bits from Home Depot and they work just as good as the Snap-Ons. When they rarely get dull I just Drill-Doctor them and they're good as new. Don't waste your money on Snap-Ons, just get a good set at Home Depot.
Mike

Anthony,
If you are having to sharpen them before you use them, then you are doing something wrong. Even the cheap Home Depot bit will work great the first time. I have tried just about every brand possible in the last 20 or so years and to be honest with you, the medium quality ones at Home Depot ( I usually get Dewalt) combined with a Drill Doctor sharpener is all I need. The ones off the tool truck get dull just as quick and need sharpening, so why waste a bunch of money on them ? The only bits I get from my Snap On truck is the reverse ones.
Most automotive drilling involves one of two things:
1. Broken exhaust manifold bolts that have been "heat treated" in use and darn near impossible to drill :) and,

2. Cast iron, which is a very abrasive material and is heck on drill bits.

Every one else has made good points. Make sure you drill very slow. Use a drilling and tapping spray (not oil, you dont really want to "lubricate" a drill bit) CRC has a spray can of a foam type cutting lube that works real good, most electrical supply houses have it.


Bill, they worked great froa long time when they were new but now several years later they need to be resharpned more now then ever but it depends on what I`m drilling. Aluminum is pretty easy but sometimes I have to drill steel and they just make a little divit in the top and heat up fast and thats with using oil. I do have a drill doctor but it won`t work on my Irwin bits because of the type of point they have. The tool guy will warrant them but I want something better. I also think I need to get a different drill. My Snap on air drill spins pretty fast so I usually use my cordless but it sucks the battery down. I try to use a drill press as often as possible but that doesn`t work out. I`ll go check out the sets at Home Depot before spending a ton of money on the trucks.

Its not the brand of drill bits used. Its the material they are made of how they are used and maintained. I'm a Former Manual and CNC machinist. We used Enco, and Greenlee products mainly. Most of the shop drill bits were (HSS) High speed steel only. Some of the higher volume jobs we used Tin coated (HSS) end mills, drills,and reamers. You can buy a decent set of HSS or Colbalt drill bits from just about anywhere. Yes even discount tool places carry decent drill bits. The thing to invest in is a way to sharpen and maintain the bits yourself. I suggest a Drill Doctor. Depending on the size of drill bits and material type you plan to use you may have to step up to one of thier nicer more pricey models. They are fairly easy to use and put a pretty decent edge and tip on your drill bits. What you don't spend on drill bits you likely spend on the Drill doctor. In fact you can probably save the drill bits you already own. At the machine shop we often were able to get several years use out of drill bits.

2nd the Drill Doctor. I've been using the same "hardware store" black oxide HSS drill bits for years.... just keep re-sharpening them.

The key to bit life is proper cutting speed, feed pressure, and lubrication (if needed) for the material being cut.

I bought a set of Makita's that are the best I've ever had. I have had them 8 or 10 years, and although a couple could use sharpening, I have yet to do that to any of them.

I bought a set on ebay a while back, I dont remember the brand but they are some kick as$ bits. There High Speed steel with Gold Nitro-Carburized Finish. They have a black flute too.

Ive used the snot out of these, and they still cut like brand new. Ive been drilling 1/8-1/2" steel.

Here's a set on mcmaster.com just search for 30155A59

Learn how to use a Drill Doctor and buy a decent set of bits and you won't need to buy bits again. I bought a set of Hitatchi bits (Green) from Lowes or Home Depot. That set with a Drill doctor have lasted several years now. Nothing worse than a dull bit. the D.D. makes it like a new bit every time.

As I`ve said before, I do have a drill doctor and I do know how to use it. i`m a mechanic by trade so I think I have a pretty good handle on how to sharpen a drill bit and how to use it. I just wanted opinions on what bits you guys like.

We get bits from Lawson at work, they do good until people smoke 'em. Lots of stainless and aluminum drilling, and some heavy steel too. I keep a full set in a case for myself, and rarely need to replace one. If it's too small to sharpen on the bench grinder, I don't bother. That would be under 1/4" or so.

In the tool and die shop we sharpened all of our drill bits on a bench grinder, all the way down to the tiny ones, 1/4'' would be a good sized drill bit.

I really like mine. They are from Drill Bit City, Winnebago, MN.
wintersdrillbitcity.com

With stainless you need lots of coolant to keep things cool. You need a slow rpm and keep the drill cutting. Rub the surface and it is just going to work harden and give you grief getting through that hard surface that you have just created. It just takes a little practice with different metals to see what works best.

I use cobalt drills by Cleveland Twist and Hertel in sizes from #57 to 3/8" for 90% of the drilling in the shop. Which consists of drilling 6AL-4V Titanium, 5160, 1084, 15N20 and S30V - S90V stainless with up to 10% vanadium in it. I use M.A. Ford carbide for rest. I get them from J&L Industrial, Enco and MSC Direct depending on which one is running a sale, even though MSC owns them all prices vary allot. I worked 20 years as a heavy equipment mechanic and am a die hard Snap On user but you can get a lot better bits and taps from these suppliers at a better price.
Just my $.02.
John