i need to disassemble the 12 bolt to get it narrowed. since i will be rebuilding with all the same parts, how hard will it be for me to do? i would think the backlash and preloads would be the same, but is there something im missing? as long as the shims go in the same spots and everything is retorqued, will there be an issue?

thanks, Tim

you should be pretty close-are you talking about new bearings only? the main thing will be the pinion bearing preload for new bearings, and a new crush sleeve
the case shims will prob stay the same, might be a tad harder to install because of new bearings

i dont even know about new bearings. everything has about 5000 miles on it. i only need to get it apart so they can put it in their jig. so it just needs to come apart and then go back together with all the same parts.

anybody else?

thanks, Tim

I am no expert, but have rebuilt two 10 bolt axles.

IMO, If you are just taking apart and re-installing with no other changes, I would replace the crush sleeve, pinion nut and seal. Crushing the new sleeve is a bugger, you will need a heavy duty breaker bar, and an inch-pound torque wrench to measure preload. This is what I would do, experts may have different opinions.

You could possibly get by with the old crush sleeve, but you risk having too much or too little pinion bearing preload. I suppose you could check the preload before you take it apart and then match that when assembling.

Your just narrowing at the axle ends ?
Changing the axle ends for a Ford type or leaving it a c-clip rear ?
If your just cutting at the tube ends ,you may not need to disassemble the pinion gear at all.

when i talked to currie, they mentioned that it would need to be disassembled so they could straighten the tubes and then weld on the new 9" big ends. they only want 125 to set it back up, but if i can save it i will.

when i changed the pinion yoke, dennys told me to just use a standard 1/2" drive socket wrench and tighten it till "my eyes bugged out". they said that i couldnt change the preload with this length wrench and that it would still be enough.

i guess i need to look at a diagram, but if im thinking about it correctly, all i need to do is remove the c clips, take the 4 bolts out of the caps that hold the carrier (2 each side), and then take off the pinion nut. everything then should come out. correct?

thanks, Tim

You may or may not be fine with your approach.

I tightened the pinion nut until I had the proper preload spec. A 1/2 inch breaker bar is not enough, I had to use a 4 foot cheater pipe on mine. I figure the specs are there for a reason, perhaps I am anal, but I did everything by the book.

ss - i wasnt using a new crush sleeve so thats why the short wrench worked. i was just taking it back to its original preload. new crush sleeves require somewhere around 300 ftlbs.

ill have to call them back and see if i can leave the pinion gear alone. if i just have to take out the carrier it will be much easier.

thanks, Tim

ss - i wasnt using a new crush sleeve so thats why the short wrench worked. i was just taking it back to its original preload. new crush sleeves require somewhere around 300 ftlbs.

ill have to call them back and see if i can leave the pinion gear alone. if i just have to take out the carrier it will be much easier.

thanks, Tim


Tim,


How did this work out for you?

still havent recontacted currie yet about the "leaving the pinion in" issue. i have however changed the pinion seal and yoke by using the above method. there appears to be no abnormal wear to the gears after about 12k miles.