Going to check out an engine of a friend's that he might sell, a 454. Complete less carb and headers (which is fine since I'm going to use a diff. carb and his headers were more for his '68 Camaro), for $500-$600 (he's undecided). I think it will be a pretty good deal, hinging on the heads, which I'll find out what they are. One thing though is that he was hearing rod knock at low RPM. They then pulled the motor shortly thereafter, so it was running when pulled, technically. I am going to pull oil pan. What should I look for? What things typically have to be done to fix a rod knock so the rod doesn't throw or whatever, causing whatever kind of damage? Thanks.

A rod knocking means that the rod's crank journal and bearing shells are worn out!

Depending how bad itis worn, you may get by with grinding the crank down and installing undersized bearings and just rebuilding the rods and at the same time installing better rod bolts.

I have read somewhere that you can buy bearings for the BB as undersized as .100"!! This tells me that the cranks are strong as all get-out!!

May I suggest just boring it .060" over and buying a 4.25" stroker crank and a set of 1/4" longer rods and needed new stroker pistons and making a 496" motor out of her.

You will need to machine AND balance the crank anyway, plus rebuild cost on your rods and new rod bolts and if it has a good ridge around the cylinder tops, probably pistons!!

So why not make her a 496???

Just food for thought......

pdq67

Pdq,

While you are here - I know you did a 496 recently. What crank, rods & pistons did you use? Also, I remember you saying that you would do it over again with 6.385 rods. How much was involved?

GRN69CHVL, Speed-O-Motive has a 496 rotating assembly with the 6.385 rods and forged pistons for $1195. I went that route on my engine because it wasn't much more than re-using my parts and a good forged piston. I'll post results after I resolve an oil pan interference issue.

I think I might have bought Lunati's last welded 1/4", 454 crank but may be wrong..

Anyway, I didn't hear the guy say to use 1/4" longer rods when I got it so I had to take it back to them so they could cam-cut it and then heavi-metal balance it after a Machine Shop took my money AND balanced it knowing, (I suspect), full well she would lock up using my rebuilt truck rods!!

I say this b/c the Son did the talking and his Master Machinist Dad did the work.

AND I can't imagine the old man not knowing it wouldn't lock up especially after I saw where one of the piston rod assembly's had been touched at the point of lock up when SOMEBODY mocked it up!!!

B/c I put my own motor together!!

All in all, I was out just about what a set of custom rods would have cost back then so I am happy, but now I know I can build another motor quite a bit cheaper now that I know what to look for..

pdq67

Take a real good look at the bottom end. A knock in not a good thing and if it is a main and the bearing has turned the whole thing can be junk. If it's a rod and the crank can be saved you still need to get the rod fixed or a new one. Personally I would be very cautious of anything with a lower end knock.